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  1. #1
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    Pannier rack recomend?

    I'm trying to build up this guy with pannier racks but the brake line is blocking the eyelet. Anyone have suggestions on workaround or rack that would fit?
    040.jpg

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    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Bruce Gordon , Best, Tubus 2nd Best. both lifetime quality , steel tube.

    I see seat stay brake bosses , and the struts can be modified
    to go around the cable.

    Tubus also makes a few center strut mounted types..
    to use the bolt that holds the brake on,
    maybe adding a Sheldon's nut, to a recessed nut type brake.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 03-19-12 at 02:15 PM.

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    The rack strut fixes to the outside of the tube. If you need to move it further out, just add some washers or spacers. Most racks can fit to that kind of situation with no modification. Look for a rack where the 2 struts connect to the rack quite far apart.

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    Cool, thanks for advice. What are "seat-stay break bosses"?

    I looked at this one: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/tubus_racks.asp#Luna
    .. looks like it can loop around the cable; I'm worried the mount will impede the cable.

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    The hole where your rear brake attaches to the frame is what I think fietsbob is calling the seat stay brake boss - some racks will mount to a single supporting strut that you can bolt in between the brake and the frame. Those racks will not be as sturdy or hold as much as a more traditional one that attaches directly to the rack mounts.

    How much weight do you plan to carry? If you'll be touring with loaded panniers, the Gordon or Tubus racks would work (or any rack that has adjustable struts for both rack bosses, which is most racks). You just might need to bend the left strut around the brake cable, and possibly use spacers or washers as MichaelW said above to do the attachment to the seat stay. Bending flat aluminum struts (like the ones that come with a Gordon, Jandd, or most racks, really) is easiest (you can just do it by hand), but with a little bit of work you can put the right bend in a Tubus-style round steel strut too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by threecarjam View Post
    The hole where your rear brake attaches to the frame is what I think fietsbob is calling the seat stay brake boss - some racks will mount to a single supporting strut that you can bolt in between the brake and the frame. Those racks will not be as sturdy or hold as much as a more traditional one that attaches directly to the rack mounts.

    How much weight do you plan to carry? If you'll be touring with loaded panniers, the Gordon or Tubus racks would work (or any rack that has adjustable struts for both rack bosses, which is most racks). You just might need to bend the left strut around the brake cable, and possibly use spacers or washers as MichaelW said above to do the attachment to the seat stay. Bending flat aluminum struts (like the ones that come with a Gordon, Jandd, or most racks, really) is easiest (you can just do it by hand), but with a little bit of work you can put the right bend in a Tubus-style round steel strut too.
    That makes sense, thanks. Yeah, I do want to use the eyelet on the frame, I don't want to use clamps or other attach methods because I've found them troublesome in the past. I don't carry a ton of weight on regular basis but occasionally pack upwards of 40lbs. so want the rack to be stable. Those racks are like 200$, so I hate to jerry-rig, like bend attachments, but I guess I could bite lip and just do it. I'm just a little anal and like a clean look on everything!

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    Get a Tubus and use a bench vise and take your time with bending the strut, and you can make it look like the strut was made to fit your particular brake issue.

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    Okay, I put this on hold for a long time but trying again.
    On the Tubus racks, there is rack hardware that is already molded in fashion that goes around the brake caliper.
    See http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/tubus_racks.asp#Luna

    I contacted Tubus to see if they'd sell it seperately but no response. Went to Home Dep., to look for metal that I could fashion as such but nothing doing.

    Anyone have suggestions on getting rack mounts for this rig?

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    Senior Member Doug64's Avatar
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    Look for an older Blackburn Rack like this one.





    This one happens to be on a vintage bike I'm restoring. I have another I use on one of my road bikes that has the same issue as your bike. Stability is not a problem.

    OR

    This is the twin of the above rack that I modified to use on my mountain bike. I welded in the plates so I could use the seat stay eyelets. You could take the Blackburn EX-1 or EX 2 rack @ $45 and have a good welder put a plate in the middle ($10). http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=3536Drill a couple of mounting holes and bend the included hardware to form a bracket. It will look good and be functional. I left the center mount just in case I wanted to use it in another configuration on my road bike. If you don't want to weld, use the existing mounting holes to bolt an 1/8 or 3/16 piece of aluminum plate on and drill mounting holes in the center. Paint it flat black, and no one but you will ever know that it was not made that way.



    PS There is not a real good way to bend the mounting rods to clear the brake cable. On my bike it was actually the brake arm. On the Tubus racks you are trying to bend aluminum (the racks are chrome-moly, but the mounting struts are alu) rod into some pretty tight angles. A really well thought out design!
    Last edited by Doug64; 03-12-12 at 04:52 PM.

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    Wallingford bicycles, wallbike.com is having a 30% off sale (this code might work: COCG) on the closeout Ortiebs, tubus and racktime panniers/racks. May be worth yr. while to check them out. Nice guys too.
    Last edited by SFGary; 03-12-12 at 07:54 PM. Reason: spelling error

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    Move the brake to the other side.

