Surly LHT + Rohloff hub = ???
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Surly LHT + Rohloff hub = ???
Already, I've been searching around the web/BF's/LBS for awhile and unable to answer my question.
I am planning to do my first (real) touring bike build, and leaning towards using a LHT frame (54 cm frame, 26" wheels) and a Rohloff hub. Using Rim brakes, would like Disc LHT but from what I gather they won't be available for a few more months from Surly.
Through the miracle of Google, I've discover that it is possible to do this combo, but i am really curious on how difficult this is to do so. I've noticed I'll have to use a chain tensioner, no big issue to me. Wheels spoke lengths are a non issue; I intend to have hand built ones made anyway.
Is there anything else I should know? What other parts will I need to make this happen?
BTW, attempting to circumnavigate Australia on this bike. Have some experience ghetto touring in 3rd world countries Hate derailers with a passion.
Thanks a ton! This forum has been a huge help to me.
I am planning to do my first (real) touring bike build, and leaning towards using a LHT frame (54 cm frame, 26" wheels) and a Rohloff hub. Using Rim brakes, would like Disc LHT but from what I gather they won't be available for a few more months from Surly.
Through the miracle of Google, I've discover that it is possible to do this combo, but i am really curious on how difficult this is to do so. I've noticed I'll have to use a chain tensioner, no big issue to me. Wheels spoke lengths are a non issue; I intend to have hand built ones made anyway.
Is there anything else I should know? What other parts will I need to make this happen?
BTW, attempting to circumnavigate Australia on this bike. Have some experience ghetto touring in 3rd world countries Hate derailers with a passion.
Thanks a ton! This forum has been a huge help to me.
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I own a LHT, but have no experience with the Rholoff. I'd love to see pics of it set up, though. You should be able to make it work pretty easily, though the Surly Troll has a built-in anchor for the Rholoff hub, you might consider that if you're not dead-set on the LHT.
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Why would you use a 1400$ hub on a 600$ frame?
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I've built a couple of bikes with internally geared hubs (though my LHT has a derailleur) and I think you'll have no trouble with this combination. Pay attention to rear axle spacing (135mm on the LHT) and to shifter mounting (it comes with a twist shifter requires adaptation to work with drop bars). Also practice fixing rear flats before you leave. IGH hubs make this a bit tricky.
Please post some pics of your tour when you do get underway.
Please post some pics of your tour when you do get underway.
#7
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I have the Rohloff, other builders design for the hub,
but with the chain tensioner and the retrofit torque arm it will work.
the other torque transfer schemes are tidyer,
disc LHT will adapt the OEM2 fork
torque lever as it fits over ISO disc lower bolts
Co Motion sorts out the Rohloff use Better.
Thorn UK and Tout Terrain DE, also.
but with the chain tensioner and the retrofit torque arm it will work.
the other torque transfer schemes are tidyer,
disc LHT will adapt the OEM2 fork
torque lever as it fits over ISO disc lower bolts
Co Motion sorts out the Rohloff use Better.
Thorn UK and Tout Terrain DE, also.
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-30-11 at 03:12 AM.
#8
-
It's not an anchor so much as a location to fit a bolt to engage the OEM2 axle plate, which is also featured on the Disc Trucker.
I describe the fit of a Rohloff to a Disc Trucker here -
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post13351305
Disc Trucker should be available Feb-Mar 2012. Comments made in above link apply to LHT as well, except use of a OEM2 axle plate may not work.
At some point you'll need a Rohloff sprocket tool.
You'll also need a Rohloff chain tensioner. You could be lucky and get the chainring/sprocket/chain length to work out so close that you don't need the chain tensioner, but that's not likely.
Here's another idea - Philcentric bottom bracket. Eliminates the tensioner, but limits choice of crankset and costs more.
https://www.philwood.com/products/bbp...hilcentric.php
'...leaning towards using a LHT frame (54 cm frame, 26" wheels) and a Rohloff hub. Using Rim brakes, would like Disc LHT but from what I gather they won't be available for a few more months from Surly.
Through the miracle of Google, I've discover that it is possible to do this combo, but i am really curious on how difficult this is to do so. I've noticed I'll have to use a chain tensioner, no big issue to me.
