Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    20
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    looking for feedback from phil wood users

    I'm considering paying a lofty sum of money for some phil hubs and bottom bracket for my LHT. Do any of you folks use their touring hubs? What about their ti bb? Likes/dislikes/worth it? Any feedback is appreciated.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    East Tennessee
    My Bikes
    Rivendell--Sam Hilleborne, the only one I need.
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If you want trouble free, that's the way to go. I know nothing about their Ti stuff. The regular stuff is bombproof.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Waynesboro,PA
    My Bikes
    08 LHT and 13 giant defy 2 composite
    Posts
    301
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Don't they make alot of noise.If there the hubs I think they are then I wouldn't have them on my bike.
    I like as much peace and quite as I can get on my tours.

  4. #4
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    39,063
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I ran a older Phil Freewheel Hub, 48 hole , for a lot if trouble free miles.
    ove 10+ years,

    The axles are so strong , one of the selling points of Cassette hubs goes away.

    their BBs are fine, Ti loses it's benefit on a Touring bike
    as your gear pick, leaving things out, saves more weight.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,413
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would buy the PW in a hearbeat in freewheel format. The most recent hubs I bought were White industries, for cassettes. I wish I had bought the PWs for freewheel, now that I see the dish. That said the whites are excellent for cassetes, and much lighter and cheaper than PW, while having essentially the same rep. But unlike Phil they don't specifically support the touring market. PW goes back far enough that the touring market actually counted.

    I probably wouldn't buy the Ti BB since the shaft is not high diameter rotating weight. And the weight difference in minimal, and the steel is stronger, but all that said, if as a budget line for both weight and money, it makes sense for you then do it. But for me it doesn't really help, and Ti has some odd features. Flexible, more galling.

    I don't claim to be up to date on PW stuff and they are doing cool new stuff but... One of the selling points for the cheaper White cassette hub is that unlike the Phil tank it has a Ti shell (the weak point on cassette hubs). That makes more sense to me than a ti quill I will be beating on with all my considerable weight and muscle.

  6. #6
    Senior Member NukeouT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Jose
    My Bikes
    1996 LeMond Yellow Jersey, 2013 Soma Sora, 1980 Zebrakenko Thunder
    Posts
    362
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a PW BB in one of my bikes, and it is the best BB I have ever had.
    Time waits for no one.

  7. #7
    Real Men Ride Ordinaries fuzz2050's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,636
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I had a PW bottom bracket, but it was stolen (and the bike around it) before I had any chance to form an opinion on it's longevity. Easily the most expensive part of that bike...

  8. #8
    Senior Member rekmeyata's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    5,678
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a 40 hole Wood hub for the rear, but for the front not because I have dynamo and Wood doesn't offer those which is ok since most of the stress is on the back anyways so there is no need for a Wood hub on the front if your not going with a dynamo. Shimano XTR hub for the front would work great and last a long time. By the way I went with the cheaper Shimano Dynohub, I like it.

  9. #9
    ghost on a machine Bike Hermit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Idaho
    My Bikes
    Rivendell A. Homer Hilsen, Serotta Colorado Legend TG, Rivendell Roadeo, Surly Cross Check, Surly Big Dummy
    Posts
    174
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If you bought the LHT complete, the hubs are Shimano XT, and these are very durable and smooth and light enough. The bottom bracket, on the other hand is a cheap p.o.s. Shimano. Definitely replace it with the Phil bb.
    Bike Touring News
    Empowering The Bicycle Traveler

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,312
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by fuzz2050 View Post
    I had a PW bottom bracket, but it was stolen (and the bike around it) before I had any chance to form an opinion on it's longevity. Easily the most expensive part of that bike...
    thats a great answer made me laugh ,sorry about your b/b and bike though.

