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  1. #51
    Senior Member mparker326's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by manicmike View Post
    I don't know my mountain bike sizing but i normally ride a 25 inch road bike I have 23 inch High Plains that i seem to have trouble getting comfortable on.(hand pain). Do I just need to mess with my cockpit some more? Do they even make older mountain frames any bigger than 23 inch?
    23 is about as big as it gets. There are a few older Treks that claimed to be bigger, but I've never seen one in person. A MTB's bottom bracket is usually a couple inches higher than a road bike. So your top tube on a 23 inch MTB will be close to the top tube on your 25 inch road bike.

    I ride a 23 inch MTB's and I always swap out stems. The old MTB stems are usually too low and stretched out for me. I like a Nitto Dirtdrop to get the bars up and closer to me.

  2. #52
    Junior Member
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    1992 Klein Pinnacle and 1995 Chris Chance Road Bike
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    OK, so may be hard to find and has a little old-school cachet, but I use my 92 Klein Pinnacle for touring and commuting. I've many tours, including a 4000 mile trip around Europe on it. I don't have pics with me. But it is a solid aluminum frame that wont bust and rides great! Is it as comfy as steel? No. BUT, when you ride hard, no matter how much load you have on it, you don't feel any flex from the load being swung around.

  3. #53
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    Thanks, I also may try some expedition bars, folks seem to have some luck with those(and they are cheap!).
    Soma Saga, Bianchi single speed conversion
    2001 Univega Modo Vivere, Schwinn S(9 five.2) mountain bike

  4. #54
    Senior Member
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    How about Trek 850 Antelope?

  5. #55
    Senior Member DVC45's Avatar
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    Trek 900



    Last edited by DVC45; 01-17-13 at 12:04 PM.

  6. #56
    Si Senior dbg's Avatar
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    Cool 900. Same geometry as the 1988 Trek 850. Straight gauge Tange #5 tubes, but no chainstay mounted U-brakes.
    David Green, Naperville, IL USA "The older I get, the better I used to be" --Lee Trevino

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbg View Post
    I think you may have already eliminated the Trek850 from consideration but I thought I'd post my recent conversion of a 1988 Trek 850 (weird lower brakes and all)



    I didn't eliminate it, I just suggested that the chainstay U-brake might not be ideal.

    Your 850 is gorgeous, I really dig the color.. It has been added to the list

    Quote Originally Posted by VeloVeg View Post
    OK, not quite a MTB and not a road bike. Here's my '90 Bridgestone CB-0 (CB-Zip), predecessor to the well regarded XO-1 and sometimes referred to as "the poor man's XO-1". Anyway, I built the Zip up a few years ago and now she has thousands of touring miles on her. On the road and fully loaded she can do it all. She love dirt fire trails. And when performing duties at home she's an amazing all-rounder. Sometimes she puts on her Mustache bars and pretends she a high-class bike! Anyway, here are a few pics of my CB-Zipper.

    I should add that the CB-0 has double-butted Tange MTB tubing throughout and the chainstays are nice and long. She's an amazing go-anywhere touring rig.
    WOohoo! That's a pretty bridgestone. Added to the list.

    Quote Originally Posted by WMcCready View Post
    On the lower end of the MTB rung, Ross 1000, have one, and dimensions same as Surly LHT, in 58cm, but heavier.
    Thanks.. ANy geometry matching the surly will make a good touring bike

    Quote Originally Posted by MassiveD View Post
    If you are mostly after a frame the Nashbar Touring bike frame regularly gets as low as 80 bucks, and commonly 100. The only serious knock on it is that it looks to have been designed primarily by someone who was familiar with MTB geometry, but given the thread, I gather this would not be a negative.
    I have been hearing alot about these. I will add it to the list in a subcategory as it's not really a MTB, it's a cheap, highly functional touring frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by mohatt View Post
    OK, so may be hard to find and has a little old-school cachet, but I use my 92 Klein Pinnacle for touring and commuting. I've many tours, including a 4000 mile trip around Europe on it. I don't have pics with me. But it is a solid aluminum frame that wont bust and rides great! Is it as comfy as steel? No. BUT, when you ride hard, no matter how much load you have on it, you don't feel any flex from the load being swung around.
    Something like this?


    Thanks and added!

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVC45 View Post
    Trek 900



    Perfect! Added.


    Also here is a picture of the Nashbar touring frame.


  9. #59
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    Giant ATX 980 for the dual suspension crowd. Nice heavy duty alum frame. Made mine into a touring bike which i used for years.
    Salsa Fargo for the 29" crowd. Put some Big Apples on it and have a ball.

  10. #60
    Junior Member
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    Yes, exactly. I wish I had a picture of mine on me. I'll try to upload one this week. But here is one for sale that is the same paint scheme as mine: http://s59.beta.photobucket.com/user...Klein%20Flames

  11. #61
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by steltz02 View Post
    Something like this?


    Thanks and added!
    Yes, exactly. I wish I had a picture of mine on me. I'll try to upload one this week. But here is one for sale that is the same paint scheme as mine: http://s59.beta.photobucket.com/user...Klein%20Flames

  12. #62
    Senior Member DVC45's Avatar
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    I never get a chance to actually go on a tour on mine.
    For those who had, how do these conversions perform fully loaded? Do they get shimmy?
    Last edited by DVC45; 01-30-13 at 08:27 PM.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVC45 View Post
    I never get a chance to actually go on a tour on mine.
    For those who had, how do these conversions perform fully loaded? Do they get shimmy?
    Hopefully some people chime in on this DVC.

    I am building up two mountain bikes for a multi year tour. We ended up with a 23" Jamis Dakota for myself and a 1985 Specialized Rockhopper for my buddy.

    I will be posting pictures and updates as I go along, including costs.... and unexpected costs.





    I paid $80 for each frame...

    Replacement was needed for derailleurs on both bikes, both bottom brackets, both wheelsets, both sets of handlebars, and the crank only on the Jamis.. More expenses will be incurred.

    The wheelsets I ended up with were 36H Sun Rhinolites on Shimano LX touring Hubs. $200 / set with 30 extra spokes. No one has a stock 36H in 26" these days for a reasonable price, so I got this custom build by bicyclewheels.com; not a bad price considering it's a custom job.

    Thanks for all the contributions to this thread.

    Edit: More pictures of the originals..




    It's amazing how similar the Jamis geometry is to the Surly LHT geometry. I will take a picture of the two side by side at some point.


    Last edited by steltz02; 01-28-13 at 03:57 PM.

  14. #64
    Senior Member DVC45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVC45 View Post
    I never get a chance to actually go on a tour on mine.
    For those who had, how do these conversions perform fully loaded? Do they get shimmy?
    Anyone?

  15. #65
    Goes to 11. striknein's Avatar
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    Older mountain bikes have a goodly amount of trail, which lend themselves to a more stable ride while loaded. However, most manufacturers after 89 started to tighten up their front end geometry significantly, which can cause some problems.

    Like all things bicycle, the answer is nuanced. It's not a one-size-fits-all proposition.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    I actually just run calipers. Levers are for scrubs.

  16. #66
    Senior Member DVC45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by striknein View Post
    Older mountain bikes have a goodly amount of trail, which lend themselves to a more stable ride while loaded. However, most manufacturers after 89 started to tighten up their front end geometry significantly, which can cause some problems.

    Like all things bicycle, the answer is nuanced. It's not a one-size-fits-all proposition.
    Oh, okay. So, '89 and below has a fair amount of trail. What about flex? Does the bike get noodly when loaded? Much more than a true touring bike?

  17. #67
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by striknein View Post
    Older mountain bikes have a goodly amount of trail, which lend themselves to a more stable ride while loaded. However, most manufacturers after 89 started to tighten up their front end geometry significantly, which can cause some problems.

    Like all things bicycle, the answer is nuanced. It's not a one-size-fits-all proposition.
    I'm curious, what about if you replace a suspension fork on a modern bike like a Hardrock with a standard length rigid fork? The fork will be shorter so how does that affect the ride?
    "When dealing with stuff like this consider that this is a bicycle, not a spaceship." -- FBinNY

  18. #68
    Senior Member DVC45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobotech View Post
    I'm curious, what about if you replace a suspension fork on a modern bike like a Hardrock with a standard length rigid fork? The fork will be shorter so how does that affect the ride?
    You should really replace it with a suspension corrected fork (corrected for lenght). I would imagine the ride quality would be really bad, if you don't.