Through the miracle of Google, I've discover that it is possible to do this combo, but i am really curious on how difficult this is to do so. I've noticed I'll have to use a chain tensioner, no big issue to me.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post13351305
Disc Trucker should be available Feb-Mar 2012. Comments made in above link apply to LHT as well, except use of a OEM2 axle plate may not work.
At some point you'll need a Rohloff sprocket tool.
You'll also need a Rohloff chain tensioner. You could be lucky and get the chainring/sprocket/chain length to work out so close that you don't need the chain tensioner, but that's not likely.
Here's another idea - Philcentric bottom bracket. Eliminates the tensioner, but limits choice of crankset and costs more.
https://www.philwood.com/products/bbp...hilcentric.php
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I have the Rohloff, other builders design for the hub,
but with the chain tensioner and the retrofit torque arm it will work.
the other torque transfer schemes are tidyer,
disc LHT will adapt the OEM2 fork
torque lever as it fits over ISO disc lower bolts
Co Motion sorts out the Rohloff use Better.
Thorn UK and Tout Terrain DE, also.
but with the chain tensioner and the retrofit torque arm it will work.
the other torque transfer schemes are tidyer,
disc LHT will adapt the OEM2 fork
torque lever as it fits over ISO disc lower bolts
Co Motion sorts out the Rohloff use Better.
Thorn UK and Tout Terrain DE, also.
Thanks seeker, you answer my question perfectly
#10
Banned
My 1st Rohloff bike a Koga Miyata 04 WTR, bought used,
(sliding Dropout, type tensioner)
2nd from Bike Friday.. someone else ordered it, then rejected the color shade.
It uses the #8250 chain tensioner.
chain has come off from bike falling over, so a finger gets greasy occasionally
putting it back on.
(sliding Dropout, type tensioner)
2nd from Bike Friday.. someone else ordered it, then rejected the color shade.
It uses the #8250 chain tensioner.
chain has come off from bike falling over, so a finger gets greasy occasionally
putting it back on.
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-30-11 at 01:38 PM.
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Decided to use a surly troll frame for this build instead. Disc brakes, rear dropout that takes the rolhoff without a tensioner and a preference towards a MTB frame were too tempting to pass up. Ordered by my LBS this morning
Totally excited to build my first bike from scratch. Never owned a new bike in my life either. Should be a really cool learning exprience
Totally excited to build my first bike from scratch. Never owned a new bike in my life either. Should be a really cool learning exprience
Last edited by SparkyGA; 12-03-11 at 04:11 PM.
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Nice with the Troll. I just got mine (complete bike) yesterday and took it down to a nature reserve for some gravel and mud riding...it's been great so far! I can't wait to do some long hauls on this thing.
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Good choice, I'm sure the Troll will serve you well. And do I even have to say it?
Post up pics!
Post up pics!
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May have give her a colour change... I love orange but kinda thinking of a matt black powdercoat. Likely super expensive locally....
#15
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I like IGH hubs,but would never use one for touring. I've done a lot of touring in the past 40 years and I would not want to be in SW Buttheadistan with a broken black box.
Marc
Marc
#16
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To me Rohloff made their hub for mountain bikes, and the market adapted them,
for lots of other purposes. 32 spoke and a range like a 27 speed mountain Bike.
Seems from the website, they have a presence with the company tent,
at a lot of European Mountain-bike events ..
Unlike other hubs, they are more like a BMW transmission than a Sturmey Archer,
as there are needle bearings where most IG use the oil in a bushing around a pin.
Got a bike build around the Rohloff, by the NL based OEM. https://www.cyclofiend.com/working/20...clark1008.html
Then got one made for the hub By Bike Friday.. in Oregon.
for lots of other purposes. 32 spoke and a range like a 27 speed mountain Bike.
Seems from the website, they have a presence with the company tent,
at a lot of European Mountain-bike events ..
Unlike other hubs, they are more like a BMW transmission than a Sturmey Archer,
as there are needle bearings where most IG use the oil in a bushing around a pin.
Got a bike build around the Rohloff, by the NL based OEM. https://www.cyclofiend.com/working/20...clark1008.html
Then got one made for the hub By Bike Friday.. in Oregon.
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-07-11 at 12:41 PM.
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I think Rohloff hubs are known for never failing (like, ever) which is one reason they appeal to world-travel bikers.
