Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,294
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    How long should a rear wheel last?

    I was prepping my bike for a tour that starts Friday. I guess I should have done that last week because I notice cracks in the rim around two of the spoke, that were several spokes apart.



    I ordered the Mavic rim in May 2008 so I probably have 7K-8K on the rim. That is touring and just every day riding miles. Touring miles on the rim maybe 2K or so.

    Has this rim lived it's useful life or should I have gotten some more miles out of it?
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  2. #2
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    On the road-USA
    My Bikes
    Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
    Posts
    16,075
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Sounds a bit on the low side for miles to me, but there are a lot of variables. How many loaded miles, how heavy is the rider, what type of weather/road conditions, what is the spoke count on the rim, etc. I typically wear out the brake surface on mine before anything else lets go. I seemed to replace rims about every 12,000 miles (19,000 km) which was about once every couple of years. These were usually the heavier duty rims used on my utility/touring bikes. On one bike with steel rims I have never replaced the rims and it has somewhere over 30,000 miles on it. On my city bikes I use roller/drum/coaster brakes and the rims, theoretically, should last indefinitely. Race bikes all bets were off, running the lightest, lowest spoke count rims we could get away with.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  3. #3
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Zang's Spur, CO
    Posts
    6,241
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Cracking around spoke holes can be a symptom of a bad wheel build with too much spoke tension.

  4. #4
    <riding now> BigAura's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Chapin, SC
    My Bikes
    surly LHT, surly CC, trek 5000, paris sport fixie (my 1970 bike...repurposed
    Posts
    1,295
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I say buy a new wheel before your tour. Sell (or give) the old wheel to anyone thinks they can squeeze some more miles from it.

  5. #5
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,294
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BigAura View Post
    I say buy a new wheel before your tour. Sell (or give) the old wheel to anyone thinks they can squeeze some more miles from it.
    Already on order. Had to paty for rush shipping but that is the way it goes.
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  6. #6
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,294
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Shimagnolo View Post
    Cracking around spoke holes can be a symptom of a bad wheel build with too much spoke tension.
    How can I check that?
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  7. #7
    Professional Fuss-Budget Bacciagalupe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    6,275
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'd also think a rim should last 20,000 - 30,000 miles of normal road use. Not sure about off-road.

    Touring shouldn't harm the rim, unless you are literally loading the bike down beyond its limits.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Zang's Spur, CO
    Posts
    6,241
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by spinnaker View Post
    How can I check that?
    Put a tension meter on the spokes.

  9. #9
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,294
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Shimagnolo View Post
    Put a tension meter on the spokes.


    Guess I'll need to pick one up or borrow one. I guess it is moot anyway. The LBS laced them up for me. They could say they were right when they went out the door.

    I might try contacting Mavic to see what they say or maybe CO Cyclist where I got the wheels originally. I made the mistake of getting to narrow a gauge of spoke when I ordered the wheel and had it relaced by the LBS.
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  10. #10
    Senior Member staehpj1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Parkville, Md
    Posts
    7,469
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The choice of whether to replace might depend on the length of the tour and the availability of parts along the way. Personally, on a longish tour I wouldn't find it to be too big a deal to lace on a new rim assuming one was available and on a shortish tour I figure that the rim would be very unlikely to fail completely if it was showing no warning signs at the start. So unless there were some signs of impending failure I wouldn't replace a rim in preparation for most tours even if it was a multi-month tour. That said I do not tour in third world countries or other places more remote than the American West, so parts typically can be had if needed.

    Cracks around the spoke holes are a sign of impending failure though. BTW, they are not necessarily the result of over tensioning.

  11. #11
    Senior Member ijsbrand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    the Low countries
    Posts
    213
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by spinnaker View Post
    I notice cracks in the rim around two of the spoke, that were several spokes apart.

    I ordered the Mavic rim in May 2008 so I probably have 7K-8K on the rim.
    Mavic rims typically are made from a harder and thus more brittle aluminium than rims from other brands. So, they're prone to crack, in my experience, if the wheel maker doesn't account for this.

  12. #12
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Denver, CO
    My Bikes
    Some silver ones, a black one, a red one, an orange one and a couple of titanium ones
    Posts
    15,303
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by staehpj1 View Post
    Cracks around the spoke holes are a sign of impending failure though. BTW, they are not necessarily the result of over tensioning.
    +1 Cracks can form from loose spokes that tension and detension during rotation. The tension/detension cycle flexes the aluminum of the rim and can cause it to fail.
    Stuart Black
    Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
    Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
    Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
    Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
    An Good Ol' Fashion Appalachian Butt Whoopin'.

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Madison, WI
    My Bikes
    2004 LHT, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad, 1961 Ideor, 1972 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, Perfekt 3 Speed of unknown age.
    Posts
    1,112
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I saw that you already ordered a wheel, but another option would have been to just buy a new rim of the same model.

    Loosen all spokes, tape a new rim (same model, thus the same spoke length) to the old rim putting the inner tube valve holes together. Then transfer one spoke from the old rim to the new rim, one spoke at a time. You obviously would have to transfer spokes from one side of the hub before the spokes from the other side of the hub. Then true it up. Takes patience, I generally budget an hour to true up a new wheel after I have it laced. Transferring one spoke from rim to rim at a time is also time consuming, probably a couple hours. It is a good way to learn without the complications of learning to lace the wheel.

    I assume the rear is the one that cracked. Truing up a new wheel is much better to learn the first time on an undished front wheel, but you can learn on a back if you are a bit more patient. If it is the rear, you may want to remove the cassette first if it is covered with dirty grease.

    I do not have a truing stand, for decades I have use the frame and brake pads. A truing stand makes it a lot easier, but is not absolutely necessary.

  14. #14
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,294
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
    I saw that you already ordered a wheel, but another option would have been to just buy a new rim of the same model.

    Loosen all spokes, tape a new rim (same model, thus the same spoke length) to the old rim putting the inner tube valve holes together. Then transfer one spoke from the old rim to the new rim, one spoke at a time. You obviously would have to transfer spokes from one side of the hub before the spokes from the other side of the hub. Then true it up. Takes patience, I generally budget an hour to true up a new wheel after I have it laced. Transferring one spoke from rim to rim at a time is also time consuming, probably a couple hours. It is a good way to learn without the complications of learning to lace the wheel.

    I assume the rear is the one that cracked. Truing up a new wheel is much better to learn the first time on an undished front wheel, but you can learn on a back if you are a bit more patient. If it is the rear, you may want to remove the cassette first if it is covered with dirty grease.

    I do not have a truing stand, for decades I have use the frame and brake pads. A truing stand makes it a lot easier, but is not absolutely necessary.
    Didn't have time. I leave on Friday for a tour. But I just might do this. It would be a good skill to learn.
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  15. #15
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,294
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
    +1 Cracks can form from loose spokes that tension and detension during rotation. The tension/detension cycle flexes the aluminum of the rim and can cause it to fail.

    So I should have the spoke tension checked or at least check it myself every so often?

    Or is this a constant process detension / tension? How does the wheel stay true?


    And where have you been?
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  16. #16
    Senior Member staehpj1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Parkville, Md
    Posts
    7,469
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by spinnaker View Post
    Didn't have time. I leave on Friday for a tour. But I just might do this. It would be a good skill to learn.
    Funny, I think of that as a quick easy method. The last time I did it I think it was 15-20 minutes total. I wouldn't consider it a big problem to do the swap even on tour. The only problem is that it can be tough to find an appropriate rim when on the road. I guess if I had never built or trued a wheel I might be intimidated by it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •