MTB drivetrain on Cervélo R3 ?
03-14-13, 07:07 AM
#26
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Arbitrage, to be realistic, his light bike certainly will not feel light pulling a heavy trailer. Being stiff is one thing, but other than the advantages of the bike fitting him perfectly for long hours in the saddle, I can't see how when in mule train mode, it will feel any different than a bike that weighs 10 lbs more.
Another aspect, what about the rear wheel, how does a heavy trailer come into play for both wheel and tire? I'm asking as I don't have much trailer experience, only pulling kids, and I've only done that with heavier wheelsets than the cervelo, and certainly not day in day out.
Another aspect, what about the rear wheel, how does a heavy trailer come into play for both wheel and tire? I'm asking as I don't have much trailer experience, only pulling kids, and I've only done that with heavier wheelsets than the cervelo, and certainly not day in day out.
03-14-13, 10:49 AM
#27
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Which ones? And how'd you mount them? My Cervelo RS has no provision for mounting fenders and not enough clearance put anything between the tire and frame even if there were mounting points. I'm curious to know how you got around this problem...
As for the FD, I'm still in limbo. Have to find a setup that will work on the Cervélo's wider than normal BB and I wonder if a triple will be too wide for comfort.
03-14-13, 03:28 PM
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Space is really tight, especially with the front wheel.
I started with Crud Roadracers. They are a chore to setup so you won't want to take them off once you're done. The rear fender fits fine (photo 1). The front fender didn't fit properly, however. It either rubbed on the tire when too low or on the wires under the down tube when too high.
So I tried the SKS Race Blades Long. Never put the rear fender on because I was happy with the Crud. I got the SKS front fender to work with a little customization. The SKS front fender comes in 2 parts: one fits the back of the front wheel behind the fork, the shorter second part fits in front of the brake. I only use the back part. If installed as per instructions, it will not work because it will be too low and rub on the wheel. What I did was re-bend and shave off part of the metal adapter made to go under the fender and hook up on the brake bolt so that it fits in the hole giving access to the brake bolt from the back of the fork (photo 2). I wrapped the metal with foam, put it in the hole and secured it with tie wraps. I also used one of my frame bag velcros to bring the wires up a bit (photo 3). This is mostly for added security, since the clearance was good before I brought the wires up. Close but OK. Photo 4 is the "thing", over-exposed so you can see the fenders.
This setup works great with my wheels (Velocity A23 rims, 25mm Bontrager R3 tires @ 90 psi). The fenders don't rattle and have been road-tested in tough conditions.
contango: The camera setup is what it is. Every part was carefully chosen over a period of a few years, takes a while to be familiar with and I'm not changing anything. I'm not a professional but I try to achieve professional quality material (not like the attached photos!).
djb: the 2-wheel trailer transfers 10-15% of it's weight to the bike, which I don't think should have any real impact on the wheels. I think the most stressful forces on the frame will be the push/pull forces when going up hills and breaking. BTW, I had always used meters to measure development, and when you and others used inches, I went looking for a gear calculator giving me inches. I found the best gear calculator I've seen here.
For those interested, I've progressed on the front side of the drive train. Here's my plan now :
- existing FSA BBright crank
- 44T 110mm BCD chainring
- IRD 34T chainring Triplizer
- 24T 74mm BCD chainring
- IRD Alpina-d FD which works with STI shifters
- still have to figure out if I can keep my ST-5700 left shifter or if I need to purchase an ST-5703
- also still left to see if all this will fit together and if the chain line will be OK for the Cervélo.
I started with Crud Roadracers. They are a chore to setup so you won't want to take them off once you're done. The rear fender fits fine (photo 1). The front fender didn't fit properly, however. It either rubbed on the tire when too low or on the wires under the down tube when too high.
So I tried the SKS Race Blades Long. Never put the rear fender on because I was happy with the Crud. I got the SKS front fender to work with a little customization. The SKS front fender comes in 2 parts: one fits the back of the front wheel behind the fork, the shorter second part fits in front of the brake. I only use the back part. If installed as per instructions, it will not work because it will be too low and rub on the wheel. What I did was re-bend and shave off part of the metal adapter made to go under the fender and hook up on the brake bolt so that it fits in the hole giving access to the brake bolt from the back of the fork (photo 2). I wrapped the metal with foam, put it in the hole and secured it with tie wraps. I also used one of my frame bag velcros to bring the wires up a bit (photo 3). This is mostly for added security, since the clearance was good before I brought the wires up. Close but OK. Photo 4 is the "thing", over-exposed so you can see the fenders.
