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  1. #1
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    Choosing the right LHT size whithout being able to try it

    Hi all, I know itīs been discussed a lot, but I just want to be sure, before I finally by the LHT frame. Itīs just about having the right size for me. Here in Germany almost no bikeshop has this bike for testing. I only know one in Berlin, which is too far away from here to just go there to ride a bike. So I have to stick to advices and so, because I cannot ride it before.
    Here are some of my data I typed into this Competitive Cyclist Fit Calc...

    I have been reading a lot in forums like this and also somebody from the only shop here I know recommends a 58cm frame, because the standover height is 83 cm and there is enough space to maneuver it whith heavy load. I am just a bit unsure, whether it might be too small. But on the other side I have read, that one should rather take the smaller size if he is unsure. Also somebody here wrote that Surly recommends a frame that is 2 sizes (or cm) smaller than the road bike (which I donīt have yet).

    The bike is supposed to be used everywhere, for commuting but also long touring. I am a student and want to do a long journey after my graduation this summer, probably through Africa or Asia. I donīt know yet exactly.

    So, if anybody could help me, I would be very grateful !

    Cheers
    Last edited by flameingo; 07-16-11 at 10:11 AM. Reason: grammatical mistakes

  2. #2
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    there are other bikes in shops you can try out for size, take note of the measurements..
    straddle them go ride around the block.

    Surly , A QBP brand name , is not so special , its just another conventional bike .
    for sizing purposes..

    though the fit charts with a racing bike seller are going to be assuming you are racing..

    you may want the bars higher and closer, thats a steerer length[fork]
    and stem extension, parts choice.
    size = center of BB axis to top of seat tube, if a tube extends above the centerline of the
    top tube, that has to be considered..
    they ship the Surlys direct from Taiwan to Europe,
    or do they have to go thru the Minnesota warehouse first?

    I have A Koga Miyata, World tour, you can order those almost custom.. thru NL facility
    see signature line at Koga.com

    and they include racks and mud guards and everything ,
    including kickstands, 2 of them, one under the front rack is great!
    sent to your nearest Koga dealer, in Germany.
    just about everywhere But the US.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 06-07-11 at 10:37 AM.

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Those top tube recommendations look bizarre! I was going to recommend picking the top tube length they recommend, going to Surly's geometry chart (http://www.surlybikes.com/frames/lon...trucker_frame/) and selecting a bike that way, but that puts you on a 46cm frame - which would be right for someone about 5'5" not 6'2".

    Are you sure you measured your inputs right?
    ...

  5. #5
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    Well, I thin the body height and inseam are most important, also because I measured everything alone so there might be some mistakes. Anyway, the LHT is the one I want, besides the MTB Cycletech Papalagi - do you know that over there ? It is a dream, but too expensive for me as I am still a student and so. But later I will buy that !
    So, I think it must be 58 or 60...

    Oh, what I forgot to say is, that it is going to be a 26"-wheel-frame. Very important
    Last edited by flameingo; 06-06-11 at 01:30 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Hairy Hands's Avatar
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    This is what I would do. Measure your current bike from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your seat. Subtract 2 inches from that measurement and then match it to the LHT seat tube. For touring or randoneering you will like the seat and handlebars to be as close to level as possible. If you normally ride a 58cm frame you will probably want a 61 or 62cm frame. Who cares about standover height above the top tube. No one I know ever gets off the bike and straddles the top tube.
    ~John~

  7. #7
    Senior Member Doug64's Avatar
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    I am 183 cm tall and have an 88 inseam. I ride a 58 cm LHT, which fits relatively well. It seems like you might be right on the border between a 58 and 60. I ride it with only about 11 cm of seatpost showing ( another 2-3 cm would not be too much) and with a 90mm stem. I suspect that you might do OK with a 58 and a 100-110 stem. Again it depends on your riding style. If you order one tell them not to cut the steerer tube. That way you can fine tune the fit and get it cut later. I built my bike about a year ago , and still have not got around to cutting about 2 extra cm off the steerer tube.


  8. #8
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    The thing is, with the smaller one, I might sit higher and lean more forward at the end. But with the 60 I might have to stretch out too much. Both things would bother me. I donīt want to have to stretch and it shouldnīt put too much pressure on my hands and so. So both could contribute to a too sportive position but for opposite reasons.

    Sitting with a 45° angle would be good, also if the bar and seat have the same height I think and if the angle between arms and torso is not more than 90° bending the arms slightly.

    Hmm, it would all be so much easyer to try one if there only was one around here.
    Last edited by flameingo; 06-07-11 at 02:47 AM.

