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  1. #1
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
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    Which 9 Shimano 9 speed rear shifter for Trekking Handlebars

    I'm going to finish my touring bike with Nashbar Trekking handlebars. The bike will have a 3x9 drivetrain. I have an Shimano Deore SGS RD-M591 Rear Derailleur and a 11-32 9 speed cassette.

    I'm looking for a durable set of shifters and a triple front derailleur that will be quick and easy to use on Trekking handlebars. I don't want "brifters" on this bike, if I can avoid it. I'm also looking for a moderate pricepoint.

    Any suggestions?
    Last edited by Barrettscv; 12-01-11 at 03:56 PM.
    2014 Trek DS.1: "Viaggiatore" A do-it-all bike that is waiting in Italy
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  2. #2
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Pauls thumbies + the 9 speed bar end lever set . It will go Klick for the rear ,
    for the indexing , which assumption is, you want.
    and the FD gets a universally compatible friction shifter.

    cheaper than that , forgo the indexing for both.
    then any friction thumb shifter will be fine..

    there is some possibility of using a Sram grip shifter ,
    but they dont have a friction mode for when the
    derailleur adjustments go out of whack.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 12-01-11 at 04:16 PM.

  3. #3
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrettscv View Post
    I'm going to finish my touring bike with Nashbar Trekking handlebars. [...]
    I don't want "brifters" on this bike, if I can avoid it.
    You don't want brifters on a trekking bar PERIOD. I'd go with Gripshift Attack shifters if you're going to put the shifters at the ends of the bar, but not many folks around here like Gripshifts, are you one?. If you want to put them at the "front" of the bar I'd probably go with fietsbob's suggestion. Or even get some old DX/XT/XC/XCPro thumbshifters and run them in friction mode.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  4. #4
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
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    Will Shimano Deore SL-M590 MTB shifters install well? Will these be easy to reach & use?
    2014 Trek DS.1: "Viaggiatore" A do-it-all bike that is waiting in Italy
    2012 Pedal Force CG2: "Secolo Bicicletta" the modern carbon fiber road bike
    2012 Pedal Force CX2: "Carbone CX" the carbon fiber CX bike
    2010 Origin 8 CX 700: "Servizio Grave" Monstercross/29er bike
    1997 Simoncini Special Cyclocross: "Little Simon" lugged Columbus steel CX bike
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  5. #5
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
    I'd go with Gripshift Attack shifters if you're going to put the shifters at the ends of the bar...


    Like these?

    http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Attack-9-...d_sim_sbs_sg_1

    What front derailleur will work with these shifters?
    2014 Trek DS.1: "Viaggiatore" A do-it-all bike that is waiting in Italy
    2012 Pedal Force CG2: "Secolo Bicicletta" the modern carbon fiber road bike
    2012 Pedal Force CX2: "Carbone CX" the carbon fiber CX bike
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    1997 Simoncini Special Cyclocross: "Little Simon" lugged Columbus steel CX bike
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  6. #6
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    they are a natural for MTB shifters, if combined with the brake lever or not..
    , given tube is 22.2,
    and will slide on the open rear end of the tube nicely, last thing..
    the big 3 throws front index scheme, just not a personal fave..
    but to each their own..

    even a Hydraulic Disc brake setup works fine..
    Magura HS33 rim brakes on one bike, here.

    or Avid's speed-dial MTB brake levers, as on another..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 12-01-11 at 05:46 PM.

  7. #7
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrettscv View Post
    Like these?

    http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Attack-9-...d_sim_sbs_sg_1

    What front derailleur will work with these shifters?
    Those are the ones. They'll work with pretty much any MTB front derailer I can think of, probably a lot of road FDs too, but I've never tried any. I like Gripshifts because they're light and I can shift across a whole cassette with one twist. Some people find them awkward, though.

    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    they are a natural for MTB shifters, if combined with the brake lever or not..
    , given tube is 22.2,
    and will slide on the open rear end of the tube nicely, last thing..
    the big 3 throws front index scheme, just not a personal fave..
    but to each their own..
    My Gripshift Attack front shifters (from 8-speed sets) have 9 light index positions for plenty of front derailer trim choices. I'd hope that the 9-speed ones are similar.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  8. #8
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
    Those are the ones. They'll work with pretty much any MTB front derailer I can think of, probably a lot of road FDs too, but I've never tried any. I like Gripshifts because they're light and I can shift across a whole cassette with one twist. Some people find them awkward, though.
    I had grip shifts on a Giant Cypress, I was happy with them. I would be willing use these with trekking bars.