This setup works great with my wheels (Velocity A23 rims, 25mm Bontrager R3 tires @ 90 psi). The fenders don't rattle and have been road-tested in tough conditions.
contango: The camera setup is what it is. Every part was carefully chosen over a period of a few years, takes a while to be familiar with and I'm not changing anything. I'm not a professional but I try to achieve professional quality material (not like the attached photos!).
djb: the 2-wheel trailer transfers 10-15% of it's weight to the bike, which I don't think should have any real impact on the wheels. I think the most stressful forces on the frame will be the push/pull forces when going up hills and breaking. BTW, I had always used meters to measure development, and when you and others used inches, I went looking for a gear calculator giving me inches. I found the best gear calculator I've seen here.
For those interested, I've progressed on the front side of the drive train. Here's my plan now :
- existing FSA BBright crank
- 44T 110mm BCD chainring
- IRD 34T chainring Triplizer
- 24T 74mm BCD chainring
- IRD Alpina-d FD which works with STI shifters
- still have to figure out if I can keep my ST-5700 left shifter or if I need to purchase an ST-5703
- also still left to see if all this will fit together and if the chain line will be OK for the Cervélo.
03-14-13, 08:11 PM
#29
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neat setup.
as per the "push-pull" ya I guess thats right. I know from pulling a 60-70lb kid on a 25lb at least trail a bike, there certainly is push pull going on. I guess the main thing is that the attachment is good and solid, with no looseness to work extra hard on the frame.
Have fun putting it all together, and by the way, you havent mentioned at all where you are thinking of riding.
Perhaps we will see each other schlepping weight up Mt Royal one day this season.
re: fd, people like Doug have used Tiagra fd with mtn cranks and STIs without problems, I have one on my cross bike and it works very well, easy to set up and the trim feature works great.
ps, have you had any issues with the tight fender clearances, of picking up something that jams in the fender and bends it?
as per the "push-pull" ya I guess thats right. I know from pulling a 60-70lb kid on a 25lb at least trail a bike, there certainly is push pull going on. I guess the main thing is that the attachment is good and solid, with no looseness to work extra hard on the frame.
Have fun putting it all together, and by the way, you havent mentioned at all where you are thinking of riding.
Perhaps we will see each other schlepping weight up Mt Royal one day this season.
re: fd, people like Doug have used Tiagra fd with mtn cranks and STIs without problems, I have one on my cross bike and it works very well, easy to set up and the trim feature works great.
ps, have you had any issues with the tight fender clearances, of picking up something that jams in the fender and bends it?
03-14-13, 10:22 PM
#30
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I'm doing Montreal, Miami, San Diego, Vancouver Island and Montreal.
No catastrophic failures yet. Both Crud and SKS have safety release mechanisms and they both popped out at some point because of branches or clusters of wet leaves. I just put them back together. If the flexible plastic fenders get bent out of shape, I read somewhere that you can reshape them with a hair dryer.
No catastrophic failures yet. Both Crud and SKS have safety release mechanisms and they both popped out at some point because of branches or clusters of wet leaves. I just put them back together. If the flexible plastic fenders get bent out of shape, I read somewhere that you can reshape them with a hair dryer.
Last edited by LucF; 03-14-13 at 10:27 PM.
03-15-13, 10:14 AM
#32
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For those interested, I've progressed on the front side of the drive train. Here's my plan now :
- existing FSA BBright crank
- 44T 110mm BCD chainring
- IRD 34T chainring Triplizer
- 24T 74mm BCD chainring
- IRD Alpina-d FD which works with STI shifters
- still have to figure out if I can keep my ST-5700 left shifter or if I need to purchase an ST-5703
- also still left to see if all this will fit together and if the chain line will be OK for the Cervélo.
- existing FSA BBright crank
- 44T 110mm BCD chainring
- IRD 34T chainring Triplizer
- 24T 74mm BCD chainring
- IRD Alpina-d FD which works with STI shifters
- still have to figure out if I can keep my ST-5700 left shifter or if I need to purchase an ST-5703
- also still left to see if all this will fit together and if the chain line will be OK for the Cervélo.
Why bother with all these shenanigans? Towing 80lbs of junk, I can't imagine you will ever need the 44T ring. And you're not likely to need the 34T ring that often. So why not dump the front derailleur entirely and run the bike as a 1x10?
BTW, how are you planning to stop all that mass? Carry a bunch of spare brake pads and pray often? Convert to disc brakes?
03-15-13, 12:52 PM
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If you want three front chain rings, you must have a matched shifter like the ST-5703.
Why bother with all these shenanigans? Towing 80lbs of junk, I can't imagine you will ever need the 44T ring. And you're not likely to need the 34T ring that often. So why not dump the front derailleur entirely and run the bike as a 1x10?
BTW, how are you planning to stop all that mass? Carry a bunch of spare brake pads and pray often? Convert to disc brakes?
Why bother with all these shenanigans? Towing 80lbs of junk, I can't imagine you will ever need the 44T ring. And you're not likely to need the 34T ring that often. So why not dump the front derailleur entirely and run the bike as a 1x10?
BTW, how are you planning to stop all that mass? Carry a bunch of spare brake pads and pray often? Convert to disc brakes?
And yes, I will definitely carry extra brake pads. I don't see that breaking will be much worse than if I weighed 250 lbs with no trailer. Plus, unless the road is turning alot, I don't mind the speed when going down so I don't use my breaks as much as many others. Should be fun with the trailer
Anyways, I'll do test rides before leaving.
As for the gearing, if you look at this chart where I have my current gearing at the top and the tour gearing at the bottom, you'll see that at 80rpm and 10-11 mph I'm spending most of my time in the 34T chainring, using the 24T up hills and the 44T back down. The 44T will certainly not get that much use, but when I'll want it, I think I'll be glad I have it.
03-15-13, 02:02 PM
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I don't mind the speed when going down so I don't use my breaks as much as many others.
03-15-13, 02:17 PM
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Under normal circumstances you might not use your brakes as much as others but with a trailer on the back I would imagine your handling would be very different. You wouldn't want to find that something breaks because you let your speed get ahead of you and couldn't get everything under control.
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03-15-13, 02:28 PM
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Under normal circumstances you might not use your brakes as much as others but with a trailer on the back I would imagine your handling would be very different. You wouldn't want to find that something breaks because you let your speed get ahead of you and couldn't get everything under control.
03-15-13, 02:52 PM
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03-15-13, 07:45 PM
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(btw, your written English is excellent, I just cant help ribbing you on the camera gear, I've worked in commercial photography for over 20 years and have always been firmly in the "point and shoot" camp for bike trips, even in the film days)
03-15-13, 10:07 PM
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So that's how you know about Sinar! My style is definitely more Atget than Doisneau, but I really like this guy.
Hey, maybe after I've done my mini test tours I'll decide to ditch the DSLR; who knows.
Hey, maybe after I've done my mini test tours I'll decide to ditch the DSLR; who knows.
03-17-13, 10:37 PM
#40
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late reply, re weight of stuff, you'll have to work that out for what works for you, but re camera gear, being serious about shooting can really end up being a huge time suck as you know. I mean it all depends on how a day is planned, and how much distance you plan or need to do, but stopping often for taking photos can really add up. Again, it all depends on your priorities and what your expectations for getting from A to B, there certainly isnt a right answer. For me having a simple camera in a handlebar bag with easy access, and that is easily brought into stores in the barbag, this works best for me.
03-18-13, 12:00 AM
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You're right. No use bringing the gear if you don't have time to wait. I don't mind waiting a couple of hours for light, or calling it a day if I think it will be better to come back to a spot at dawn. I'll even have a chair with me—and time to use it. While in the US, my only time constraint will be the 6-month limit for visitors, during which I must travel ≈14 000 km, which leaves me ample time to wait for light.