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    Like Doug64, I'm 183cm tall but I have long arms and legs for my height (90.5 inseam and 190.5 wingspan). I also have a 58cm LHT and fitted the stem and bars for a 45° torso angle and 90° shoulder angle. I ended up with a 120mm stem with the bar 1cm below the saddle (pic here). Given that you're taller and presumably have longer arms, a 60cm would be a better fit, I think.

  10. #10
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Stems can be changed, if top tube is too long ,
    get the stem shorter by that amount.

    Point of sale would give you trade in value towards the better sized one,
    but if not buying in person , just buy the second stem..



    I have a second stem under my bars, for the bar bag .

    best if fork steerer is not pre cut, too short.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 06-07-11 at 10:44 AM.

  11. #11
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    Based on my experience, I am thinking 60 cm for you. I am 188cm tall but have a relatively short inseem of about 84cm. I ride a 60cm LHT. I don't have that much standover clearence, but enough to get by (at least 1", but probably not 2"). The rest of the bike fits me quite well "up top." It provides the more relaxed position I like when touring.

  12. #12
    Twincities MN kuan's Avatar
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    The bigger the bicycle the shorter the top tube. (comparatively speaking) At 60cm the top tube on a LHT is the same as the seat tube. Just seems to me that if all humans were roughly the same basic proportions that you would not be too stretched out.

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    Well, I have to correct my size a bit ! I measured my PBH again and it came out to be 95 cm actually and my heigt is still 187/188. So, well, what do you think ? Sorry I made a mistake earlier !

    Cheers

  14. #14
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    You could make a cardboard frame replica layout,
    from BB height and frame size, seat tube angle etc,
    , and try that on, for standover eh?.

    You do understand what is measured in the numbers?
    Last edited by fietsbob; 07-17-11 at 09:00 AM.

  15. #15
    ghost on a machine Bike Hermit's Avatar
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    I've sold dozens of LHT's. For what it's worth I've written a series of articles about touring bike size and fit. The Competitive Cyclist website fit tool is entertaining and it might be useful, but those are some crazy geometries. You would need a custom bike to get those seat tube/top tube combinations. The given saddle heights for your initial pbh measurement are in the ballpark though.
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    So, given that your torso is a lot larger than mine, wouldnīt the top tube then just be too long for me ? I assume, that it would be easyer to adjust everything properly on the 58 frame. The best would be 59 I believe, so I just have to decide for the bigger or smaller one. Here are some pictures of the 60 I just ordered. I am thinking about changing it for the 58 though.

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    I also added some fotos of me on the bike. Sure, the stem should be longer and lower. Do you think the 58 would be too small at all ? Somehow I hate when there is too little seatpost, which is not yet the case here. I mean, just for looking at. But the seat shouldnīt be lower here, neither higher.
    What do you think ?

  18. #18
    ghost on a machine Bike Hermit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flameingo View Post
    I also added some fotos of me on the bike. Sure, the stem should be longer and lower. Do you think the 58 would be too small at all ? Somehow I hate when there is too little seatpost, which is not yet the case here. I mean, just for looking at. But the seat shouldnīt be lower here, neither higher.
    What do you think ?
    The 60 is too small for you. Get the 62 if you are going to swap. Way too much seatpost showing and too many headset spacers. Just sayin'.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Hermit View Post
    The 60 is too small for you. Get the 62 if you are going to swap. Way too much seatpost showing and too many headset spacers. Just sayin'.
    That's not a problem though. What is important, is the top tube length (including stem). Modern mountainbikes often have much more seatpost showing, apparantly they're strong enough these days...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Hermit View Post
    The 60 is too small for you. Get the 62 if you are going to swap. Way too much seatpost showing and too many headset spacers. Just sayin'.
    I agree, based on the first picture. A 62 would give Flameingo 20mm more seat tube, 21mm more head tube and only 10mm more top tube. Get a similar stem that's 10mm shorter to go with the 62cm LHT.

    http://www.surlybikes.com/frames/lon...trucker_frame/

  21. #21
    ghost on a machine Bike Hermit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lasse View Post
    That's not a problem though. What is important, is the top tube length (including stem). Modern mountainbikes often have much more seatpost showing, apparantly they're strong enough these days...
    Most modern mountain bikes also have a "compact" geometry...much shorter seat tube relative to top tube, for better clearance and standover with the higher bottom bracket. And because it's easier to fit more people with fewer sizes they can keep their costs down. The need to raise the top of the saddle much more than 20 cm or so above the top of the top tube on a Long Haul Trucker means the top tube will be too short too unless the rider has extremely long legs relative to their torso/arms.
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  22. #22
    Wrench Savant balindamood's Avatar
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    FWIW, I am 5-10, and rode an '85 Lotus 58 cm touring bike for years, and generally like larger frames. I felt most comfortable on a 56 cm LHT, though I did not buy it. This seems consistant with the "regular frame -2cm" statement.
    "Where you come from is gone;
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