Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Touring Have a dream to ride a bike across your state, across the country, or around the world? Self-contained or fully supported? Trade ideas, adventures, and more in our bicycle touring forum.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-09-11, 05:12 PM   #1
mizrachi
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Riding on the hoods: New Fork needed?

The most comfortable position on my 60cm Long Haul Trucker is behind the hoods by a
few inches. Riding on the hoods themselves, as I do on my road bike,
i feel a bit stretched out. As the steering tube has been cut and I
can't raise my bars any more than they already are (with the two or
three spacers in there) it looks like I've got a few options in order
to ride comfortably on the hoods:

1. Buy an uncut fork
2. Buy a 58cm frame
3. Use a stem riser
4. Use an adjustable stem
5. Buy a smaller frame
6. Adjust saddle closer to bars
7. Decide that riding behind the hoods is fine and get used to it.

For what it's worth, I have already swapped out the stock 120mm stem
for a 70mm stem and I'm afraid going any smaller might make the ride
a bit twitchy. And, I should also mention, that aside from this
issue, the bike is quite comfortable.

What would you recommend?
mizrachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 05:32 PM   #2
seeker333
__________
 
seeker333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Bikes: yes!
Posts: 3,168
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
http://aebike.com/product/dimension-...m2915-qc30.htm
seeker333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 07:00 PM   #3
PomPilot
Kilt wearing cyclist
 
PomPilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Bikes: 1974 Montomery Wards Open Road, 1971 Schwinn Suburban, 2010 Surly Long Haul Trucker
Posts: 201
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
You may want to consider a stem extender, since you said yours has been cut. But first, try the stem with the steeper angle.

I believe it was Grant from Rivendell Bicycle Works, who recommends that the handlebar height be at, or just above the level of the saddle. Regardless of if it was Grant or the late, great Sheldon Brown who made that recommendation, try it. I had been more comfortable riding similar to you (on the upper bars, and behind the hoods) until I raised my handlebar by using a stem similar to the one previously linked to. Now, I'm riding on the hoods themselves, and using the drops more, than I did when using the stock stem, and with the height below the saddle, like before.
PomPilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 07:18 PM   #4
Chris_in_Miami
Senior Member
 
Chris_in_Miami's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Bikes:
Posts: 4,517
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If you haven't already installed one, a zero-setback seatpost will help you get closer to the bars.
Chris_in_Miami is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 08:22 PM   #5
fuzz2050
Real Men Ride Ordinaries
 
fuzz2050's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 3,701
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_in_Miami View Post
If you haven't already installed one, a zero-setback seatpost will help you get closer to the bars.
I'm always wary of adjusting saddle position when reach is the issue. The placement of the saddle should (ideally) be to optimize the relationship between your hips (knees, legs, bottom) and the pedals. Maintaining that relationship is what allows for proper pedaling dynamics. Adjusting that to change reach seems to be backwards.
fuzz2050 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 09:00 PM   #6
robberry
Senior Member
 
robberry's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Bikes: Trek 3900, Trek 2.3
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Can you slide your seat forward any more?
robberry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 09:24 PM   #7
bradtx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Posts: 6,629
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by robberry View Post
Can you slide your seat forward any more?
The saddle shouldn't be used to adjust reach, see #5. Reach is adjusted via the steerer.

mizrachi, Have you thought about handle bars with a shorter reach?

Brad
bradtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 10:06 PM   #8
Clem von Jones
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 416
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
FSA compact handlebars and copies thereof have 80mm of reach compared to 100mm for most other bars. If you're concerned about twitchy handling you might get bars a little bit wider. I wouldn't hesitate to try a 60mm reach, taller, or perhaps adjustable stem combined with wider and less-reach bars.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...583.221.0.html

http://aebike.com/product/dimension-...b9040-qc30.htm

I'm wondering how tall you are. I'm 6'2", interested in the LHT and trying to determine if 58 or 60 is a better fit. A potential downside to the smaller frame is toe clearance for the front fender.

Last edited by Clem von Jones; 09-09-11 at 10:47 PM.
Clem von Jones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 10:16 PM   #9
mizrachi
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thank you for the replies.

I have not tried any of the suggestions mentioned, but will. I am wary of too much saddle adjustment as my knees aren't the greatest but I think there's probably some wiggle room. I'm also intrigued into why no one has mentioned replacing the fork. Perhaps just these minor adjustments will be enough.

Fit, on this bike, is confusing. One of the LBS' here would fit me for $130 for a "pro" fit. I could easily replace the fork and try new bars or a riser or setback post for that price. Anyway, I haven't heard of too many touring bike enthusiasts getting professional fits.
mizrachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 10:25 PM   #10
valygrl
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Boulder, CO
Bikes:
Posts: 8,322
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
^^ I had a professional (medical, actually) fit on my road and tour bikes.

70mm stem on a 60cm bike makes me think you have the wrong size frame. how about pictures of it with and without you on it?
valygrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 11:02 PM   #11
mizrachi
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What length stem would you think is appropriate, Valygrl? For sure the stock 120mm stem on the LHT had me stretched way out in front. Again, the bike is really comfortable. I'd just like to feel this level of comfort on the hoods, not behind them. My instinct is still telling me my steering tube was cut too short. But I'm no expert.
mizrachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 11:35 PM   #12
Clem von Jones
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 416
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Get an adjustable stem with long reach but use the reach to attain rise instead. This will simultaneously cure your stem length and rise anxieties.

http://www.brightspoke.com/t/bike-stem-calculator.html

Last edited by Clem von Jones; 09-09-11 at 11:39 PM.
Clem von Jones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 11:49 PM   #13
mizrachi
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clem von Jones View Post
Get an adjustable stem with long reach but use the reach to attain rise instead. This will simultaneously cure your stem length and rise anxieties.

http://www.brightspoke.com/t/bike-stem-calculator.html
An adjustable stem may be exactly what's needed. It's crazy...I'm so used to the road bike aesthetic that a stem with any rise looks bizzaro to me.

And sorry I overlooked your last question, I'm 6.05' with a pbh of 88.9
mizrachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-11, 06:29 AM   #14
valygrl
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Boulder, CO
Bikes:
Posts: 8,322
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mizrachi View Post
What length stem would you think is appropriate, Valygrl? For sure the stock 120mm stem on the LHT had me stretched way out in front. Again, the bike is really comfortable. I'd just like to feel this level of comfort on the hoods, not behind them. My instinct is still telling me my steering tube was cut too short. But I'm no expert.
Well, 70 is really short, my tour bike has a 515mm Effective Top Tube with a 70 mm stem, my road bike is 505/80. So 70 on a 60cm frame is pretty disproportional, makes me think the frame is too long. My tour bike is too long for me.

What's your current saddle-bar drop, and do you feel too low, or just too long? Low usually feels stretched in the mid to lower back, long in the neck/shoulders.
valygrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-11, 07:59 AM   #15
bradtx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Posts: 6,629
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mizrachi View Post
An adjustable stem may be exactly what's needed. It's crazy...I'm so used to the road bike aesthetic that a stem with any rise looks bizzaro to me.

And sorry I overlooked your last question, I'm 6.05' with a pbh of 88.9
You're just going to have to get that notion out of your head, I had to. It is a good plan to have your touring bike fit as close as possible to your well fitting road bikes, they just arent going to look the same side-by-side.

I don't think a fork swap will guarantee a better fit than using a combination of or possibly just one of the following, an adjustable stem, extender, different handle bars or simply moving the brake levers up on the bars. An easy thing to try is to roate your bars upward... may work.

Brad

Last edited by bradtx; 09-10-11 at 08:02 AM. Reason: corr
bradtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-11, 09:21 AM   #16
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 7
Posts: 19,714
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
There are short ramp road bar bends now, since brifters seem so long,
to have room for the mech inside the body..
fietsbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-11, 09:33 AM   #17
mizrachi
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
There are short ramp road bar bends now, since brifters seem so long,
to have room for the mech inside the body..
I'm reluctant to swap out the bars as the 46 cm nitto noodles are the most comfortable bars I've ever used
mizrachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-11, 09:36 AM   #18
mizrachi
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
You're just going to have to get that notion out of your head, I had to. It is a good plan to have your touring bike fit as close as possible to your well fitting road bikes, they just arent going to look the same side-by-side.

I don't think a fork swap will guarantee a better fit than using a combination of or possibly just one of the following, an adjustable stem, extender, different handle bars or simply moving the brake levers up on the bars. An easy thing to try is to roate your bars upward... may work.

Brad
I agree.

But I'm still trying to understand why a new fork with an uncut steering tube would be less effective than adjustable stems, risers, etc. Seems to me that an uncut steering tube will allow me to raise the bars higher than any extender and I can then dial in the fit with stem length. Wouldn't raising the bars also simultaneously shorten the reach to the hoods?
mizrachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-11, 12:27 PM   #19
bradtx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Posts: 6,629
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mizrachi View Post
I agree.

But I'm still trying to understand why a new fork with an uncut steering tube would be less effective than adjustable stems, risers, etc. Seems to me that an uncut steering tube will allow me to raise the bars higher than any extender and I can then dial in the fit with stem length. Wouldn't raising the bars also simultaneously shorten the reach to the hoods?
It's not that a new fork couldn't work, it's just that in addition to the new fork you may need to purchase another stem and or handle bar to make the new fork work anyways. In the original post you mention that you're "a few" inches behind the hoods. Just raising the handle bars can't compensate that much within a reasonable height change, IMHO. How many is a few inches?

Brad
bradtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-11, 01:34 AM   #20
wicki
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The UK
Bikes: Cannondale touring
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Hi, would love to know if you have cured this and if so how?...I am having similar issues on the LHT ...maybe my body shape! .. broke my back in 04 and have a scoliosis (curvature of the spine) I should be 6' but am actually 5'9.5"....I always have reach problems, begining to think a custom built frame is the way to go but it is so expensive.
wicki is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:00 PM.