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    Senior Member bktourer1's Avatar
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    Take a look at the Jannd "Expedition"

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyLemurBoy View Post
    Move the brake to the other side.
    A la frame builder Harry Havnoonian. His signature was to put the rear brake on backwards.
    "I've wanted you to succeed, but watching you find excuse after excuse after excuse and then laugh it off as the loveable, quirky, chubby guy is getting old."--Ill.Clyde

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    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I have a frame I built in the 70's, the cantilever bosses are brazed on the front
    of the seat stays.

    on the bike in #1 the creative bending of the rack struts
    with the aide of a bench vise. and a pair of pliers , can do much
    that is not immediately obvious..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 03-14-12 at 01:00 AM.

  15. #15
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Move the brake to the other side.
    except crazy madagascar primate dude, the other side is different,
    counter sunk for the brake fixing sleeve nut..

    Ive got a grippy toothy washer to keep my sidepulls centered ..
    it works best with a surface adequate to chew on.

    For the OP, center strut on the rack, then a Sheldon's brake nut on the frame,
    they are double-threaded, 1st you hold the brake on, tightening it.
    second bolt will hold the rack strut on .
    Last edited by fietsbob; 03-14-12 at 12:57 AM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    except crazy madagascar primate dude, the other side is different,
    counter sunk for the brake fixing sleeve nut..

    For the OP, center strut on the rack, then a Sheldon's brake nut on the frame,
    they are double-threaded, 1st you hold the brake on, tightening it.
    second bolt will hold the rack strut on .
    :] I am crazy about lemurs!

    Anyways, it looked like the brake boss was an older style that has the symmetrical hole and nutted retention. It is still possible to flip it even with the newer style brake bosses. To me, that would be the simplest workaround. I did the same thing to my friends Masi Commuter frame.

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    Problem Solvers solves problems. This might work if your frame uses a clamp instead of a binder bolt.

    Problem Solvers seat clamp with rack mounts

    Last edited by aggiegrads; 03-13-12 at 10:41 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyLemurBoy View Post
    Move the brake to the other side.

    Hey, cool, thanks ... this is why I like BF, everyone comes up with something different!

    Moving brake to opposite side is clever notion ... have you tried this? I'm no engineer but I presume there's no change in performance?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideNoCO View Post
    Hey, cool, thanks ... this is why I like BF, everyone comes up with something different!

    Moving brake to opposite side is clever notion ... have you tried this? I'm no engineer but I presume there's no change in performance?
    If it is any comfort, I am an engineer! You will need to flip the pads around, but your front brake is mounted in the exact same way, relatively speaking. You will notice no difference.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyLemurBoy View Post
    If it is any comfort, I am an engineer! You will need to flip the pads around, but your front brake is mounted in the exact same way, relatively speaking. You will notice no difference.
    most likely this is the best solution. you might have difficulty routing the housing and/or mounting the caliper, but it is definitely worth looking at and it don't cost 'nuthin.

    afterall, my late '80's Stumpjumper (granted, an evil MTB) has a U-brake, mounted underneath the CHAINSTAYS, for crying out loud.

  21. #21
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Here is a rack from Tubus that uses a single strut, that will mount to the brake bridge bolt : http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tubus-fly...ack-prod12968/

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    Well, I ended up taking the easy road, mounted to the brake, it's not as strong or stable as I'd have liked, but seems like it'll hold.
    I was a little worried about the brake caliper "moving" - there was a grooved washer that I removed, so there's potential to slip. I'll ride this for a while and if it doesn't work, I'm going to turn the caliper around to other side, as discussed above. Thanks all for great input!

    IMG-20120423-00437.jpg

    IMG-20120423-00439.jpg

  23. #23
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    Tortek Expedition rack has curved stays that can be rotated and mounted in either direction. They might work. Here's a photo.
    Tortek stays.jpg
    Be the person your dog thinks you are.
    T.J.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ciufalon View Post
    Tortek Expedition rack has curved stays that can be rotated and mounted in either direction. They might work. Here's a photo.
    Tortek stays.jpg
    Hey, yes, that was exactly what I was looking for, but couldn't find. The Tortec models online are all out of Europe and I live in US (didn't want to mess with overseas ordering). I was hoping to just buy the curved stays somewhere nearby, but couldn't find them anywhere. I even tried to make some, but after plunking around with sheet metal, they looked really ugly and I'm a fashion slave.

    If you know a place to just order those, let me know. Or if you want to sell me yours ...

  25. #25
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    Well I did order mine from Great Britain. I ordered two at the time and shipping for both was just $15. I don't remember if this is where I ordered from, but they have the silver ones like mine on sale here for $40. The racks have 35 kgs load capacity and they have been serving me well for three or four years now. When I ordered mine, I just called the store in GB using Skype and ordered with a credit card, but the store I linked to takes PayPal as well. The platform is 5.25" wide and 15" long. Hope this helps. They are very nice racks for the price.
    Be the person your dog thinks you are.
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