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  1. #1
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    Surly LHT - Is It Time To Change Out My Brakes? (Pictures)

    Some 4,000 KM later, I probably have to change out my brakes. Squealing was constant and I noticed that a small piece of stone was lodged in the brake pads. I am concerned that it ruined my rims. I felt my rims and it did feel slightly rough but not out of the ordinary. The brake pads seem to be thinning out. Someone tell me that my observations are correct.


    Stone was lodged here.


    Uneven brake pad wear.


    Slight shimmering. What does it mean?


    Thinned out.

    What cantilever brakes do you guys suggest? Kool Stop or Avenir Sticky Fingers? I don't really want to spend more money than necessary.

  2. #2
    Fat Guy Rolling dcrowell's Avatar
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    I'm a big fan of the KoolStop salmon pads. I've never tried the Sticky Fingers.

    If you start hearing the noise again, dig the pebble out of the pad. Your rims are probably fine now, but the rocks will cause extra wear.
    Car-Free IT Geek
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  3. #3
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    +1 on Kool Stops. I was amazed at the difference in stopping between my stock LHT pads and a set of KS Eagle 2's. Brake pads are one of those things that once you change them out, you realize how bad you've had it.

    http://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...w-2-brake-pads

  4. #4
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    Uh oh -- threaded or smooth post? I don't know the difference. >_<

  5. #5
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    According to your picture, you have threaded.

  6. #6
    Senior Member tarwheel's Avatar
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    +1 on Kool Stops. You'll never go back to regular pads.

  7. #7
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    yea those,#1 post, basically V brake pads , Bene Sugg :
    get the next set which have a removable insert in the pad holder ,
    then the subsequent pad replacement will just be the insert.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 05-08-12 at 03:26 PM.

  8. #8
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    I mistakenly ordered extra brake pads for V-Types from Kool Stop. They don't fit my cantilever system, fietsbob. Unless you can show me how I can make it work together.

  9. #9
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    A bolt on type as suggested:
    http://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...placeable-pads
    If they are plain post, and you need a long threaded post, and so, are not usable,
    This is a different type brake caliper , that can use plain post brake shoes.
    http://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...ke-caliper-set

    this style is a derivation of Mafac cantilevers, which went on bikes since late the late 40's so rather traditional, by now.

    return them to where you bought them, and exchange them for what you needed.

    now with the sales of Cyclocross bikes , there are 2 sorts of long threaded brake shoe
    differing only in length of pad.. cross forks in the front are a bit narrower,
    so shorter brake shoes favor mid race Tire/wheel changes on the Pit bike.

    same thing with plain post brakes , the TRP are a short shoe,
    the eagle claw is a longer pad.
    They don't fit my cantilever system, fietsbob. Unless you can show me how I can make it work together.
    .. drop on by I'm 150 miles west of Portland Oregon ..

    old hands on guy , not a computer whizz
    Last edited by fietsbob; 05-08-12 at 03:29 PM.

  10. #10
    Professional Fuss-Budget Bacciagalupe's Avatar
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    I try not to get too frantic about brake pads.

    Just glance at the pads a little more frequently, don't wear them past the line, and clean off the rims every once in awhile with rubbing alcohol.

  11. #11
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    Ok, I think I've decided. The V-Type Holders are actually very cool but the cost is a bit much for me [at this very moment]. I think I'll go for the Eagle Claw 2 kind.

    I can't return my pads because I got it like six months ago. If someone wants it, hit me up. I'll ship it to you for cheaper than the store price.

    I'll clean my rims with alcohol before putting in new brake pads. That's a good tip, by the way, to check brakes every now and then. I admittedly didn't do that.

    Thanks to everyone -- I learned some things here.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by yiffzer View Post
    Ok, I think I've decided. The V-Type Holders are actually very cool but the cost is a bit much for me [at this very moment]. I think I'll go for the Eagle Claw 2 kind.

    I can't return my pads because I got it like six months ago. If someone wants it, hit me up. I'll ship it to you for cheaper than the store price.