  19. #69
    Senior Member WMcCready's Avatar
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    Giant Rincon ( my size 22") . The current all a rounderDSCN0598.jpg
    Mcpedlpwr

  20. #70
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    Here's my all rounder: a 1992 Schwinn Frontier, 23"

    Good points: lugged double butted chromoly frame, long chainstays, nice geometry overall. The stock drivetrain is great for touring: 48/36/26t crankset, Shimano 200GS derailleurs (decent) and a 13-30t 7 speed cassette.

    Bad points: no lowrider mounts up front though the fork is double-eyeletted, and no upper braze-ons for a rack, though mine included a nice adapter for the brake bridge that seems to be working just fine. It also has a very high bottom bracket, but so far I haven't noticed any ill effects.

    Things I added: WTB Dirt Drops on the stock stem, Ultegra 7/8 speed barcons (modified to fit), saddle, racks and Origin8 Lo-Pro canti brakes.

    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

  21. #71
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    Very useful thread, thanks to Steltz for initiating it for all those who have contributed.

    At the risk of hijacking it slightly I was hoping for a bit of advise...I'm considering a 1992 Kona cindercone as a touring conversion, any thoughts would be much appreciated, following are links to a pic (not the actual bike I'm looking at but same model and year) and to the geometry statistics- I'm looking at the 20 inch frame and I'm 6'2:

    http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=158214


    http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/12109-1/91Outer3.jpg


    By the way, this retrobike website seems like it could be a good place to pic up second hand mtbs at decent prices, cheers, Will

  22. #72
    Junior Member biketourings's Avatar
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    Nashbar Mountain Bike frame build, Nashbar touring bike frame build, refurbished Puch Bergmeister, Motobecane Prestige, Dahon Mariner, Razeesa Road bike, Spiegel Airman Cruiser, Diamondback Ascent EX MTB, Vista Summit steel lugged commuter bike,
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    Diamond Back Ascent EX with third bottle braze ons

    I found this Diamond Back Ascent EX for my wife, she loves it after putting her Brooks saddle on it and rear rack. Note the third water bottle holder under down tube. Planning on changing out the handlebars for her but for now it's original.
    911053_orig.jpg

    http://biketourings.com/3/post/2013/...by-rideon.html

  23. #73
    Junior Member biketourings's Avatar
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    Nashbar Mountain Bike frame build, Nashbar touring bike frame build, refurbished Puch Bergmeister, Motobecane Prestige, Dahon Mariner, Razeesa Road bike, Spiegel Airman Cruiser, Diamondback Ascent EX MTB, Vista Summit steel lugged commuter bike,
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    Nashbar Mountain Bike for Touring, Very Inexpensive.


  24. #74
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Kuwahara - One of the best Japanese builders who also built bicycles under contract for other companies.

    Look for their Japanese built frames with double, triple, and quad butted frames, Kenji script that says "hand built", and straight chainstays which all indicate a higher production level.

    My Cascade is an '87... it continued to be sold as an Expedition bike (frame only) for quite some years after it was no longer offered as a complete build... it was a $900.00 bicycle when it was new and production numbers seem to be quite low compared to the Shasta which was a step down the ladder (parts wise) but it had an equally beautiful frame.

    Was originally equipped with Deore level parts and has a quad butted Ishiwata mtb frame and I have changed up / upgraded a good number of parts... I wore out the original wheels after 25,000 km and now it rolls on custom built wheels.

    The Shimano chainstay brake has not caused me any issues over 40,000 km of cycling... the stopping power is off the hook.


  25. #75
    Over forty victim of Fate Cougrrcj's Avatar
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    I have a '89 Schwinn Woodlands - a step below the High Plains. Not a bad bike that I got out of the trash. If I ever ride GAP/C&O ths would probably get the nod.
    '75 Fuji S-10S bought new, 45k+ miles and still going!
    '84 Univega Viva Sport
    '90 Schwinn Woodlands
    Huffy MTB - for trips to corner store
    MTB of questionable lineage aka 'Mutt Trail Bike'

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