  11. #11
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Denver, CO
    My Bikes
    Some silver ones, a black one, a red one, an orange one and a couple of titanium ones
    Posts
    15,316
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by jdom View Post
    Don't they make alot of noise.If there the hubs I think they are then I wouldn't have them on my bike.
    I like as much peace and quite as I can get on my tours.
    I think the hubs you are thinking about are Chris King. The Phils are louder than a Shimano unit but they aren't all that loud. But I gladly put up some freehub noise for the durability and ease of maintenance of the Phils. A 5mm allen wrench takes the hub completely apart. If you have to replace a spoke, the whole freehub body comes out and you don't have to remove the cassette (not all that easy out on the road) to fit the new spoke.

    I also swear that they roll easier. On any bike ride, I consistently out coast any one around me.
    Stuart Black
    Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
    Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
    Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
    Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
    An Good Ol' Fashion Appalachian Butt Whoopin'.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Zang's Spur, CO
    Posts
    6,252
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I bought a pair of Phil hubs in the 90's.
    The freehub was buzzy, but no big deal.

    After 14 yrs, the freehub started making noise, so I sent it in for the flat rate overhaul.
    It came back with an (apparently) new freehub, and was dead silent.
    The silence had me so curious that I called them to ask about it.
    They told me that just packing it full of grease will do that.
    Indeed, it eventually started making a typical freehub sound eventually.

    About 18 months after that, i needed to send in the front hub for overhaul.

  13. #13
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    39,063
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    About 18 months after that, i needed to send in the front hub for overhaul.
    seems someone needs to either learn the DIY on that , or just know how to add
    a bit of light oil and live with the pawl/ratchet sound .

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,312
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    so these seem to be the cream of the crop but are they heavy hubs and what kind of money for a set of wheels

    looking for a lighter set of wheels .i have sun rhyno on xt hubs 36 spoke great wheels buy heavy
    so would a phil wood wheel be lighter .

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    PNW lifer
    My Bikes
    2007 C-dale 63cm T series. My 1994 was a better design 1994 Bianchi 61cm El/OS Sachs 2004 Rodreguiz 26' UTB touring thing
    Posts
    339
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Shimagnolo View Post
    I bought a pair of Phil hubs in the 90's.
    The freehub was buzzy, but no big deal.

    After 14 yrs, the freehub started making noise, so I sent it in for the flat rate overhaul.
    It came back with an (apparently) new freehub, and was dead silent.
    The silence had me so curious that I called them to ask about it.
    They told me that just packing it full of grease will do that.
    Indeed, it eventually started making a typical freehub sound eventually.

    About 18 months after that, i needed to send in the front hub for overhaul.
    Good story.

    I own a 135 spaced freewheel hub. (1/3 the price of the cassette). For touring dem cheezy 7 speed 12-28's work just fine. As long as the big box stores are selling $129 dollar bikes I have no worries regarding cheep and available 7 speed free's.

    PS: Mega's as just icky.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Zang's Spur, CO
    Posts
    6,252
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    seems someone needs to either learn the DIY on that , or just know how to add
    a bit of light oil and live with the pawl/ratchet sound .
    The freehub was shot. You really think PW would have replaced the freehub assembly if all it needed was lube???

  17. #17
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    20
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    so it sounds like most of you guys are using the freehub in lieu of the cassette hub. that seems like a good option considering the price difference. on that note, why is the cassette hub so much more expensive?

    for the bb, the consensus is to use steel, with ti cups? did I understand that properly?

  18. #18
    just pokin' along desertdork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    the desert
    Posts
    1,042
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a set of Phil hubs on a bike. They're nicely made, and Phil has one of the best reputations for customer service. I hope they'll be with me for many years. Whenever the time to replace the bearings should ever arrive, I can tap out the bearings and replace myself. Plus, the rear freehub is relatively simple to service.

    The rear hub also allows the cassette to be removed without special tools if d/s spoke replacement is necessary. If I wanted to save a few dollars, I'd probably start with choosing a different front hub, as I don't know the front Phil hub to be highly advantageous over other available hubs. I'd also be just fine with a Shimano UN-54 BB in lieu of the Phil BB. I own and use both, and I haven't experienced the Shimano to be functionally inferior. The savings between the front hub and BB should be ~$300.