    What brake levers would you suggest? What is the best position to locate the brake levers?
    2014 Trek DS.1: "Viaggiatore" A do-it-all bike that is waiting in Italy
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  9. #9
    djb
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    Barret, re grip shifters-as you say that you have used them and are happy with them, this may be a moot point-but I have always found that grip shifters to be a pain when wanting to shift and to keep a good, even grip on the bars. Much much prefer the snick snick of triggers while keeping your palms securely on the bars if the surface is iffy or whatever.
    On top of that, I was quite disappointed with the grip shifters on my wifes Specialized Vita (I imagine they are very middle of the road level shifters) as they began to develop problems and a local mechanic confirmed my opinion by saying how he sees grip shifters with issues, whereas triggers tend to go and go and go.

    As I said, component level must play a big part, but for me the "ergonomics" of shifting in rough terrain and having to change your hand pressure on the bars to grip the grip, is the real deal breaker for me. I bring this up mostly as when one thinks of trekking bars, I think of the good likelihood of being on rough roads and wanting as much front end control as you can have.

    The other big advantage of trekking bars I see is that your shifters are really in a protected area (for not getting whacked in a fall, or with manhandling) and so while I tend to feel that medium high components last quite well, they would even be more long lasting as the bars would protect them so much more. Mechanics I trust at one of my LBS have told me that mid range triggers would work just as well as the originals on my 98 Rockhopper, which while still working great, will get replaced at some point (I am touching wood right now) and I dont see the need for high end ones.

    anyway, just more 2 cents worth of opinions.
    cheers

    oh, what crank are you thinking of putting on it?

  10. #10
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrettscv View Post
    I had grip shifts on a Giant Cypress, I was happy with them. I would be willing use these with trekking bars.

    What brake levers would you suggest? What is the best position to locate the brake levers?
    Sorry, I've never bought brake levers, just used a bunch of 80s and 90s stock levers you can't really buy anymore.

    I like about 1/4" gap between brake levers and shifters and I like my levers pointing almost straight down, maybe about 15 up from 6 o'clock. I like trekking bars run backwards so I have controls on the position with more reach since that's where I ride most. Kinda like this guy's setup but with a brake/shifter gap and I would use a full length grip. I HATE Gripshift's short grips (especially the ones that come with this guy's halfpipe shifters.)

    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  11. #11
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djb View Post
    Barret, re grip shifters-as you say that you have used them and are happy with them, this may be a moot point-but I have always found that grip shifters to be a pain when wanting to shift and to keep a good, even grip on the bars. Much much prefer the snick snick of triggers while keeping your palms securely on the bars if the surface is iffy or whatever.
    On top of that, I was quite disappointed with the grip shifters on my wifes Specialized Vita (I imagine they are very middle of the road level shifters) as they began to develop problems and a local mechanic confirmed my opinion by saying how he sees grip shifters with issues, whereas triggers tend to go and go and go.

    As I said, component level must play a big part, but for me the "ergonomics" of shifting in rough terrain and having to change your hand pressure on the bars to grip the grip, is the real deal breaker for me. I bring this up mostly as when one thinks of trekking bars, I think of the good likelihood of being on rough roads and wanting as much front end control as you can have.

    The other big advantage of trekking bars I see is that your shifters are really in a protected area (for not getting whacked in a fall, or with manhandling) and so while I tend to feel that medium high components last quite well, they would even be more long lasting as the bars would protect them so much more. Mechanics I trust at one of my LBS have told me that mid range triggers would work just as well as the originals on my 98 Rockhopper, which while still working great, will get replaced at some point (I am touching wood right now) and I dont see the need for high end ones.

    anyway, just more 2 cents worth of opinions.
    cheers

    oh, what crank are you thinking of putting on it?
    I'll be using a DEORE FC-M590 48-36-22t. This crank is sold with a 26t, I'll replace that with a Shimano 22t. I'll use a 12-25 cassette for in-town use and a 11-32 cassette while touring.

    I've been a cyclocross bike user for the last 5 years. My Soma Double Cross has a 105 triple drivetrain with brifters and FSA Compact handlebars. I'll ride about 4000 miles/year and complete a few centuries now & then.

    I purchased a Windsor Tourest from Bike Island. This is a lighty-damaged clearence-sale item that I got for $350 without wheels and with a damaged big chainring. The frame and other key parts are damage-free and the bike has Tiagra brifters & front derailleur. It also has a Deore SGS rear derailleur and Tektro cantilevers. The crank, BB, handlebar, seatpost, saddle and other miscellaneous parts are not fit for use, IMO. The frame is a good item, the welds are smooth and the paint is substantual & attractive. The geometry is perfect for me in the 64cm size.

    I'll use a 40 spoke wheelset with Velocity Dyad rims and touring/trekking tires from Schwalbe or Vittoria.

