Nashbar Steel Touring Bike?
#26
we be rollin'
What is a chain minder? So, I guess if you want to change from 30 to 26 you have to take out the crank arm? Could you get away with just taking off the chainrings and sliding them off with the crank still on (and pedal out)?
#27
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Most triples you can get the two bigger rings off without pulling the crank but the granny will require pulling the crank. The puller tool you can get at most bike shops for around 10 to 15 bucks.
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I learned about a particular chain minder from this forum, and I don't know how other brands work, but the Jump Stop works well on my setup (22-32-44 chainrings) to prevent the chain from flying off when I shift to the granny chainring. Link is https://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/. The guy even lets you try it out for free to see if it works before you have to send $$$. I'm going to equip other bikes with them too.
I'm sure that other brands work as well.
I'm sure that other brands work as well.
#29
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What is a chain minder?
adjusts to all seat tube sizes.
I have one or the other, on all triples ,
and put one on my single ring Bike Friday too..
jump stop, the clamp is sized , so you order the right one..
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-15-11 at 03:39 PM.
#30
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New Nashbar Steel Touring Bike:
As shipped!
Front derailleur Shimano 105 FD-5703
Rear derailleur Shimano 105 RD-5700-A
Shift/Brake Levers Shimano 105 ST-5703
Brake Levers Tektro RL-570
Crank FSA Vero 50-39-30 CK-602 Triple
Cassette SRAM 11-28 PG-1050 (10 Speed)
Chain KMC DX-10SC??
Brakes Tektro 992A
Tires Kenda 700x32 K197-011
Wheels **********? 36 spoke
Color Gloss Black
$520.00 when they have the 20% Off including bikes!
As shipped!
Front derailleur Shimano 105 FD-5703
Rear derailleur Shimano 105 RD-5700-A
Shift/Brake Levers Shimano 105 ST-5703
Brake Levers Tektro RL-570
Crank FSA Vero 50-39-30 CK-602 Triple
Cassette SRAM 11-28 PG-1050 (10 Speed)
Chain KMC DX-10SC??
Brakes Tektro 992A
Tires Kenda 700x32 K197-011
Wheels **********? 36 spoke
Color Gloss Black
$520.00 when they have the 20% Off including bikes!
Last edited by patgolem; 09-02-11 at 10:10 PM. Reason: Cassette is 11-28
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Looks like a really nice Tourer for the money.
I'd say, "Jump On It!", if it were available!
I'd say, "Jump On It!", if it were available!
#32
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I think the easiest option for changing the gearing would be to grab the deore LX crank that is 89$ at jenson right now and sell the road triple on CL to help ease the cost... otherwise it looks like a nice touring rig for under 800$
#33
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#34
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They`ll be available on the 5th, someone posted that on the first page of this thread I think, or I read it somewhere else.
#35
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They are shipping now!
They also have the sizing chart listed now.
They also have the sizing chart listed now.
Last edited by patgolem; 09-02-11 at 08:59 PM.
#37
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#38
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the idea to switch out the crank for a mtn crank 44/32/22 is a great one. I dont have the knowledge to know if the fd would be ok with it, youèd have to move the fd down on the tube.
Who knows how the headset and wheels are compared to other similarly priced bikes, again, Im not knowledgeable enough, same for the quality of the frame.
stock gearing is too high for true touring, but certainly would be an inexpensive tourer with changes. I guess it comes down to stuff like wheels etc to how the quality of stuff is.
Who knows how the headset and wheels are compared to other similarly priced bikes, again, Im not knowledgeable enough, same for the quality of the frame.
stock gearing is too high for true touring, but certainly would be an inexpensive tourer with changes. I guess it comes down to stuff like wheels etc to how the quality of stuff is.
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Just got done with first tour, 650 miles, 12 days in the mountains of Colorado, 41,000 ft of climbing. Rode it on Windsor Tourist I bought for $599. Just changed front ring, 30, to 26. Rear came with 11/32. Had no problems but was challenging. Maybe could have used lower gearing but managed. You just have to get used to crawling up the mountain passes at 4-5 mph. No problems with the bike and couldn't beat the price. Even the rear rack that came with the bike held up well
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I like the plain black no decals look of the nashbar bike.
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I just ordered this bike. They had the 15% off sale including bikes this weekend and I needed to replace my commuter that got stolen. I built that from scratch with nashbar alloy touring frame and Carbon fiber cx fork with disc tabs. This bike is a great deal and I don't understand why all of you touring purists are ragging on it so much. First of all, do any of you know how much brand new 5700 series brifters retail for? $300. I'm not going to bother running them on this bike. I have a set of 2300 series 8speed brifters that will be going on immediately. I will easily sell those shifters here in NYC on Craigslist to someone that doesn't want to get socked for sales tax and shipping. Anyone could sell the shifters on ebay for $250 and pick up a set of bar ends for $75 and come out $175 ahead which will easily pay for a new crank.
Come february, surly is releasing the LHT with the disc tabs on the fork. I was going to buy another nashbar carbon cx fork with disc tabs for this bike, but I'll just hold out for the new surly frame because the surly frame has lots of other little add ons that this one doesnt. Basically, I think this is actually a very nice introductory touring bike or just a decent low end steel bike for someone.
I'm not going to be doing any major touring in the immediate future but i am going to switch the crank. I'm probably going to split the difference between mtb and road and go with a 48/36/26 which will be fine for me commuting around town with 25 - 30 lbs loaded on the bike but I may just go all the way with a full on MTB crank and just get used to riding on the big ring when I'm not loaded up with anything and then I'll just use a closer ratio 8speed casette.
