Using my high dollar, ultra-precise hardware store yardstick, my '95 Trek 830 has 435mm (17 1/8") chainstays. Give or take a couple of mm. I bought it to do a touring conversion, and as soon as I unfrak the brakes, I'll start riding it and swapping parts as I can.
I obviously haven't toured on it yet, but that's the plan.
Also, found this a few pages back, a "Show your MTB Touring Conversions Thread". I found it pretty inspirational.
Last edited by k_randomfactor; 12-26-12 at 04:55 PM. Reason: added stuff and link
"I want to see the wild country again before I die, and the Mountains..."
I'm curious about sizing one of these bikes--do you size them a bit larger than you would a regular MTB? Or do you just size them the same way?
I go by Effective Top Tube Length, not 'size' (which is seat tube length)
I am going to get a 21" frame although my MTB sizing is 19.5.
I used to have a mid-80s KHS Montana that would have made a great touring bike. Lugged frame with long chainstays and the following braze-ons: 2 water bottle cage eyelets, frame pump mounts (behind the seat tube), fender mounts, rear rack eyelets, and even mid-fork eyelets for a front rack. Unfortunately, the frame I had was too small for me, so I sold it.
Last edited by Brennan; 12-29-12 at 04:02 PM.
The only bike I've ever toured on is a Specialized Hard Rock Sport. The first one was a 1995, which was a beautiful Midnight Blue. Sadly, it was lost in a river that was nearing flood stage. After losing that I got a new one, a 1998, which I still own and which has many thousands of touring miles under its belt. The chainstay on that one is only 425 mm (16.7 inches) but I have no trouble with heel strike as long as I keep the front side of the rear panniers even with the axle, which hasn't been a problem. It has 170mm cranks and I have size 10.5 feet.
Before both of those I owned another Hard Rock which was stolen. It was a 1989 (no bikepedia listings that old) and I never toured on it, but I'm sure it would have toured as well as the other two.
ETA: When I did my first tour in 1995 my girlfriend (at the time) rode her Trek 970, which she had toured on previously. It worked very well for her. I believe it was a 1993, photo below.
Last edited by simplygib; 12-29-12 at 06:20 PM.
Orange seemed to have stopped making the P7 for 2013, it is a high-end steel old-skool MTB perfect for adventurous touring.
Schwinn High Sierra
Raleigh Mountain Tour
All of these are set up for Mountain touring.
As far as Bridgestones, I would look for mid 80's Bridgestone as the late 80's have become very expensive and have short chainstays.
I like under chainstay u-brakes as they don't interfere with your bags.
Thanks for all the replies. List updated.
Parker, what year are these bikes you mentioned?
Have you ever had any problems with the U-brakes getting filled with mud because of their positioning and losing stopping power?
This Cimarron is an 86.
I have never had any issues with mud and ubrakes. I use my front brake 95 percent of the time anyway. On my rollercam brake, I have a cover for the cams that is supposed to keep mud out. If the mud is that bad it is going to be bad for your cantis too. Fenders will also get in the way.
Current, winter & utility & Touring bike that might qualify for list, is my Giant, Rincon.
I think you may have already eliminated the Trek850 from consideration but I thought I'd post my recent conversion of a 1988 Trek 850 (weird lower brakes and all)
David Green, Naperville, IL USA "The older I get, the better I used to be" --Lee Trevino
I picked up a Raleigh Crested Butte, part of the "Mountain Tour" series, a few months ago. Haven't really had a chance to test its touring abilities, but I want to use it for some dirt touring this summer.
As I got it:
After all the changes:
http://urbanadventureleague.blogspot.com/ http://societyofthreespeeds.wordpress.com/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/urbanadventureleaguepdx/
mparker326, thanks for posting that Cimarron photo. I picked up one of those forks at a co-op and have always wondered what it came from. Interesting frame.
Surly LHT complete, Surly Pacer Complete, '94 Marin Muirwoods....and a couple others
OK, not quite a MTB and not a road bike. Here's my '90 Bridgestone CB-0 (CB-Zip), predecessor to the well regarded XO-1 and sometimes referred to as "the poor man's XO-1". Anyway, I built the Zip up a few years ago and now she has thousands of touring miles on her. On the road and fully loaded she can do it all. She love dirt fire trails. And when performing duties at home she's an amazing all-rounder. Sometimes she puts on her Mustache bars and pretends she a high-class bike! Anyway, here are a few pics of my CB-Zipper.
I should add that the CB-0 has double-butted Tange MTB tubing throughout and the chainstays are nice and long. She's an amazing go-anywhere touring rig.
Last edited by VeloVeg; 01-15-13 at 08:23 AM. Reason: to add additional info
On the lower end of the MTB rung, Ross 1000, have one, and dimensions same as Surly LHT, in 58cm, but heavier.
pre 1990 high end Fuji and KHS with lugged steel frame.
"Whenever I see an adult riding a bicycle, I know there is hope for mankind." (H. G. Wells)
If you are mostly after a frame the Nashbar Touring bike frame regularly gets as low as 80 bucks, and commonly 100. The only serious knock on it is that it looks to have been designed primarily by someone who was familiar with MTB geometry, but given the thread, I gather this would not be a negative.
I don't know my mountain bike sizing but i normally ride a 25 inch road bike I have 23 inch High Plains that i seem to have trouble getting comfortable on.(hand pain). Do I just need to mess with my cockpit some more? Do they even make older mountain frames any bigger than 23 inch?
Soma Saga, Bianchi single speed conversion
2001 Univega Modo Vivere, Schwinn S(9 five.2) mountain bike