lobstermike

Hi everyone, just a quick question, will this 18 year old dawes kickback be adequate for touring? Has the photo loaded?

Caretaker

18 years old. No, it's not old enough.

Seriously, I'd be happy to tour on that bike with a few minor modifications. That saddle looks way too high for the bars. Presumably it's a comfortable seat height for you so I'd say your stem/bars need to come up a bit. Have a word with your local bike shop and see what they say.

The main differences between touring and commuting are that you are carrying a lot more weight on the bike and spending a lot more time in the saddle. Bear this in mind when modifying the bike.

The Dawes is a good starting point and with minor expenditure it would do just fine.

Mudguards, rear rack, another bottle cage, check you have a really low gear for serious climbing with a load onboard.

Best of luck.

Cyclebum

Does it fit you? Then it's adequate for touring. Only you and your wrench can tell how adequate.

lobstermike

If i fit another bottle cage, where would be the best place for the pump; it's a push in frame fit pump, so do i need a clamp of some sort to put the pump elsewhere? The gearing looks to be in good condition. 48,36,26 at the front, and the smallest granny is 28. Am not sure if that is low enough for the up hills?

lobstermike

The fit is o.k. When i stand over the top tube I have about an inch between the top tube and the crown jewels. Arms slightly bent to the handlebars; is that about right?

staehpj1

FWIW, I don't consider only one bottle cage to be a big hardship. Carry water in the panniers and refill the bottle when you run out. That said it looks like you have room for a cage under the down tube (down low) or on the top of the down tube closer the the head tube than your current cage. That or install the pump under the top tube. You could also add one of those brackets behind the saddle. Lots of options.

staehpj1

Sounds OK to me. Many tourists like a much more upright posture (I don't).

lobstermike

Is the 'bike buddy' the only way to go as regards a under the downtube bottle cage? I ride the bike withe the saddle about 6 inches above the top tube, so in that photo the saddle is way too high for me.

Caretaker

Your granny is the smallest chainring on the front, which is 26. 26 and your largest on the back will be your lowest gear.

You could put the pump in a pannier. I wouldn't keep water in a pannier because of the risk of leakage but you could keep an extra supply of water strapped to your rack.

fietsbob

If you can ride it all day its a touring bike.

Riv nuts go in a drilled hole and expand, like a poprivet,
then you can add fittings for stuff most anywhere,
though seatpost will stop against the highest one.

brazing them in is just a paint sacrifice, you can always do a touchup.

one Zefal liter bottle ought to get you between Pubs, to ask for a refill
it worked for me..
there are water bags , that you can hang off the outside of the load,

[and an empty one to pass water at night without going outside]

lobstermike

Ooops, sorry, the largest cog on the rear is 28. So thats 26 front, 28 rear is the lowest gear.

Caretaker

You look like you've got 26in wheels. In that case 26x32 would be about right. If 28 is your largest ring on the back that will mean a higher low gear but you might get away with it if you're young and fit and/or don't carry full camping kit.

fietsbob

2 feet is always the low gear option.

Caretaker

lobstermike,
Here's a good article on 'gears for touring' written by an English guy who runs a cycle tour business in France. https://www.bretonbikes.com/gears.htm
Seems to suggest you'd be ok with 26x28.

More interesting articles here.
https://www.bretonbikes.com/articleindex.htm

Cyclebum

Cable ties are your friend. Never leave home without a few. With them, you can temporarily attach a bottle cage about anywhere. But I'm with Staephj1. 2 are enough. Put more in the panniers or under a cargo net, another item I'd not leave home without. Need more water for that ride across the Outback? Time for a Camelback and some gallon jugs hanging here and there.

simplygib

I have 24x28 and have climbed some really steep stuff with that (26" wheels, 170mm crank). Would prefer to have a 24x32. I'd get a 32 in the back if I were you, but then again I've got tentative knees.

After some tweaks that bike should make a good touring machine.

LeeG

There's a lot of acreage under the top tube for a frame bag. Before you think of loading up the rear of the bike with big panniers, which is easy to do, consider carrying items on the front, under handlebars, on top of stem then smaller front panniers on the rear. Repack all the bearings in the hubs and bb. If the rear wheel spokes are corroded in the nipples or there's any loose spokes or out of roundness you might consider a new wheel or ride this one into the ground.

Lou Skannon

The only problem that I can foursee: Heel-strike on the panniers.
The rear rack will have to have the panniers set right back because any body with the seat that high will have big feet.

BigBlueToe

I tour with a Camelbak. When I'm worried about no water fillup spots I use it. When I'm traveling through civilization I bungie it on the back. When it's really hot out I fill the Camelbak up with ice, then water. I've got ice water for about 3 hours.

That bike isn't as good for touring as my LHT. That said, it's also emminently usable for a tour, and making a few tweaks to a bike you have is a whole lot cheaper than buying something new. I have a similar bike - an old Stumpjumper from the mid-80's. If I had only one bike and didn't want to spend money, I'd head off on tour on the Stumpjumper without a worry.

Comfort is huge on tour. What works on a one-day ride might become almost excruciating when you're riding day after day. I suggest you take some longer rides on 4 or 5 successive days and see how it feels. If it's not comfortable, there are plenty of tweaks you can do.

Have fun!

lobstermike

thanks for all the great ideas guys.

lobstermike

One other thing....if i buy a new cassette with a 32 tooth cog as the largest, will i have to make my chain longer? as my largest cog is currently 28

staehpj1

That depends on how your chain is set up now. There is a good chance that you may not have to, but... Do be careful as you can break off your rear derailleur if you shift onto the big ring and big cog with a too short chain.

surfjimc

You will need to buy a new chain, so it will be easy to lengthen it a few links if needed. Chains wear together with freewheels and if they are used too long before you change only the freewheel, the stretch and wear in the chain will cause the chain to skip now and then.

staehpj1

You can measure the chain to check for wear. If 12 full links measure 12-1/16" it is time to replace the chain. If replacing the cassette then maybe replace it sooner, but I wouldn't replace a chain with no measurable wear unless it is too short.

surfjimc

Sorry Pete,
I forgot you knew everything.