    I'll clean my rims with alcohol before putting in new brake pads. That's a good tip, by the way, to check brakes every now and then. I admittedly didn't do that.

    Thanks to everyone -- I learned some things here.
    I would also recommend getting getting the Salmon colored pads. It's better for wet and muddy conditions.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by buffaloborn85 View Post
    I would also recommend getting getting the Salmon colored pads. It's better for wet and muddy conditions.
    Is it really that different from black?

  14. #14
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    So which Kool-Stop brake pad IS the better one for replacing the ones pictured by the OP?

    I'm reviving this thread because I also want to replace these EXACT same brake pads, also from a Surly LHT, and this saves me the trouble of taking my own photos.

    I've put Salmon pads on all of the bikes that I've worked on and want to do so again but am not sure which to choose from:

    Mountain Pads: http://www.koolstop.com/english/mountain_pad.html
    Supra2: http://www.koolstop.com/english/supra2.html
    Thinline: http://www.koolstop.com/english/thinline.html
    or Phat Padd: http://www.koolstop.com/english/phat_padd.html

    Quote Originally Posted by yiffzer View Post


    Stone was lodged here.


    Uneven brake pad wear.


    Slight shimmering. What does it mean?


    Thinned out.

  15. #15
    Member Bicycle365's Avatar
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    These are the threaded Salmon Pads

    Salmon / Part Number KS-TLTSA decrypted it works out to ( KS = Kool Stop , TL= Thinline, T= threaded, SA= Salmon)

    Is the Part Number of the Salmon , I have run them on a LHT for 10k + miles. No squeal, no chatter and excellent power and superb modulation in all conditions.

    Paul_NeoRetro_Canti2.jpg

  16. #16
    djb
    djb is online now
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    as well as using softer pads such as kool stop salmon coloured ones, I highly recommend extending the life of your rims and having quieter braking by wiping down your rims after rides in rain. When you get home after a wet ride, all the gritty gunge from the road ends up on your rims, just take 1 min and wipe down the rims with an old rag, you will be suprised how much grit ends up on the rag--ie not staying on your rim and pads, so less abrasive stuff over time, and longer quieter rim and pad life.
    also good to peek at pads sometimes for the stuff that can get embedded in them.

    another reason to be familiar with your bike with regular maintenance and keeping it clean--at least drivetrain and rims in any case. Think of it as not too much time well spent and all the bits and bobs on your bike will work better and last longer (plus we tend to notice stuff that is coming loose more often if we go over our bikes regularly)

  17. #17
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    Have you tried any of the other versions that I've listed before choosing the Thinline?

    I'm sure that I would take all of thirty seconds to decide if I could examine each of these in my hands. I only become hesitant when looking only at companies' product pictures online.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bicycle365 View Post
    Salmon / Part Number KS-TLTSA decrypted it works out to ( KS = Kool Stop , TL= Thinline, T= threaded, SA= Salmon)

    Is the Part Number of the Salmon , I have run them on a LHT for 10k + miles. No squeal, no chatter and excellent power and superb modulation in all conditions.

    Paul_NeoRetro_Canti2.jpg

  18. #18
    Member Bicycle365's Avatar
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    I have not tried the others , I thought about the dual compound Mt pads for my last swap. The little voice in my head was saying " WHY are you going to change from the one you like so much?" . At some point you really need to stop the endless search for the greener pastures and just enjoy what you got.

  19. #19
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    The braking distance is horrible with the current pads on the bike when weighed down with gear.

    I bought the bike used on Craig's List. The seller had the fork replaced after being in an accident in which he also broke his collarbone.

    I definitely can see something like that happening unless I replace those pads.

  20. #20
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    If you have to ask you should change your pads.

  21. #21
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    I've used dual compound in the past with fine results. IT was my thought that the salmon is a softer compound so it's grippier and wears faster but does give better braking. I consider brake pads a dirt cheap consumable. I mean honestly, if you ride your bike everyday like I do, a $50 pair of brake pads 2x a year shouldn't bother you when you consider that people with cars spend that much each week on gas!

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