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  1. #26
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    Ah, Where would one measure that? soon as I know I could do that for you. since we share the same frame...
    to every climb there is always the other side

  2. #27
    Infinite Member ahsposo's Avatar
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    If you've got a metric ruler you could tell me the width of the BB shell and the spread of the rear dropouts (inside).

    Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by toddles View Post
    If I gotta look up words, it's not worth my time.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
    If you've got a metric ruler you could tell me the width of the BB shell and the spread of the rear dropouts (inside).

    Thanks.
    What is the width measurement though? through or across the shell?
    to every climb there is always the other side

  4. #29
    Senior Member GeorgeBaby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by draig View Post
    What is the width measurement though? through or across the shell?
    Width is in-line with the axle -- for most bikes, it should be either 68 or 73mm.

  5. #30
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    one last thing, would you want the wheel spacing in cm or mm? cause cm is 13.5 and mm 135.
    BB comes out to 68mm
    to every climb there is always the other side

  6. #31
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    oh, Oh, OH! I measured the wrong thing (doh) one moment I'll get the correct on for the dropout...

    Turns out I did measure the right thing. it is 135mm spread for the dropouts
    Last edited by draig; 10-08-12 at 10:27 PM. Reason: new info
    to every climb there is always the other side

  7. #32
    Infinite Member ahsposo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. You saved me a return with the wheels.
    Quote Originally Posted by toddles View Post
    If I gotta look up words, it's not worth my time.

  8. #33
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    No problem ^^ glad to help ya
    to every climb there is always the other side

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by draig View Post
    Turns out I did measure the right thing. it is 135mm spread for the dropouts
    I think the spread is actually 132.5mm. Or at least it was when I bought the frame 2-3 years ago. I've used both road (130mm) and mountain (135mm) hubs with this frame.

  10. #35
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    GAH! I was gonna order those Dimension Trekking bars later this evening just to find out their discontinued. Guess I'll just have to work with the Nashbar one irregardless
    to every climb there is always the other side

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    I'm fine with the 2 types I use .. the bikes have Mountain bike brake levers
    one has hydraulic brakes, and The Rohloff grip shifters..
    that wont fit on a bar that is bigger than 22.2mm..

    my setup the trekking bars are relatively flat, and I often use an open palm
    laying across the ends, and not so much a grip like the baseball bat will
    fly out of my hands , if I relax.
    Does it matter what brand I get for trekking bars quality wise?
    to every climb there is always the other side

  12. #37
    Senior Member megalowmatt's Avatar
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    draig - how far along are you on your build? I would like to see some pictures

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by megalowmatt View Post
    draig - how far along are you on your build? I would like to see some pictures
    Not to far actually, I got the frame, tires, stem, and rear rack. I'm gonna have to wait till the end of the month to pick up a fork. I prolly won't be actually putting much on it till later next month.

    But, I will post pics as I get stuff put on it.
    to every climb there is always the other side

  14. #39
    Senior Member megalowmatt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by draig View Post
    Not to far actually, I got the frame, tires, stem, and rear rack. I'm gonna have to wait till the end of the month to pick up a fork. I prolly won't be actually putting much on it till later next month.

    But, I will post pics as I get stuff put on it.
    Sounds good. I built up one of those frames last year and it's a great bike.

  15. #40
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    Coolness ^^ I can hardly wait to get started. I've been working on my shopping list (disguised as a wishlist on Amazon ) I got all of the required things on that list. I pulled my rear rack off my current bike (i use messanger bags and backpacks more, and will prolly get a trailer for utility use). I'm undecided of putting mirrors on backwards bar ends or helmet mounted rear mirror though... I'm used to both handlebar and helmet rear views (mircycle on my handlebar, Third eye helmet before) oh, the mount on the mirrcycle is in the tube of my handlebar (gotten from amazon I think)
    Last edited by draig; 10-19-12 at 06:53 PM.
    to every climb there is always the other side

  16. #41
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    I have another question for people here. I've looked into those Harris built wheels and their presta drilled, my prefference is shraeder drilled. any suggestions for 700c?
    to every climb there is always the other side

  17. #42
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    You can always buy the Presta wheels and enlarge the hole to fit a Schrader valve. I forget what size drill bit you need, but I'm sure someone here or in the Mechanics forum could tell you.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by draig View Post
    I have another question for people here. I've looked into those Harris built wheels and their presta drilled, my prefference is shraeder drilled. any suggestions for 700c?
    Drilling out the hole is perhaps the best option. Another is to pick up a Schrader/Presta adapter at a bike shop.

    Brad

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by draig View Post
    I've been looking around for cranks right now and cassettes but I'm getting myself confused. I know I'd want a tripe crank. Some of them say their only compatible with 10-speed is that the cassette? meaning it would wind up be 30 gears? or would that be a cassette of 5 rings (if they still make those)?

    Also, I'm flip/flopping betwenn Sram and Shimano cranks. what's all your experiences with each?
    They would not mean that it works with a 5 speed freewheel or cluster, they would be talking about a crankset that has chainrings that are thin enough that they work with the thinner chains that are sold as 10 speed chains.