It all depends on how comfortable (or able!) I am lugging the gear. As of now, I'm at 111 lbs for everything (including 25 lbs for the bike and 15 for the trailer).
It all depends on how comfortable (or able!) I am lugging the gear. As of now, I'm at 111 lbs for everything (including 25 lbs for the bike and 15 for the trailer).
03-18-13, 04:45 AM
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You're right. No use bringing the gear if you don't have time to wait. I don't mind waiting a couple of hours for light, or calling it a day if I think it will be better to come back to a spot at dawn. I'll even have a chair with me—and time to use it. While in the US, my only time constraint will be the 6-month limit for visitors, during which I must travel ≈14 000 km, which leaves me ample time to wait for light.
It all depends on how comfortable (or able!) I am lugging the gear. As of now, I'm at 111 lbs for everything (including 25 lbs for the bike and 15 for the trailer).
It all depends on how comfortable (or able!) I am lugging the gear. As of now, I'm at 111 lbs for everything (including 25 lbs for the bike and 15 for the trailer).
I've often been frustrated by issues with light when I've been out with friends, see an awesome vista and known very well that in a couple of hours the light would be near-perfect but not been in a place where I could sensibly wait those two hours. So all the fancy (and heavy) gear doesn't really help me in a situation like that and I might as well just take a quick snapshot with a compact point-n-shoot.
If you've got 6 months to cover 14000km that works out at nearly 2500km per month, or 80km per day. On the face of it 50 miles a day sounds easy enough but I'm not sure how easy it would be to do that distance on every single one of 180 consecutive days. Do you have enough slack time in there to deal with horrendous weather days, days that seem to be entirely uphill, maybe days where you just need to rest and not cycle at all? If those rest days occur in picturesque areas you've got a win-win situation but if you take a day off the bike because you just can't make any progress one day only to find the next day (when you're behind schedule) is when you spot the breathtaking vista how's that going to work?
I'm sure you thought of this already but be aware that bulky camera gear presents its own security issues. My wife sometimes gets irritated when we're out and I've been shooting because I won't leave my backpack in the car, and she sometimes feels a bit embarrassed when I insist on taking it into a diner if we stop for food on the way home. When you don't have whatever security the back of a car offers, how will you keep it safe when you're not with it?
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03-18-13, 06:35 AM
#43
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Good point bringing up security issues, for me being vigilant of equipment has been such an omnipresent issue over the years that its a relief using a point and shhot, not to mention the schlepping it on your back aspect-- but these issues are neither here nor there if one really wants to travel with stuff, you just will have to deal with it.
When I mentioned the A to B aspect, I was thinking more of having x hours to get to a campground or hotel, if you run out of time then its trying to find somewhere safeish to put up tent.
If at campground, kinda obligated to take stuff to shower and or toilet.
Then there is being confident about water protection when riding in heavy rain.
You pick your poison as the expression goes, or your albatross ;-)
When I mentioned the A to B aspect, I was thinking more of having x hours to get to a campground or hotel, if you run out of time then its trying to find somewhere safeish to put up tent.
If at campground, kinda obligated to take stuff to shower and or toilet.
Then there is being confident about water protection when riding in heavy rain.
You pick your poison as the expression goes, or your albatross ;-)
03-18-13, 11:07 AM
#44
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Aaargh, security. Drives me nuts. Not only will I be carrying the camera gear, but a tablet too. Luckily, I don't have to worry about the data so much. I'll "backup" the photos by keeping my SD cards fairly small and mailing them home when they are full. Won't be keeping any data on the tablet, except the pages written since the last upload.
The first part of my system will be the Undercover vibration alarm.
For the second part, I'm considering the Pacsafe eXomesh to wrap around the Nomad (if it fits).
The third part will be a small cable lock.
If the Pacsafe mesh can't cover the Nomad, I was thinking of using a cable lock long enough to wrap around the Nomad and go through the bike. Maybe that's what I'll end up doing anyway, since the mesh weighs 1.6 lbs.
I'm also counting on the fact that most thieves looking for valuable stuff probably won't suspect the trailer to contain expensive camera gear.
