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  1. #1
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    Touring Bike Build

    I am wanting to build up my Trek Earl for a touring trip this summer. It has a steel frame and I am ok with that. I have been able to find a lot of parts used on ebay and wanted everyone's opinion on my proposed setup:

    Bontrager Race VR drop bar
    Shimano ST-4503 Tiagra STI 3x9 shifters/brake
    Dura Ace 7700 brakes
    Shimano XTR M970 front deraileur
    Shimano Deore lx crankset 46/36/24 175mm
    Shimano Dura Ace 7700 rear deraileur
    Harris Cyclery CS923 Cyclotouriste 13 cassette
    Brook's Champion Flyers seat
    AXIOM 'TOUR DU MONDE' STAINLESS REAR RACK
    Tubus Tara front rack
    Bontrager waterproof panniers
    Rebuild stock 700c rims with quick release skewer hubs

    I think this is all I have looked at so far. I am not for sure if all of these parts are compatible or not. I know that the XTR front deraileur comes as both top and bottom pull. Also, I'm not sure what size of tire and tubes to get. Any suggestions?

    I appreciate it guys!

  2. #2
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Earl is made as a single speed bike, no derailleur installation intended,
    so narrow axle , , no place for derailleur on the dropout .
    http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...ty/earl/earl/#

    re think the whole build..

    start from using an internal gear hub, such as an Alfine 8 or 11 speed,
    and you can hold down a trailer hitch mount , for a 2 wheel trailer ,
    with the left axle nut.
    I think you can use a 1 wheel one , like Xtra wheel
    it will carry the pannier.. so no rear rack kludge to sweat
    Last edited by fietsbob; 02-09-12 at 07:04 PM.

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by curryitr View Post
    Not unless the rear wheel spacing is 130mm, if it's a fixed gear bike and there isn't a gear hanger it's probably 120mm. All this is somewhat doable if you can get someone to bend the rear triangle but you'd be better off just buying a whole new bike given the cost of all the parts and labor involved. An 8spd IGH rear wheel will be close to half price of a whole new bike. Measure the width of the dropouts to be sure to know what you have.
    Last edited by LeeG; 02-09-12 at 07:34 PM.

  5. #5
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    NO, wont cure the fact that the dropouts wont fit any modern derailleur hub..
    track hub type is roughly120mm wide every thing else is wider.
    and I think the dropout opens to the back, not the front
    [shop downtown has one in the window, but I'm not there to look]

    just look into a wide range IGH, then you can leave the trouser guard on
    Shimano alfine 11 speed should do the trick.. Put Ergon Bar ends on your straight bars

    Best idea.. leave it as it is and go look for a Trek 520, which starts out as a touring bike.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 02-10-12 at 12:58 PM.

  6. #6
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    The dropout opens to the front so I think it will work. I measured and it is 120mm. It shouldn't be too hard to do what is outlined here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

  7. #7
    Goes to 11. striknein's Avatar
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    In that case, it sounds awesome and you should go for it. Post pics when you're done.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    I actually just run calipers. Levers are for scrubs.

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    so say I get the frame spaced correctly with a suitable adapter claw do you think the above components will work together?

  9. #9
    Senior Member Tende's Avatar
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    Well, I don't believe your dura ace rear will work with a 34 tooth cassette; also dura ace brakes will limit you to a very narrow tire. The original spoke count and rims are probably not strong enough for touring. Im with Fietsbob, in that an internal hub might work - or start looking for a more appropriate frame.

  10. #10
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    120 dropout puts you back to 5 speed era, they were just freewheels back then.

    still say get an internally geared hub 120, there are wide range 5 speeds ,
    and no derailleur needed ..

    or N+ 1 just buy a proper touring bike .
    your list would get you close to paying for one anyhow..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 02-10-12 at 01:03 PM.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Chris Pringle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curryitr View Post
    so say I get the frame spaced correctly with a suitable adapter claw do you think the above components will work together?
    It's perfectly understandable to try to tour with what you've got available. Be careful about widening the dropouts. 5-6mm is perfectly OK, 10mm is pushing it and the maximum that is ever adviseable. It needs to be cold-set. Have you considered making it a 6-speed with a 13-34 freewheel and 126mm spacing? At any rate, have a professional bike shop take care of the respacing. Make sure they are knowledgeable on steel frames. Just remember that once you respace the dropouts, you're compromising the integrity of the frame and voiding the warranty. I personally would only feel comfortable doing this on a commuter bike or around-town bike, but I'd be leery doing this on a bike for loaded touring purposes. What's the length of your chainstays? You don't want to do all this and realize your frame will run into other geometry issues/headaches like short chainstays causing you to have heelstrike with your panniers making the whole process a complete lose-lose proposition at the end.
    Last edited by Chris Pringle; 02-10-12 at 04:29 PM.