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I found this setup of a Surly 1x1 with a Rohloff hub on this BLOG. Looks like a really cool setup on the 1x1. It should work well with a LHT you still need to use some sort of chain tensioner.
Photos from The Lazy Rando Blog
Photos from The Lazy Rando Blog
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I just built up an LHT with a Shimano Alfine 11-speed hub (well, my bike shop built it). It's fantastic.
It has the Surly tensioner on there, 26-inch wheels (which look a little goofy on a 62cm frame) and an Alfine quick-fire shifter. I think the Rohloff is a little heavier than the Alfine, but otherwise it should work just the same.
Being able to stop and shift on steep hills is super-handy, and cleaning is a breeze. Getting the rear wheel off is more of a pain, though, but not as bad as babysitting derailleurs all day long.
Can post photos if you like. The bike is parked away from home (in a safe place) so I while don't have any closeups handy, I have a full-bike shot if you like. In the meantime you can see it here:
https://instagr.am/p/RnbQ_/
--Charlie
It has the Surly tensioner on there, 26-inch wheels (which look a little goofy on a 62cm frame) and an Alfine quick-fire shifter. I think the Rohloff is a little heavier than the Alfine, but otherwise it should work just the same.
Being able to stop and shift on steep hills is super-handy, and cleaning is a breeze. Getting the rear wheel off is more of a pain, though, but not as bad as babysitting derailleurs all day long.
Can post photos if you like. The bike is parked away from home (in a safe place) so I while don't have any closeups handy, I have a full-bike shot if you like. In the meantime you can see it here:
https://instagr.am/p/RnbQ_/
--Charlie
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I built a toutterrain silkroad, that uses the OEM 2 which is perfect. Built the bike about two years ago. One oil change since then, and ZERO other maintenance, despite commuting and a few longer trips, including parts of the divide ride and some of the colorado trail, and most of the selkirk loop. I have been riding the bike on old railbeds around here this past year too, so a good bit of offroad.
I think your choice of the troll frameset is a good one. Having the right fittings for the hub makes everything much cleaner. The track ends on the troll are a great way to go, with one caveat (below).
I would see if the bolt-on version (threaded axle rohloff) will work with the troll frame- since it will be a bit more theft resistant, and more bomber on a long tour...I would consider it, given the horizontal drops on the troll frame. QRs need to be pretty (IMHO too) tight to clamp wheels in trackends. Devices like pitlock will snap if cranked too tight (ask me how I know this). QRs really are meant for vertical dropouts, period.
I would recommend that you run the cable with full length housing shifter to hub- keeps it cleaner, longer. THe cable housing rohloff supplies is fully teflon lined, and durable. Best not to cut the inner sheath to save a few grams...
I would definitely buy the disk-ready rohloff, whether you use rim brakes or not. One day you might want disks, since you'll keep the wheel for a while. I love mechanical disk brakes. I also love cantis. but I dont like rebuilding wheels with worn out rims. I would say that my Avid BB7 roads are as good or better than my Paul cantis, which is to say very good.
The hub is about 1100 shipped right now from germany. PM me if you want the source.
I think your choice of the troll frameset is a good one. Having the right fittings for the hub makes everything much cleaner. The track ends on the troll are a great way to go, with one caveat (below).
I would see if the bolt-on version (threaded axle rohloff) will work with the troll frame- since it will be a bit more theft resistant, and more bomber on a long tour...I would consider it, given the horizontal drops on the troll frame. QRs need to be pretty (IMHO too) tight to clamp wheels in trackends. Devices like pitlock will snap if cranked too tight (ask me how I know this). QRs really are meant for vertical dropouts, period.
I would recommend that you run the cable with full length housing shifter to hub- keeps it cleaner, longer. THe cable housing rohloff supplies is fully teflon lined, and durable. Best not to cut the inner sheath to save a few grams...
I would definitely buy the disk-ready rohloff, whether you use rim brakes or not. One day you might want disks, since you'll keep the wheel for a while. I love mechanical disk brakes. I also love cantis. but I dont like rebuilding wheels with worn out rims. I would say that my Avid BB7 roads are as good or better than my Paul cantis, which is to say very good.
The hub is about 1100 shipped right now from germany. PM me if you want the source.
Last edited by positron; 12-06-11 at 05:41 PM.
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