As to daily distances, I'll get a better idea of what's possible when I run tests with the trailer and the power meter before leaving. For now, I'm thinking 100 km/day ±50 so I can take days off to shoot, rest or play golf.
I'll have to be flexible on daily destinations if I decide to shoot on tour—except if I have a tee time!
The security system I put together has to relieve me of carrying the camera gear around.
As for rain, since the Nomad isn't waterproof, I'll cover the non-waterproof bags that are in it with nylon dry sacks.
The first part of my system will be the Undercover vibration alarm.
For the second part, I'm considering the Pacsafe eXomesh to wrap around the Nomad (if it fits).
The third part will be a small cable lock.
If the Pacsafe mesh can't cover the Nomad, I was thinking of using a cable lock long enough to wrap around the Nomad and go through the bike. Maybe that's what I'll end up doing anyway, since the mesh weighs 1.6 lbs.
I'm also counting on the fact that most thieves looking for valuable stuff probably won't suspect the trailer to contain expensive camera gear.
As to daily distances, I'll get a better idea of what's possible when I run tests with the trailer and the power meter before leaving. For now, I'm thinking 100 km/day ±50 so I can take days off to shoot, rest or play golf.
[...]When I mentioned the A to B aspect, I was thinking more of having x hours to get to a campground or hotel, if you run out of time then its trying to find somewhere safeish to put up tent. If at campground, kinda obligated to take stuff to shower and or toilet.
Then there is being confident about water protection when riding in heavy rain.[...]
Then there is being confident about water protection when riding in heavy rain.[...]
The security system I put together has to relieve me of carrying the camera gear around.
As for rain, since the Nomad isn't waterproof, I'll cover the non-waterproof bags that are in it with nylon dry sacks.
03-18-13, 11:55 AM
#45
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djb
late reply, re weight of stuff, you'll have to work that out for what works for you, but re camera gear, being serious about shooting can really end up being a huge time suck as you know. I mean it all depends on how a day is planned, and how much distance you plan or need to do, but stopping often for taking photos can really add up.
late reply, re weight of stuff, you'll have to work that out for what works for you, but re camera gear, being serious about shooting can really end up being a huge time suck as you know. I mean it all depends on how a day is planned, and how much distance you plan or need to do, but stopping often for taking photos can really add up.
You are absolutely correct, and you alluded to it in one of your past posts.
My wife and I took over 9000 pictures on a 3 month tour. If each picture only took an average of 30 seconds, and most took much longer, that is 75 hours! Seventy five hours of riding time at 12-14 mph is about 1500 km. However, photography is what we do and we strive to document our tours. A lot of our pictures are used in presentations. Our pictures are not meant to be fine art, but more to tell the story. However, we want better that average quality. That is why your suggestion of a compact camera in the bar bag where it can be reached easily is a good one.
There is also the issue of rain. I don't hesitate to take my little Canon G12 out in the rain, but I'm not going to spend a lot of time with my SLR setting up a picture in the rain. Often it would come down to am I going to get a picture or not, especially if I had to unpack to get at the camera. We have encountered a lot of rain in our travels. In the 3 months mentioned above we had 35 days of rain.
In the film days we carried our SLR's, a Nikon FM2 and a F3. Heck, you could drive tent stakes with the FM2.
Our digital SLR's are heavy and bulky and we have tried to come up with compact "enthusiasts" digital cameras that will work for us. With the advent of the mirror-less large sensor compacts, I think there is hope. Security is a real issue. Depending on where you are it can be a really big issue. In Switzerland, I wanted to see the North Face of the Eiger. It would have taken us another week of riding to get to Grindelwald, and we decided that if we did not want to break our budget, we needed to get into another country. Switzerland is really expensive! We were staying at a campground that was near a train station. We locked our bikes to wooden fence in the campground, and took 3 different trains into Grindelwald. I was a little anxious, but it turned out fine. I would not try this in Cleveland, Ohio, or even Eugene, Oregon. Everything that is really valuable, except the netbook, can fit in our bar bags. On my solo tours, I found that it was impossible to watch the bike at all times. There are times when shopping, museums, going to the bathroom, showers, or eating when the bike and gear had to be left alone. Even with my wife, we leave our gear alone quite often. That is why I really appreciate the easily detachable bar bags so much--snatch and go. Sure it would be an inconvenience if someone stole my camping gear of one of panniers full of dirty cloths, but it would not be as serious as the loss of passport, camera, wallet, glasses etc.
Last edited by Doug64; 03-18-13 at 02:50 PM.
03-18-13, 12:25 PM
#46
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Aaargh, security. Drives me nuts. Not only will I be carrying the camera gear, but a tablet too. Luckily, I don't have to worry about the data so much. I'll "backup" the photos by keeping my SD cards fairly small and mailing them home when they are full. Won't be keeping any data on the tablet, except the pages written since the last upload.
I'm also counting on the fact that most thieves looking for valuable stuff probably won't suspect the trailer to contain expensive camera gear.
I know it's a totally different scale but from what I recall reading the perpetrators of the Brinks-Matt robbery expected their haul to be about £1m in used banknotes, but ended up running away something north of £25m in gold bullion.
As to daily distances, I'll get a better idea of what's possible when I run tests with the trailer and the power meter before leaving. For now, I'm thinking 100 km/day ±50 so I can take days off to shoot, rest or play golf.
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03-18-13, 04:47 PM
#47
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Doug, I've kept one of my FM2's, I sold a bunch of my old stuff but kept a FM2 and a few of my favorite manual lenses. I used the lenses a bit but autofocus ones work so well that I just stopped using them because of focus errors (I shoot often in low light and wide open or nearly) but just couldnt get myself to sell them.
You know, the F3 was very sturdy, I never owned one, preferred the higher flash sync of of FM series, but they (F3s) would last and last and last.
as for time taking photos, it always surprises me how if Im riding with a slower rider, if I stop to hit the bushes or whatever, how far ahead someone can get along even if they are toodling along. It really does reinforce for me the theme of biking steadily along, you dont have to ride fast but being steady really means you can cover a good distance, or conversely, when you stop a lot, you really have to work harder to go that bit faster.
I was especially thinking of landscape photos, and how the light is the most important. Im more of a people photographer, but when biking, I tend to be quick --I should add, I try to be quick, as often I will take more time than intended. When I read Crazy Guy journals where there are good photos, I always think of the time they took, especially with solo setup shots where they had to set up camera, ride back and then towards camera etc etc, Im too lazy to do that stuff.
All this stuff said, short photo breaks if you have time are a nice break for ye ol keester and such, and as you say Doug, I often wish I took more photos for memories and stuff.
You know, the F3 was very sturdy, I never owned one, preferred the higher flash sync of of FM series, but they (F3s) would last and last and last.
as for time taking photos, it always surprises me how if Im riding with a slower rider, if I stop to hit the bushes or whatever, how far ahead someone can get along even if they are toodling along. It really does reinforce for me the theme of biking steadily along, you dont have to ride fast but being steady really means you can cover a good distance, or conversely, when you stop a lot, you really have to work harder to go that bit faster.
I was especially thinking of landscape photos, and how the light is the most important. Im more of a people photographer, but when biking, I tend to be quick --I should add, I try to be quick, as often I will take more time than intended. When I read Crazy Guy journals where there are good photos, I always think of the time they took, especially with solo setup shots where they had to set up camera, ride back and then towards camera etc etc, Im too lazy to do that stuff.
All this stuff said, short photo breaks if you have time are a nice break for ye ol keester and such, and as you say Doug, I often wish I took more photos for memories and stuff.
03-19-13, 01:13 PM
#48
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Bikes: 2012 Masi Speciale CX : 2013 Ghost 29er EBS
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Oh, and I have fenders too! I mentioned that I do long distance cycling (randonneuring, more precisely). Riding an unsupported 600 km brevet for 30 straight hours in the cold rain requires a different setup than riding a criterium where you can take a warm shower after 2 hours of hard work.
Now, to get on with the suggestions from other members. First of all, I'm really grateful for all your contributions. I can't believe the experience and know-how of the people here.
I've abandoned the thought of rigging the Wahoo to pull a trailer. Too much trouble and not enough cost benefits.
As for getting a touring bike and reselling it, my problem is that I'll be doing other tours after this one, so reselling the bike isn't practical. And I'd rather have a tour drivetrain for the R3 sleeping in my locker than a 3rd bike. I wanted the discs on the Trucker so I had the option of using it as my 4-season bike after the trip, replacing the Wahoo, but I really like the Wahoo's suspension in the city and on Montréal's third-worldly pavement.
I'm not afraid of the carbon frame not being strong enough to ride with the trailer. Carbon is strong, and it doesn't look like the really well designed Burley hitch will apply any weird directional forces to the frame. As to carbon needing to be babied, I'm not the babying type. As long as the structural integrity of my frame isn't in jeopardy, I don't care about scratches or wear. I ride my bike more than I look at it. I think the R3 can handle the 20,000 km with a trailer without a problem (no scientific data to back this up; just my gut feeling). If I need repairs--or a new frame--, so be it. I have lots of time. Worst case scenario, I buy a LHT on the road and send the R3 (or what's left of it!) back home.
PMDoug64: As far as tires go, I'm limited to 25 mm tires on the R3. Can't go wider but that's OK. I'm using 25 mm tubeless tires @ 90 PSI, and while not as comfortable as my Wahoo's 2.1's @ 40 psi, for paved-road-only touring they should be fine.
Back to the gearing issue.
I'm glad to see others cautioning about getting low enough gears to pull 85 pounds. Many of the people I'd spoken to outside this forum would say I was fine with my existing gears, which I didn't believe. I'm not a Cat 1 or 2 rider at all. I'm 52 and more like a 225 watt diesel. I like slow and steady, hate getting off the bike and don't want to route around hills.
pacificcyclist: Your warning about the 32T with a 105 GS RD not being reliable under constant stress makes sense and worries me. I thought I had the RD issue resolved but it looks like it's not. Don't know what to do, but since I won't be using the 105 RD, I'll go up to a 36T granny cog.
I think what looks like the best suggestion yet for the RD would be to get a 9sp MTB RD which would work with my ST-5700 control and allow me to go 12-36T.
As for the FD, I'm still in limbo. Have to find a setup that will work on the Cervélo's wider than normal BB and I wonder if a triple will be too wide for comfort.
aramis: You say "there's nothing magic or unheard of having super low gearing and a triple with STI's on a road bike.. just buy the parts and go for it".
Then my question is:
If I wanted a 44/34/24 & 11-36T setup, exactly which parts would I need, taking into consideration the Cervélo BB, my existing 105 parts and FSA crank?
Thanks in advance,
Now, to get on with the suggestions from other members. First of all, I'm really grateful for all your contributions. I can't believe the experience and know-how of the people here.
I've abandoned the thought of rigging the Wahoo to pull a trailer. Too much trouble and not enough cost benefits.
As for getting a touring bike and reselling it, my problem is that I'll be doing other tours after this one, so reselling the bike isn't practical. And I'd rather have a tour drivetrain for the R3 sleeping in my locker than a 3rd bike. I wanted the discs on the Trucker so I had the option of using it as my 4-season bike after the trip, replacing the Wahoo, but I really like the Wahoo's suspension in the city and on Montréal's third-worldly pavement.
I'm not afraid of the carbon frame not being strong enough to ride with the trailer. Carbon is strong, and it doesn't look like the really well designed Burley hitch will apply any weird directional forces to the frame. As to carbon needing to be babied, I'm not the babying type. As long as the structural integrity of my frame isn't in jeopardy, I don't care about scratches or wear. I ride my bike more than I look at it. I think the R3 can handle the 20,000 km with a trailer without a problem (no scientific data to back this up; just my gut feeling). If I need repairs--or a new frame--, so be it. I have lots of time. Worst case scenario, I buy a LHT on the road and send the R3 (or what's left of it!) back home.
PMDoug64: As far as tires go, I'm limited to 25 mm tires on the R3. Can't go wider but that's OK. I'm using 25 mm tubeless tires @ 90 PSI, and while not as comfortable as my Wahoo's 2.1's @ 40 psi, for paved-road-only touring they should be fine.
Back to the gearing issue.
