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  1. #1
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    question about touring cranksets for Miyata 1000

    I have a Miyata 1000 from 1986 I am looking to revamp a bit. For right now I am looking to find a crankset that is a triple chainring (bike is used for touring/ commuting), and also something that looks traditional. Does anyone have any suggestions for particular crankset models to be looking for? I still have the original cranks on the bike and I am definitely not opposed to keeping them and buying new chainrings but I don't know how cost effective that would be... The original components are Shimano (not sure which model). I am looking to buy something in the middle/ middle-upper price range, so something that is nice. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Travelling hopefully chasm54's Avatar
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    If it were mine, I'd keep the original cranks and put on some new Shimano chainrings. Cost-effectiveness will depend on where in their range you choose.
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  3. #3
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    Sugino XD or Velo Orange

  4. #4
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    110 - 74 BCD.. Any thing offered with a british thread BB will screw in the frame.

    are you using friction shifting or are you wanting index clicks?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Chris Pringle's Avatar
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    Original cranks and new chainrings would also be #1 choice. I might consider a new bottom bracket if it hasn't been replaced recently. If you'd rather go new, Sugino XD500 offers a nice range (24, 36, 48t) great for both touring and commuting. It would also look great on a classic bike like the Miyata 1000.
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  6. #6
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    If you are going to go new, save yourself lots of headaches and go with an external bottom bracket. The Shimano M590 can be found for $100 (with bottom bracket) and offers a good high and a superb low gear of 22 teeth. They are dead easy to install with about half the tools that a traditional 3 piece crank requires. And, if you have to remove one, it's a whole lot easier than a square taper.

    For comparison, the Sugino XD500 is $125 without the bottom bracket
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Chris Pringle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
    If you are going to go new, save yourself lots of headaches and go with an external bottom bracket. The Shimano M590 can be found for $100 (with bottom bracket) and offers a good high and a superb low gear of 22 teeth. They are dead easy to install with about half the tools that a traditional 3 piece crank requires. And, if you have to remove one, it's a whole lot easier than a square taper.

    For comparison, the Sugino XD500 is $125 without the bottom bracket
    Concur that this is the best option IF keeping the "classic/traditional" look becomes less of a concern. Perhaps the one in silver (instead of black) will fit the look a little better on your Miyata 1000. I'm using the M590 crankset per various recommendations (including cyccomute's ) in my new custom build and I'm LOVING it. As far as value, it's hard to beat this crankset for touring/commuting purposes given its really low 22t. You'll appreciate having it in your tours.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the suggestions. I think I will stick with the stock cranks I have and buy chainrings individually. If I want to have a 50-42-26 setup does Shimano sell something that will be compatible with my old cranks (I believe they are Shimano 600 EX, originally had biopace chainrings)? In terms of shifting I run the stock downtube shifters.

  9. #9
    Fred-ish rogerstg's Avatar
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    Since you are not changing the rear gears or the shifting type to index, why change the chainrings? Are they worn out? What are you trying to accomplish?

  10. #10
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    I am changing the chainrings because my middle one and large ring are pretty worn out and have many years of use on them (they are starting to shark tooth and cause the occassional chain slip). I might keep the small chainring on but I wanted to get something a bit smaller than what I have on there at the moment. In terms of the rear cassette I don't think I ever mentioned anything about it but since you mentioned it I will be replacing that as well to give me more some more range. My main question at this point is chainring compatibility with my stock 600 EX cranks. Does anyone have any info in regards to that?

  11. #11
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    middle and outer 130, 38t is as small as you can use, if its a 110 then they accept 4 teeth less , a 34t

    74mm BCD takes a 24t.. 7075 alloy is longer wearing ..

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the help you guys. Two more questions of sheer ignorance: how do I know if my front derailleur (sp?) will handle say a range of 50-42-26? Also, if I want to get a rear cassette of 11-32 to go with that triple chainring combo what are my options for rear derailleurs?

  13. #13
    The Left Coast, USA FrenchFit's Avatar
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    In case you didn't know, there are online databases that can show you the max and capacities of vintage RDs, FDs, etc. Look yours up. Try http://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/Models.html as one example.

  14. #14
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    yeah thats convenient, wasn't aware it existed. So if you glance at this page (http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.as...d-8d75eea8ef75) from velo-base, what does "Max chain wrap" refer to exactly? And am I correct when I read "Max cog size" that would be the largest gear (28T) that I could run on my rear cassette? The idea is to try and preserve the classic look of the bike so if I have to sacrifice a few gears on the rear cassette so I can go with this period example of a derailleur then I will do it. I'm not exactly sure what rear derailleur came stock on this bike... anyone know by chance? Here is a pic of what I believe to be the stock derailleur (http://longisland.craigslist.org/bik/2992477283.html)

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