I'll be sure to report back to everyone when it comes in.
Come february, surly is releasing the LHT with the disc tabs on the fork. I was going to buy another nashbar carbon cx fork with disc tabs for this bike, but I'll just hold out for the new surly frame because the surly frame has lots of other little add ons that this one doesnt. Basically, I think this is actually a very nice introductory touring bike or just a decent low end steel bike for someone.
I'm not going to be doing any major touring in the immediate future but i am going to switch the crank. I'm probably going to split the difference between mtb and road and go with a 48/36/26 which will be fine for me commuting around town with 25 - 30 lbs loaded on the bike but I may just go all the way with a full on MTB crank and just get used to riding on the big ring when I'm not loaded up with anything and then I'll just use a closer ratio 8speed casette.
I'll be sure to report back to everyone when it comes in.
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motobecane69, you make some good points and I for one think you have a good plan and take one the bike. Looking forward to hearing how it all goes. I expect it will go very well and you will have a great commuting bike that will suffice for touring too if you choose to employ it for that purpose.
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motobecane69, you make some good points and I for one think you have a good plan and take one the bike. Looking forward to hearing how it all goes. I expect it will go very well and you will have a great commuting bike that will suffice for touring too if you choose to employ it for that purpose.
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the idea to switch out the crank for a mtn crank 44/32/22 is a great one. I dont have the knowledge to know if the fd would be ok with it, youèd have to move the fd down on the tube.
Who knows how the headset and wheels are compared to other similarly priced bikes, again, Im not knowledgeable enough, same for the quality of the frame.
stock gearing is too high for true touring, but certainly would be an inexpensive tourer with changes. I guess it comes down to stuff like wheels etc to how the quality of stuff is.
Who knows how the headset and wheels are compared to other similarly priced bikes, again, Im not knowledgeable enough, same for the quality of the frame.
stock gearing is too high for true touring, but certainly would be an inexpensive tourer with changes. I guess it comes down to stuff like wheels etc to how the quality of stuff is.
Mike
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I just ordered a cheap square taper 44/32/22 crank that should be plug and play without needing to change the bottom bracket. If I get to the point of doing serious touring away from civilization, I will upgrade to a better quality crank. If you have the right tools and know how, a crank.swap can be done easily in under a half hour. An lbs would probably only charge about 30bucks to remove the old and install the new. I decided to go ahead a.d gear this really low as it will probably really just mean that I end up using the 32/11 a lot around town. I have a high cadence and sheldons calculator shows something lime 37mph at 120rpm in the 44/11 combo so that is plenty of firepower for when I'm not loaded up.
#47
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I just ordered a cheap square taper 44/32/22 crank that should be plug and play without needing to change the bottom bracket. If I get to the point of doing serious touring away from civilization, I will upgrade to a better quality crank. If you have the right tools and know how, a crank.swap can be done easily in under a half hour. An lbs would probably only charge about 30bucks to remove the old and install the new. I decided to go ahead a.d gear this really low as it will probably really just mean that I end up using the 32/11 a lot around town. I have a high cadence and sheldons calculator shows something lime 37mph at 120rpm in the 44/11 combo so that is plenty of firepower for when I'm not loaded up.
There is also the argument that out in whatever country, square taper bbs will be found, while more modern external bearing ones might be harder to get.
As for your gearing, again my mtn bikecommuter has pretty much the same gearing, and it perfectly workeable for the speeds that we go at, plus the bonus of the 22 granny being quite flexible for weight on bke plus steep steep hills (even with the 11-28 cassette I have on it)
Yes, I use the 32/11 often, and while I shift up to the 42 regularly, I dont feel I am constantly going back and forth.
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external ball bearing BB's are awesome. I'm thoroughly convinced that touring guys and C&V guys are just a bunch of grumpy old men that like to ***** about things. guys that race road bikes put way more stress on cranks than a guy on a touring rig does, yet touring guys are always worried about stuff breaking on them. in my opinon, crank changes are one of the easiest things to do on a bike, they just seem difficult because there aren't any standards. When you work on a car you pretty much know you either need a set of regular SAE wrenches or you need a set of metric tools. There aren't that many item specific tools. On bikes you can have 4 different cranks and 4 different ways/tools to remove them but as long as you have the proper tools, it's very easy to do. some people complain about cartridge unit square taper and bottom brackets and how their old cup and cone systems lasted 20 years while their cartridge units don't last nearly as long. A cartridge unit is a whopping $30 and takes 15 minutes to swap out! If I have to change it once a year I'm fine with it. In this day and age of smartphones, you can get any bike part you need in one day if you need it bad enough. Simply find an address to ship it to, go online and pay for it and have it overnighted if push comes to shove.
#49
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external ball bearing BB's are awesome. I'm thoroughly convinced that touring guys and C&V guys are just a bunch of grumpy old men that like to ***** about things. guys that race road bikes put way more stress on cranks than a guy on a touring rig does, yet touring guys are always worried about stuff breaking on them.
None of the family bikes have externals yet, so I guess I'll learn when I get one, from what I understand all you need are allen keys--fine with me. Given how long my drivetrain stuff lasts anyway (Im not knee deep in mud and such as mtn bikers can be, plus I'm not a big beefy guy, plus I dont do a ton of mileage) I dont really care about what BB I have, as long as it isnt the cup and cone ones, and whatever works well, is easy to work on and is readily available, thats fine with me.