I'm glad to see others cautioning about getting low enough gears to pull 85 pounds. Many of the people I'd spoken to outside this forum would say I was fine with my existing gears, which I didn't believe. I'm not a Cat 1 or 2 rider at all. I'm 52 and more like a 225 watt diesel. I like slow and steady, hate getting off the bike and don't want to route around hills.
pacificcyclist: Your warning about the 32T with a 105 GS RD not being reliable under constant stress makes sense and worries me. I thought I had the RD issue resolved but it looks like it's not. Don't know what to do, but since I won't be using the 105 RD, I'll go up to a 36T granny cog.
I think what looks like the best suggestion yet for the RD would be to get a 9sp MTB RD which would work with my ST-5700 control and allow me to go 12-36T.
As for the FD, I'm still in limbo. Have to find a setup that will work on the Cervélo's wider than normal BB and I wonder if a triple will be too wide for comfort.
aramis: You say "there's nothing magic or unheard of having super low gearing and a triple with STI's on a road bike.. just buy the parts and go for it".
Then my question is:
If I wanted a 44/34/24 & 11-36T setup, exactly which parts would I need, taking into consideration the Cervélo BB, my existing 105 parts and FSA crank?
Thanks in advance,
First replace the front 105 FD with a Tiagra FD. This works better than a mountain front triple derailleur. Don't need a triple front derailleur at all, because you need the 2nd modification. Make sure you obtain the correct chain line with the 2nd big ring (36T) on a 36T/24T double chain ring. Then use custom spacers to accommodate and mount the 24T chain ring. You will be able to shift fine like I did with my Masi. The Tiagra derailleur allows a wider throw like a mountain derailleur but it is more road compatible with your road STI shifters.
You also need a 10 speed Shimano SLX chain to make this all work.
Hope this helps.
03-19-13, 07:29 PM
#49
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 94
Bikes: Cervélo R3, Trek Wahoo
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[...]Don't need a triple front derailleur at all, because you need the 2nd modification. Make sure you obtain the correct chain line with the 2nd big ring (36T) on a 36T/24T double chain ring. Then use custom spacers to accommodate and mount the 24T chain ring.
You also need a 10 speed Shimano SLX chain to make this all work.
Hope this helps.
You also need a 10 speed Shimano SLX chain to make this all work.
Hope this helps.
If I understand what you're saying correctly, you propose that I use a 36/24T double chain ring instead of a 44/34/24T triple.
If that's the case, I wouldn't need an ST-5703 control, right ?
Will this part list allow me to implement what you see for the front?
FRONT
- existing FSA BBright 110BCD crank
- IRD 36T 110 BCD Triplizer which converts BCD from 110 to 74mm. They only have 2 flavors and luckily 36T is one of them. It is designed as a middle chain ring but I'm thinking it could also be used as an outer ring, right?
- 24T 74mm BCD chainring
- IRD Alpina-d FD (This is designed to work with STI shifters. Do you think the Tiagra FD you propose would be better than this one?)
Also, should I worry about the abnormal width (79mm) of the BBright bottom bracket shell, or is this point moot since I am just reusing my existing FSA crank?
As for the rear and the chain, here's what I gather will work with my existing ST-5700 control and the proposed front setup.
I'd really appreciate it if you can confirm that these parts should do the job.
REAR:
- Deore SGS RD-M592 RD 9sp
- Shimano SLX Dyna‑Sys CS‑HG81 11‑36T 10sp cassette
- Shimano SLX HG-X CN-HG74 10sp chain
Thanks in advance,
Last edited by LucF; 03-20-13 at 05:45 PM.
03-19-13, 08:02 PM
#50
Banned
I happen to favor 16t drops from mid to granny rings, smaller differences the bother of the 3rd ring is rewarded with
just a couple ratios, on the low side of overlapping ranges..
But I did my touring build a long time ago .. 95" top gear, 19" low gear .
40:34 the low end of the middle ring 31"..
that's about the 20t on the granny 24t gear, so the 24 & 28t are between the 20 and 34t..
just a couple ratios, on the low side of overlapping ranges..
But I did my touring build a long time ago .. 95" top gear, 19" low gear .
40:34 the low end of the middle ring 31"..
that's about the 20t on the granny 24t gear, so the 24 & 28t are between the 20 and 34t..