  19. #19
    just pokin' along desertdork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    the desert
    Posts
    1,042
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by koosk View Post
    so it sounds like most of you guys are using the freehub in lieu of the cassette hub. that seems like a good option considering the price difference. on that note, why is the cassette hub so much more expensive?

    for the bb, the consensus is to use steel, with ti cups? did I understand that properly?
    "Freehub" connotes "cassette hub." I think you meant freewheel vs freehub.

    FWIW, I have the freehub.

  20. #20
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    20
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    so are you able to easily disassemble both the freewheel and freehub/cassette hub in the field, or just one of them?

  21. #21
    just pokin' along desertdork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    the desert
    Posts
    1,042
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    http://www.philwood.com/products/hubshome.php

    Phil has two different designs.

    FSA = "field serviceable axle"
    FSC = "field serviceable cassette"

    On both designs, the axle has endcaps which accept hex wrenches. By inserting a 5mm hex wrench into each end, the user is able to break loose one of the endcaps and thereby separate the axle into two pieces; this allows you to remove the axle and tap out the cartridge bearings for replacement.

    On the FSC hub, this also allows the user to easily remove the cassette body ("freehub") without requiring the removal of the cassette from the cassette body. On most hubs, you need to remove the cassette to gain access to the bolt that secures the cassette body. With the cassette body removed with the attached cassette, you can service the ratchet ring and pawls...AND you can replace a broken driveside spoke. If you break a DS spoke on most hubs, you'll need a chainwhip, cassette lockring tool and a large wrench to access the broken spoke. These aren't light tools, and that's part of the attraction of Phil hubs for touring.

    On the FSA hubs, the freewheel is secured via machined threads on the hub body. I believe removal of the freewheel is the same as it is on any other freewheel hub. The attraction of FSA hubs is that they're designed to be stronger and handle stress better than other freewheel hubs, and they are significantly less costly than FSC hubs.

  22. #22
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    39,063
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My freewheel phil hub was 1st generation, a stainless steel tube,
    with aluminum spoke flanges.
    axle was a pressed in assembly.. never needed service, so It got none.
    48 spoke, so 1 broken spoke left 47 spares.
    the threads for the freewheel were in stainless steel.. ,
    Borrowed a big adjustable wrench, removed the freewheel ,
    replaced the spoke, a few days later..

    all I bring is the freewheel remover.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 09-08-11 at 07:16 PM.

  23. #23
    ghost on a machine Bike Hermit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Idaho
    My Bikes
    Rivendell A. Homer Hilsen, Serotta Colorado Legend TG, Rivendell Roadeo, Surly Cross Check, Surly Big Dummy
    Posts
    174
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by desertdork View Post
    http://www.philwood.com/products/hubshome.php



    If you break a DS spoke on most hubs, you'll need a chainwhip, cassette lockring tool and a large wrench to access the broken spoke. These aren't light tools, and that's part of the attraction of Phil hubs for touring.

    Or this
    Bike Touring News
    Empowering The Bicycle Traveler

  24. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    My Bikes
    Bianchi San Remo - set up as a utility bike, Peter Mooney Road bike, Peter Mooney commute bike,Dahon Folder,Schwinn Paramount Tandem
    Posts
    1,819
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by koosk View Post
    I'm considering paying a lofty sum of money for some phil hubs and bottom bracket for my LHT. Do any of you folks use their touring hubs? What about their ti bb? Likes/dislikes/worth it? Any feedback is appreciated.
    I have a relatively new commuter bike (5,000 miles on it) with a phil rear hub and a phil bb - no issues yet. I also have an older tandem (1974 Paramount Tandem) with phil hubs front and rear - no idea how many miles - no issues with the phil parts on that bike either.

  25. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    407
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have 2 black PW 48 hole hubs that were never laced when I bought them on e-bay. I also have a BB that was never used - bought on e-bay too.They have provided excellent service on my touring bike. I also have several sets of older PW hubs for when I retire and decide to build some wheels....

    They cost heaps, but they are essentially trouble free - or less troublesome than Shimano and other similar brands in my experience. Their use depends on your personal tolerance to PITA effects.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •