LHT Build: Jtek Shiftmate long term reports?
12-02-04, 03:26 PM
#1
No one carries the DogBoy
Thread Starter
I know a few of you have this on your bikes (even a LHT recently). Has anyone used it for a long period of time (like 2k+ miles) that can give a durability report? Any issues with additional cable wearing on the pully? How about issues with road-grime fouling the pully etc.
I want to upgrade to a LHT and keep my 9sp campy levers, but there are no campy 135 mm hubs out there. This means Shimano Hubs. There is a $140 cassette that would work, but then my gearing is limited to a 25 cog. For that kind of money I can get an XT derailleur and an LX cassette and get a 34 cog. I'd like to go with the shiftmate option, but I want to know how well it works long-term before I do it. Otherwise, I think I'll just hold off for a while.
Assuming good reviews of the jtek, here is what I'm thinking:
Frame & Fork: 56cmLHT
Wheels: 36 spoke Mavic A719 w/ XT hubs $229 on Nashbar (any reason you can't use disc brake hubs without using disc brakes? If there is, this will cost a bit more)
brakes: Avid shorty 6
brifters: Campy Veloce 9sp
FD: Mirage triple
RD: XT M760 SGS 9-Long-cage
New 9-sp XTR/DA chain
Jtek Shiftmate
Cassette: Deore HG50 (11-34)
Cranks: PowerCranks/Mirage triple
Bottom Bracket: Campy veloce
Chainrings: 32-42-52 (would like to go to 28-40-50 but its too much $$$)
Susp Seatpost with my Celeste color Saddle from the Bianchi
Handlebars/stem yadda-yadda
Tires: armadillo 28s for now, soon Nokian W106, then some good 38s
Total cost including tax (having shop do the build) about $1,000.
Any thoughts? I haven't committed to anything yet. (BTW, I won't swap the cranks since I want to keep the powercranks and must therefore use a campy compatible bottom bracket)
I want to upgrade to a LHT and keep my 9sp campy levers, but there are no campy 135 mm hubs out there. This means Shimano Hubs. There is a $140 cassette that would work, but then my gearing is limited to a 25 cog. For that kind of money I can get an XT derailleur and an LX cassette and get a 34 cog. I'd like to go with the shiftmate option, but I want to know how well it works long-term before I do it. Otherwise, I think I'll just hold off for a while.
Assuming good reviews of the jtek, here is what I'm thinking:
Frame & Fork: 56cmLHT
Wheels: 36 spoke Mavic A719 w/ XT hubs $229 on Nashbar (any reason you can't use disc brake hubs without using disc brakes? If there is, this will cost a bit more)
brakes: Avid shorty 6
brifters: Campy Veloce 9sp
FD: Mirage triple
RD: XT M760 SGS 9-Long-cage
New 9-sp XTR/DA chain
Jtek Shiftmate
Cassette: Deore HG50 (11-34)
Cranks: PowerCranks/Mirage triple
Bottom Bracket: Campy veloce
Chainrings: 32-42-52 (would like to go to 28-40-50 but its too much $$$)
Susp Seatpost with my Celeste color Saddle from the Bianchi
Handlebars/stem yadda-yadda
Tires: armadillo 28s for now, soon Nokian W106, then some good 38s
Total cost including tax (having shop do the build) about $1,000.
Any thoughts? I haven't committed to anything yet. (BTW, I won't swap the cranks since I want to keep the powercranks and must therefore use a campy compatible bottom bracket)
12-02-04, 10:30 PM
#2
Steel is Real.
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No problems with the jtek. Have it on 2 bikes, have put over 1k on my Paramount with it, and the LHT is approaching 500 miles without a hitch so far. For a distance tour, I'll carry a couple spare cables. I suspect the only place that will give a problem is the crossover flat on the pulley, but so far it seems fine.
Oh, throw Kool stop salmon refills in your avid brakes, less squeal. If the bike shops don't have them, check Sports Chalet, Big 5, or Sports Authority, I was surprised at this one.
Oh, DO NOT do a rapid rise rear derailleur. Those are low normal derailleurs as opposed to high normal derailleurs. They'll work, but your shifting will be backwards. Get the M750 XT RD which can still be had for $40 or so. I'm running an Ultegra on mine since my around town gearing is a 12-27.
Edit again... Sugino makes the XD cranks, and lick bike carries them. 70 bucks, 110/74 bolt circle, 660g, 46/36/26 chainrings, and they look great. I'm thinking of putting a 48 or 50 on for the large ring, but the 46 seems to work well. Besides, 110/74 chainrings are easy to find and cheap. Use a 107mm UN-72/3 or splurge on a Phil 108mm BB. The shimano/tange sealed bb is a good deal at 25-30. Basically for 100 bucks you can have a great crankset that looks great on an LHT.
I built my wheels for $154.80 plus shipping. CR-18's from lick bike 27.95 32H, 24.95 36H, 4x13 for 4 20 packs of spokes, and caught nashbar with a sale on XT hubs, 29.95 rear, and 19.95 front. I build my own wheels. If you have them built, add around 50 or so to the price. The A719's you see advertised are most likely MTB wheels. For touring 700c wheels, you most likely will have to have them built. You will most likely either have to built a set of touring wheels, or have them built. If you have them built, go through a place like Peter White Cycles, or get a set from Sheldon Brown. They're familiar with touring bikes, if your bike shops are like mine, I get blank stares when I ask about this stuff. A touring wheel is an MTB hub with a road rim. Sheldon has couple good deals on the wheels. Not XT hubs, but they'll get you rolling and keep you in budget. XT hubs will probably put you over $200 for the set. https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels.html#roadwheels
Oh, throw Kool stop salmon refills in your avid brakes, less squeal.
If the bike shops don't have them, check Sports Chalet, Big 5, or Sports Authority, I was surprised at this one.Oh, DO NOT do a rapid rise rear derailleur. Those are low normal derailleurs as opposed to high normal derailleurs. They'll work, but your shifting will be backwards. Get the M750 XT RD which can still be had for $40 or so. I'm running an Ultegra on mine since my around town gearing is a 12-27.
Edit again...
Sugino makes the XD cranks, and lick bike carries them. 70 bucks, 110/74 bolt circle, 660g, 46/36/26 chainrings, and they look great. I'm thinking of putting a 48 or 50 on for the large ring, but the 46 seems to work well. Besides, 110/74 chainrings are easy to find and cheap. Use a 107mm UN-72/3 or splurge on a Phil 108mm BB. The shimano/tange sealed bb is a good deal at 25-30. Basically for 100 bucks you can have a great crankset that looks great on an LHT. I built my wheels for $154.80 plus shipping. CR-18's from lick bike 27.95 32H, 24.95 36H, 4x13 for 4 20 packs of spokes, and caught nashbar with a sale on XT hubs, 29.95 rear, and 19.95 front. I build my own wheels. If you have them built, add around 50 or so to the price. The A719's you see advertised are most likely MTB wheels. For touring 700c wheels, you most likely will have to have them built. You will most likely either have to built a set of touring wheels, or have them built. If you have them built, go through a place like Peter White Cycles, or get a set from Sheldon Brown. They're familiar with touring bikes, if your bike shops are like mine, I get blank stares when I ask about this stuff.
A touring wheel is an MTB hub with a road rim. Sheldon has couple good deals on the wheels. Not XT hubs, but they'll get you rolling and keep you in budget. XT hubs will probably put you over $200 for the set. https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels.html#roadwheels
Last edited by markw; 12-02-04 at 11:01 PM.
12-07-04, 03:45 PM
#3
No one carries the DogBoy
Thread Starter
Oh, DO NOT do a rapid rise rear derailleur. Those are low normal derailleurs as opposed to high normal derailleurs. They'll work, but your shifting will be backwards. Get the M750 XT RD which can still be had for $40 or so. I'm running an Ultegra on mine since my around town gearing is a 12-27.
Nevermind, I used search and found a thread explaining rapid rise. Then your post made sense. You are right, I don't want rapid rise.
