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  1. #1
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    Need simple touring drop bar, no taper, no cable routing needed, no ergo nonsense....

    I have a thorn equipped w/ a straight bar and want to put on a drop bar.

    However, I don't want the bar tapered (from a bump in the middle), as I have lot's of stuff to mount, including an Arkel Big Bag (which turns out to be really freaking big). Tapered bars mean big portions that can be used to mount gadgets.

    I'd be happy w/ a big, wide aluminum handlebar, something like the "PMT" handlebar on the LHT complete, though I wouldn't mind it a bit wider.

    Ideally, I'd put one of Gilles Berthout's new rohloff shifter on it:
    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gilles-be...ubs-prod27131/

    Does anyone make simple, I think 23.2mm handlebars anymore?

    Thanks,
    pete
    Last edited by northerntier; 05-28-12 at 07:17 PM.

  2. #2
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    i have these at 45cm wide on my serious touring bike and i really like them. they sound close to what you're looking for:

    Nitto B-115 Road - 25.4/42cm - Silver
    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...6&currency=USD

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by brooklyn_bike View Post
    i have these at 45cm wide on my serious touring bike and i really like them. they sound close to what you're looking for:

    Nitto B-115 Road - 25.4/42cm - Silver
    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...6&currency=USD
    I ran across those earlier today and thought they looked promising. How wide is the central region?

  4. #4
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    those look to be about as simple as they ever made them. i'm surprised they are still available new.

  5. #5
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Only an 'oversize' bar would be 'tapered' very far off center.

    I have Nitto bars, but they're center-sleeved,[11cm long]
    not a short bulged center .
    [mine: the setup is bar end shifters..on it.]

    But, I use trekking bars with both my Rohloff hub bikes .

    (26 & 20" wheels)
    Last edited by fietsbob; 05-31-12 at 12:57 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by northerntier View Post
    I ran across those earlier today and thought they looked promising. How wide is the central region?
    I have B115's in 45cm. A more basic drop bar you're not likely to find. The straight part of the 'tops' is 12 inches wide.

    005 (Large).jpg

  7. #7
    Senior Member Chris Pringle's Avatar
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    What Thorn model do you have? Just a word of caution... I believe reading on their website how they discourage using drop bars or even worse trekking bars on several of their models. The geometry on these bikes (eg., Nomad, Raven) are optimized for straight MTB-style handlebars. You may use drop bars, but they strongly recommend choosing a type of handlebar first before choosing the proper size frame for a comfortable fit, especially if you're thinking about going on a long trip.

  8. #8
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    You change the stem to change the reach distance relationship
    of the bars and seat.
    So remove levers, bar and stem as a unit,
    [stem would be for a 1" bar?]
    Or did they build it up with oversize stuff?

    and if TT is long, get a shorter stem, and in 26mm for Nitto Road bars.
    I'd set the reach up so the brake hoods on the road bar's,
    are as far away from the saddle as the grips on the flat bars were.

    SJS has an accessory carrying T 'stem' to stack like a spacer,
    under the stem with the bars in it,
    there is where you can load up all the bar mounted stuff.

    I used a 2 stem stack, to move My Handlebar bag down
    and closer to the steerer axis.
    I keep shortening the reach as I get Older.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 05-31-12 at 01:06 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    You change the stem to change the reach distance relationship
    of the bars and seat.
    So remove levers, bar and stem as a unit,
    [stem would be for a 1" bar?]
    Or did they build it up with oversize stuff?

    and if TT is long, get a shorter stem, and in 26mm for Nitto Road bars.
    I'm actually using an insanely long stem right now w/ the flat bar. Handlebars are about 1.5" further from bars to saddle on this bike than on my surly LHT.

    I did order a 46cm nitto noodle, and two thorn accessory bars, one 55 and one 110. I'd like to mount the handlebar bag on the bar under the handlebars, but it will probably interfere w/ the generator light. I'll be redoing the cabling anyway, so that isn't an issue. I think I'm just going to keep the same brake levers, as I used the cross levers on my LHT almost exclusively. In other words, no brakes on drops. The one thing I don't like about this is that it potentially removes a hand position. However, if the bars are tilted up 10 degrees, as rivendell's site recommends, it shouldn't be an issue.

    I used cork ergon grips on my flat bar. It took a week after my last tour ended before my fingertips stopped feeling a bit numb. Part of this is probably because I was too stretched out, putting too much weight on the bars. But the cork just didn't provide any cushioning. Cool for riding around town, but not good for a tour.

  10. #10
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    If you only use brake levers on the tops, you can't ride with your hands on the hoods because you won't have any hoods. You might consider getting everything assembled and riding it for a week or two before you put on handlebar tape because I think you are going to be changing your mind on what you want for brake levers within a week or two.

    We are still curious which Thorn you got and what size.

  11. #11
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I'm actually using an insanely long stem right now w/ the flat bar.
    I use a very short stem with Trekking bars, or drop bars , myself..
    as high as the saddle itself..
    trekking bars are set up to be a bit higher than the saddle ..

    I have a set of 3 piece flat bars for my Bike Friday still a short stem..

    like I say pull the stem off , taking bars with it ,
    and start over with the right combination,

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