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  1. #1
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    Rebuild a '93 C'dale T700 or go new

    I'm debating whether to rebuild the frame I have today or go with a completely new bike and would love some opinions. The bike would be used for light to medium weight touring and medium speed randonneuring.

    What I'm riding today (original owner):
    Stock 1993 Cannondale T700
    Shimano RX100 cranks, 30/42/52 chainrings
    Shimano Hyperglide 13-30 7-spd
    Deore LX Derailleurs, bottom bracket, bar end shifters, hubs
    Dia-Compe cantis and levers
    Ritchey Vantage Cross Rims with 35c Vittoria Randonneur Pro tires
    Frame is in good shape, a few nicks and scratches but no dents or visible corrosion (but who knows what's really going on inside the tubes)

    I have done a full cleaning and regreasing of components each year (including repacking the bearings) but they are really past the end of their useful life. If I were to rebuild the bike it would be a complete strip down, upgrading all components. Probably Ultegra components with a Schmidt dyno front hub and Velocity Dyad rims, drop the tire size to 32c at the most so I have clearance to mount fenders. A higher stem so I can raise the handlebars a little more (they're almost 4" below the seat now which is a little more drop than I'd like as I get older).

    There's some nostalgia here as well, the bike has been on numerous tours internationally and domestically so I have a real attachment. With my desire to do more long distance riding and a little less solo touring (our girls are getting old enough to tour with us on tandems) I'm looking at potential alternatives.

    The alternative, of course, is to go for a new frame, possibly a custom from Independent Fabricators or elsewhere, that would sit between the geometry of a touring bike and traditional road bike. The C'dale tracks really well but can be tough to lean into a quick turn over 40mph. Dropping the weight might be nice also, with rear rack and pedals I'm pushing 28 lbs. There is also some attraction to moving away from canti brakes to either long reach calipers or discs depending on whether I want to run greater than 28c tires.

    I personally don't find the Al frame to be particularly harsh, even on long rides, so going to steel won't necessarily make a big difference to me. Money IS an issue. I don't mind spending where it makes sense but if I can get the C'dale to be lively enough for my taste (subjective, I know) then it might be nice to do the rebuild. So, any thoughts?

  2. #2
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    money is an issue but you want something else and you're thinking of a $2300 frame that will give you a lighter bike than 27lbs with fenders , rack, and Schmidt dyno.

    ok.

    Get a new bike for under $2k and be willing to strip racks off and have an extra set of light wheels for unladen riding.

  3. #3
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
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    Cannondale was one of the last production bikes to make in the U.S. Built just a few hours drive from here. You have a classic not to mention a true friend. I would rebuild.
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  4. #4
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    #1, its a touring bike, do you want a race bike instead now?

    Rebuild suggestions : new parts.. Shimano K cluster 7 speed,
    13-34t you don't need more 'speeds'..
    new cartridge BB, , perhaps new chainrings, 48/36 24t, or 50/38/24
    or another 52 42, and a 26t.

    New brake pads. kool stop .. salmon colored compound .

    You can add a stem riser quill/ tube type to get the bars up...

    Schmidt or Shimano dyno-hub is a good idea, I like the battery free lighting.

    shimmy could be flexible racks and how the load in the bags is packed.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 08-15-11 at 09:20 PM.

  5. #5
    __________ seeker333's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QueueCT View Post
    The C'dale tracks really well but can be tough to lean into a quick turn over 40mph.
    I have that problem all the time too.

    Plus, I get some shimmy when I go over 60mph on descents with more than 80 lbs loaded.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by seeker333 View Post
    I have that problem all the time too.

    Plus, I get some shimmy when I go over 60mph on descents with more than 80 lbs loaded.
    Yep, that shimmy doesn't bother me so much, but my buddy riding on the handlebars gets a little ancy when we hit 60 on the downhills.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    #1, its a touring bike, do you want a race bike instead now?
    I think it's a geometry question . . . do I keep the longer chain stays, shallower head tube angle, etc or go for a frame that's a little more upright for better handling. I don't expect a significant change in components other than, say, caliper or disk rather than cantis.

    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Rebuild suggestions : new parts.. Shimano K cluster 7 speed,
    13-34t you don't need more 'speeds'..
    new cartridge BB, , perhaps new chainrings, 48/36 24t, or 50/38/24
    or another 52 42, and a 26t.

    New brake pads. kool stop .. salmon colored compound .

    You can add a stem riser quill/ tube type to get the bars up...

    Schmidt or Shimano dyno-hub is a good idea, I like the battery free lighting.

    shimmy could be flexible racks and how the load in the bags is packed.
    I'm surprisingly happy with my gear ratios. The 30x30 has been fine for me on some really steep roads (though as I get older going smaller is probably a good option).

    It's not a shimmy problem at all, in fact when loaded the bike is rock solid. 40+ mph downhills are a non-issue from a stability perspective. It's the trade-off that it's not as responsive in the corners as I'd like when riding unloaded. I'm looking for the best of both worlds and that's why a "mid-geometry" frame was in the back of my mind.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by seeker333 View Post
    I have that problem all the time too.

    Plus, I get some shimmy when I go over 60mph on descents with more than 80 lbs loaded.
    So, sarcasm, aside, I understand the underlying point. I'm not concerned with how it handles loaded because it's quite good even at speed (though I've only maxed at 50 mph, not 60). It's the unloaded performance when I'm using the bike for non-touring purposes.

  9. #9
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    QueueCT, I rebuilt my '95 T700 and I think you'll get the most bang for the buck if you did also. My build: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...e-build-please . Not a high end build, but I'm quite pleased with the bike as it's exceeded all of my expectations... I'm also quite partial to Cannondales in general, so that you know.

    Brad

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by QueueCT View Post
    It's the unloaded performance when I'm using the bike for non-touring purposes.
    Which calls for a different bike than your Cdale. I'd keep the Cannondale and fix it up over time but if you want a different handling bike it won't come from changing components. The desire to have a sub 27lb bike with 32mm tires, Schmidt dyno and capability for light/medium touring is all possible but more achievable by exchanging wheels and removing racks than trying to get that with a light frame. I had an 80's Specialized Sequoia that fits what you're describing, comfortable road riding bike with 28mm tires and ability to take 32mm.
    Nowadays I'd consider a Specialized Tri-Cross.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by QueueCT View Post
    I think it's a geometry question . . . do I keep the longer chain stays, shallower head tube angle, etc or go for a frame that's a little more upright for better handling. I don't expect a significant change in components other than, say, caliper or disk rather than cantis.
    I missed this... No touring bike is going to handle like a road bike in the curves for the two reasons you've stated, geometry and wheelbase. A braking improvement can be had with linear pull brakes (a Travel Agent with your current levers or LP specific levers). The holes where you could mount a caliper brake would require a very long reach caliper that may work no better than what you have and tacking on disk brake mounts onto aluminum is a no-no, IMHO. You could have just the front fork modified however. A performance oriented 28C size tire may help some.

    Basically I'd update the T bike and look for a used road bike. A "best of both worlds" bike is really a compromise, marginally better unloaded and marginally worse when loaded.

    Brad

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