    I am using a Campy 10 speed crankset with an 8 speed Shimano cassette and 8 speed compatible chain. I used some thin washers to account for the thinner chainrings. I think I used Wheels Manufacturing washers (or spacers or shims or whatever you want to call them) instead of the ones at this link however, but that was several years ago so I could be wrong on my source for them.
    http://branfordbike.com/itemdetails.cfm?id=808

    I can't say with certainty that such washers are appropriate with other manufacturers of cranksets. But if you get a 10 speed crankset from a different manufacturer and it does not seem to work right with a thicker chain, try it.

  20. #45
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I have another question for people here. I've looked into those Harris built wheels and their presta drilled, my prefference is shraeder drilled.
    you can always buy the Presta wheels and enlarge the hole to fit a Schrader valve.
    A tapered hand reamer works fine, ream till your stem fits.

    Found drilling has a significant de burring, with a rat-tail file .. to clean up the hole edges.
    hand reamer may take less clean-up.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 10-21-12 at 01:12 PM.

  21. #46
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Does it matter what brand I get for trekking bars quality wise?
    If you are in the $20 or thereabouts price range,
    they are all similar , some are finished ,
    Black or Clear anodized, a few dye the anodizing. [vs paint]

    ITM and Modolo are Italian Imports , sourcing those in the US
    may need direct retail importation from Europe
    BBB is a NL company , they have a wholesaler, Bike Mine, in OKC
    Your Local shop would need to open an account.

    Wall Bike's stock is sold-out , several years ago, I got some Koga ITM. bars from them .

  22. #47
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    Tourism, that was clarified to me awhile ago, thanks anyways. I now know what I'll be getting drivetrain wise ^^
    fietbob, coolness! I won't have to get more tools, I got something that may work as a reamer. and I can get ahold of a file I think for cleanup. I'd rather punch a larger hole than get an adapter.

    Also, I was undecided as to the Nashbar trekking ones or the black ones at Harris. I think I'll get Harris though (next month.)

    Update too. tomorrow after I put this pay (from day work) on my CC I'll be ordering that Nashbar fork.

    Oh btw, fietbob. which way would you suggest I ream from. inside the rim outwards or the other way around?
    Last edited by draig; 10-21-12 at 08:06 PM.
    to every climb there is always the other side

  23. #48
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    Inside out is better. At the end of the day, it needs to be clean all around, but any burrs you push out are easier to deal with on the outside, and if you happened to miss something, it would better if it was on the outside.

    If you have the right rat tail file you can twist it, even run it in a drill, and it will naturally act like a proper reamer. However, files are hard so do not shatter it, a lot of oil would be a good idea if you run it slowly under power, and wear face protection, etc...

    Hey, were are the dang picture. I just got one of the frames at a price that is cheaper than powder coating one of my own builds. I have been without a touring frame, and with a huge pile of parts for too long. I have ogled "this" frame for like 30 years, so it will be fun, and then I will probably pass the frame on. When I get the next build done. I am going to do some serious measurements, and list them in the review section at Nashbar, it is pretty amazing how bad their numbers are. A big one they have always hidden was the BB drop. I finally got that up (it is so high you could run this on 26" wheel if you could run the brakes.) Then they changed the frame, and back to the drawing board. If you are running something other than the 58, you might give some thought to putting up more numbers also. Only takes a few minutes.
    Last edited by MassiveD; 10-23-12 at 01:13 AM.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by MassiveD View Post
    Inside out is better. At the end of the day, it needs to be clean all around, but any burrs you push out are easier to deal with on the outside, and if you happened to miss something, it would better if it was on the outside.

    If you have the right rat tail file you can twist it, even run it in a drill, and it will naturally act like a proper reamer. However, files are hard so do not shatter it, a lot of oil would be a good idea if you run it slowly under power, and wear face protection, etc...

    Hey, were are the dang picture
    . I just got one of the frames at a price that is cheaper than powder coating one of my own builds. I have been without a touring frame, and with a huge pile of parts for too long. I have ogled "this" frame for like 30 years, so it will be fun, and then I will probably pass the frame on. When I get the next build done. I am going to do some serious measurements, and list them in the review section at Nashbar, it is pretty amazing how bad their numbers are. A big one they have always hidden was the BB drop. I finally got that up (it is so high you could run this on 26" wheel if you could run the brakes.) Then they changed the frame, and back to the drawing board. If you are running something other than the 58, you might give some thought to putting up more numbers also. Only takes a few minutes.
    I'm waiting to get some things on the frame to take pictures, like i said before. I'll do so when I get my headset. that way it's more than just loose parts. And I also got the 58 frame, plus I don't know how to measure the things.

    Hope your build goes well MassiveD. I ordered my fork yesterday and expect it Thursday. and I'll be ordering that headset tomorrow (don't know when it'll arrive.
    to every climb there is always the other side

  25. #50
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    Update on my build. I'm going to my LBS today and getting a headset this afternoon, my fork isn't expected till Monday though. I'll take and post a pic after I get the front end set up.
    to every climb there is always the other side

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