    I like the design of trekking handlebars, but have never used them. I like having multiple hand locations and want something wider than drop bars for touring and gravel-trail use.

    I'm a little concerned about the brake lever position on the trekking bar. I might keep my hands as wide as possible while decending, but that means that my fingers won't be on the brake lever, if the levers are near the bar-ends.
    Last edited by Barrettscv; 12-02-11 at 05:53 AM.
    2014 Trek DS.1: "Viaggiatore" A do-it-all bike that is waiting in Italy
    2012 Pedal Force CG2: "Secolo Bicicletta" the modern carbon fiber road bike
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    2010 Origin 8 CX 700: "Servizio Grave" Monstercross/29er bike
    1997 Simoncini Special Cyclocross: "Little Simon" lugged Columbus steel CX bike
    1987 Serotta Nova Special X: "Azzurri" The retro Columbus SPX steel road bike

  12. #12
    djb
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    sounds like a neat project to put together. Yes of course I recall your DC and all the various ratio graphs (gearing nerds of the world, rejoice-yes I am one)
    a good find, I imagine you could sell the brifters and such to fund some of the stuff for this build.

    all the best with first coming up with what systems to use for shifting, and then experimenting with positioning. I havent used trekking bars, so really only imagined them with the shifters and brakes set up like on a mtn bike, on the straight part of the bars, with the rest of the bar going forwards for diff hand positions--so again, have fun experimenting and visualizing diff setups.

    cheers

  13. #13
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
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    I'm also reconsidering brifters and wider drop bars designed for trekking;

    This one from Salsa looks good: http://salsacycles.com/components/moto_ace_woodchipper/

    As does this design from Soma: http://somafab.blogspot.com/2010/12/...-launched.html
    2014 Trek DS.1: "Viaggiatore" A do-it-all bike that is waiting in Italy
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  14. #14
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrettscv View Post
    I like the design of trekking handlebars, but have never used them. I like having multiple hand locations and want something wider than drop bars for touring and gravel-trail use.

    I'm a little concerned about the brake lever position on the trekking bar. I might keep my hands as wide as possible while decending, but that means that my fingers won't be on the brake lever, if the levers are near the bar-ends.
    Yeah, I decided Trekking bars weren't for me after trying them for a bit. Sure they have lots of hand positions but only one that's near the controls. This is my favorite MTB controls setup for touring. I like riding on the barends for long rides so much I decided to put controls on them, then reserve using the flat bar for a change of pace, while resting or long slow uphill grinds, etc. Early experimentation phase pic before getting longer grips for the barends and bartape for the flat bar.


    Controls on the barends by Lester Of Puppets, on Flickr
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 12-02-11 at 06:14 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  15. #15
    djb
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    [QUOTE=Barrettscv;13556744]I'm also reconsidering brifters and wider drop bars designed for trekking;

    This one from Salsa looks good: http://salsacycles.com/components/moto_ace_woodchipper/

    a good friend rides a 20 yr old fuji alucross and the bars are quite similar to these. He really likes the flair and one can see that the advantage to this over regular drop bars would be the extra leverage on rough stuff.

    I think its fair to say that being on rough stuff a fair amount would be the main reason for these or trekking bars. I guess the issue with using brifters if you know you will be in rough stuff a lot is that there are more chances for a good off, and dinging them to the point of not being able to shift would be much more of a concern than regular road riding (and then of course where you think you would be riding, vis-a-vis having access to bike stores or whatever if a brifter gets well and truly whacked)

  16. #16
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    The set up, in #10 looks 'bass ackwards' , but to each their own.

    you lose several grips for your hands, I use most.

  17. #17
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    you lose several grips for your hands, I use most.
    How does running butterfly bars backwards cause one to lose several grips for one's hands?
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  18. #18
    djb
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    Lester, how does teh bike steer with your hands at the closest position, basically in line with the headset, same level as headset--does it feel squirrelly? It looks like it would to an outsider with the bars on that way.

  19. #19
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Not my setup in that pic. I had a 130mm stem on my butterfly bar. Nearest position was like riding a flat bar with a 40mm stem. Never posed a problem for me. If I was in the nearest hand position I was usually going pretty slow - 10mph or so.

    My grocery getter has similar stem reach and rides like a dream.

    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  20. #20
    djb
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    Quote Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
    Not my setup in that pic.
    oops, you said as much and I did read it, slipped me mind. My mtn bike used as commuter/or whatever has a similar bar setup to your black bike, and yes, its fine. Mine steers nice and quickly even with 40mm-1.5in Marathons on it, which is great for in and around traffic and such, but is by no means overly quick or twichitity.

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