  12. #12
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    I talked to a local bike shop today that said it would be no problem to cold set the frame. He said that it would cost about $40. That's pretty good considering the alignment tools I would need to do it myself are around $80. I think that I am going to keep the factory brakes for now. What is the largest tooth sprocket that I can fit in the back with that dura ace 7700?

  13. #13
    Gear Combo Guru Chris_W's Avatar
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    The Tiagra shifter won't work well with the XTR front derailleur. See if you can get hold of a single, used bar-end shifter to use to operate the front derailleur (you can still stick with a brifter for the rear derailleur if you choose). If you want to stick with the Tiagra shifter then use a road triple front derailleur, it should work just about OK with that gearing, although maybe not ideal.

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    Based on the compatibility issues I guess I would be better off using something like a deore xt rear and ultegra 6703 front derailleurs. I might be able to get the derailleurs and a deore xt cassette for around $120. That's almost the same price as the shifters!
    Last edited by curryitr; 02-11-12 at 02:19 AM.

  15. #15
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    adding all this up is starting to get kind of complicated and pricy...What do you all think about a alfine 8 speed in the back with a chain tensioner and 2 rings up front? Would that give me adequate range for loaded touring?

  16. #16
    Senior Member Chris Pringle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curryitr View Post
    adding all this up is starting to get kind of complicated and pricy...What do you all think about a alfine 8 speed in the back with a chain tensioner and 2 rings up front? Would that give me adequate range for loaded touring?
    Yes, an Alfine 8 would be OK for touring. But wait a minute... Wouldn't you have to spread your dropouts even further out with an Alfine 8? I think you'll be going 3 sizes up on that hub. Seems to me that you're starting to see how this whole thing is just becoming an expensive proposition with no guarantees that it will even work properly. What's wrong with selling the single speed to get the right touring frame to start with?

  17. #17
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    I really enjoy my bike and it holds sentimental value to me. I would love to be able to tour on this frame. I think that I read on sheldon's website that the alfine 8 hub can be brought down to 126-130 mm by taking some hardware off the sides

  18. #18
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    Bought most of the parts on Ebay today. I got the following for $382:

    Deore LX 44/32/22 crankset with bottom bracket
    Deore LX 116 link chain
    Ultegra 6703 triple front derailleur
    Deore XT 11-32 rear cassette
    Deore XT 751 Mega 9spd rear derailleur
    Shimano 105 5501 3 x 9 Brifters

    Decided on this because to buy a built Alfine 8 wheel+brake levers+bar end shifter was going to be over $500. Now all I have to decide on is what rear hub and rim to use. I feel that I will have a much larger gear spread for close to the same price or possibly less.

    I think that I will be able to do the whole build for around $900. Buying a Trek 520 for 1500 would have been more expensive, with lower components, and not nearly as fun!

  19. #19
    __________ seeker333's Avatar
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    They ought to sticky this thread...

  20. #20
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    Alright, time for an update. I will be picking my bike up from the LBS tomorrow. Got the above parts, a jandd expedition rear rack, and a brooks saddle. Looking forward to seeing how it will all work together. I am leaving for a 900 mile ride on May 12th from New Orleans to Kentucky! Will mostly be on the Nachez Trace. This will be my first ever tour!

  21. #21
    Senior Member dveneman's Avatar
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    Please post some photos of your bike when you can.
    How much weight will you carry and what hubs are you using?
    Last edited by dveneman; 04-23-12 at 10:25 PM. Reason: forgot to ask OP a question

  22. #22
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    I'm not really sure about the weight yet. I'm only going to use rear panniers with a rear rack. I'm not really going to take camping gear. Just a sleeping bag, couple pairs athletic shorts and t's, and then a tool kit with extra tube and stuff. I'm sure when its all said and done about 20 lbs, maybe 30 at most. The front hub will be stock trek earl. The back one will prob be either tiagra or 105 shimano

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