Modifying a Brooks B 17 ?
03-18-13, 10:19 PM
#26
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Thanks again, I'll continue to experiment.
03-18-13, 11:51 PM
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03-19-13, 07:04 AM
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https://30thcentury.wordpress.com/201...acing-project/
https://cork-grips.com/2010/01/23/lace-a-brooks-saddle/
I use the lace pattern seen in the above links. It provides a cleaner look.
https://cork-grips.com/2010/01/23/lace-a-brooks-saddle/
I use the lace pattern seen in the above links. It provides a cleaner look.
03-19-13, 07:26 AM
#29
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Sorry to participate in carrying this thread off the subject, but I, too, own a Selle Anatomica saddle as pictured above. While it lasted, it was by far the most comfortable saddle I ever rode. No pressure points; it felt like sitting in a hammock. But it stretched into uselessness, beyond the range of the tension screw, in less than two years, and I only used that tension screw when I could solidly feel the seatpost trying to have its way with me. It looked to me like the reason it stretched so badly, even with a laminate on the backside of the leather, was that large hole and the short side skirts. They didn't leave enough material to support my weight. I'm told that newer versions have addressed the stretching problem, but I didn't feel like I got my money's worth out of my Selle Anatomica saddle, and they cost too much to try again.
Back to the point, I have a VO saddle with laced skirts, and it keeps its shape real well. Like furballi mentioned above, the lacing is a little loose, and that seems to help keep the top pliable and comfortable under me. I wouldn't hesitate to lace another leather saddle.
Back to the point, I have a VO saddle with laced skirts, and it keeps its shape real well. Like furballi mentioned above, the lacing is a little loose, and that seems to help keep the top pliable and comfortable under me. I wouldn't hesitate to lace another leather saddle.
The replacement was uncomfortable at first, was clearly sagging and required quite a bit of adjustment. Then the rivet at the nose snapped off, but not before destroying my wool tights I cycle in everyday and can't really afford to replace right now and destroying the long black denim shorts I rode in most days, AND giving me a bit of a saddle sore. Now after only about a month I had to pull it off my bike yesterday as it felt like it was pinching me and when I went to adjust it I found that the whole front end of it was loose and there was not enough adjustment left in the bolt to improve it any. I just sent them an e-mail this evening, we'll see how they respond, but I'm afraid they are sick of dealing with me. Instead of offering for me to send my saddle back to have the rivet repaired they suggested I find someone in town to do it for me. Then when they mailed the rivets to me for this they just dropped them in a regular envelope! So of course the mail sorting machines quickly left those on the floor of a post office somewhere and I received a nice empty envelopte with holes in it! They eventually sent me another rivet, but still!
This is so disappointing, the first saddle fit very nicely and was doing just fine after 2,000 miles in the wet Pacific Northwest, but then the rail broke. Now I'm worried that I'm stuck with another ruined saddle as I am now just over a year out from when I purchased the first one. I paid a LOT for this saddle as I wanted it in red to match my bike, so it ended up costing me $200.
/ threadjack over, sorry!
Last edited by Medic Zero; 03-19-13 at 07:32 AM.
03-19-13, 10:32 AM
#30
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It does look cleaner, I'll give it a try
03-19-13, 10:41 AM
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I'm not so sure the newer versions are
The replacement was uncomfortable at first, was clearly sagging and required quite a bit of adjustment. Now after only about a month I had to pull it off my bike yesterday as it felt like it was pinching me and when I went to adjust it I found that the whole fro
This is so disappointing, the first saddle fit very nicely and was doing just fine after 2,000 miles in the wet Pacific Northwest, but then the rail broke. Now I'm worried that I'm stuck with another ruined saddle as I am now just over a year out from when I purchased the first one. I paid a LOT for this saddle as I wanted it in red to match my bike, so it ended up costing me $200.
/ threadjack over, sorry!
The replacement was uncomfortable at first, was clearly sagging and required quite a bit of adjustment. Now after only about a month I had to pull it off my bike yesterday as it felt like it was pinching me and when I went to adjust it I found that the whole fro
This is so disappointing, the first saddle fit very nicely and was doing just fine after 2,000 miles in the wet Pacific Northwest, but then the rail broke. Now I'm worried that I'm stuck with another ruined saddle as I am now just over a year out from when I purchased the first one. I paid a LOT for this saddle as I wanted it in red to match my bike, so it ended up costing me $200.
/ threadjack over, sorry!
03-19-13, 06:54 PM
#32
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I have tried to avoid commenting on the Selle Anatomica, However as I believe that is the saddle you are referring to I had to add. that I also had one, it turned out to be one very uncomfortable saddle. It was fine for shorter rides, but for back to back days while on tour, well I replaced it with my B17 and while not perfect , it was much better. I realize many like the saddle so YMMV
03-19-13, 07:35 PM
#33
In the right lane
I have a little over 5,000 miles on my standard Brooks B17, yet I'm still not pleased with it. I feel like the edges flare out too much when I apply my 170 pounds to it. The result is a feeling like a knife rubbing against my thigh on back to back rides of 50 - 60 mile days. Has anyone tried to modify their standard B17 with holes similar to the Imperial , then using a leather cord to keep the edges of the saddle from flaring outward ? If so, how did you make the holes, with a drill, or a punch. Was there any improvement ?
A leather punch is quicker and easier, but I try not to buy odd tools I'll likely never use again, so I used a drill and small bit. Tied with some outdoorsy cord from local BP/climbing shop.
I made the mistake of using the Brooks apron embossing as a reference point for spacing the row of holes. Turns out the Brooks stamp was ~1cm off from left to right side, which coincidentally was the spacing for my holes, so I remedied the problem with 2 more holes. Be sure to measure the Brooks stamp location to make sure it's an accurate point of reference before you start making holes. Evidently they simply "eyeball" this step of the manufacturing process without any measurement.
The holes should be located rearwards of the embossing to control saddle spread - up front they have little effect. Tying does control apron spread and reduces saddle sag somewhat too, but it will still sag some even after tying.
I made the mistake of using the Brooks apron embossing as a reference point for spacing the row of holes. Turns out the Brooks stamp was ~1cm off from left to right side, which coincidentally was the spacing for my holes, so I remedied the problem with 2 more holes. Be sure to measure the Brooks stamp location to make sure it's an accurate point of reference before you start making holes. Evidently they simply "eyeball" this step of the manufacturing process without any measurement.
The holes should be located rearwards of the embossing to control saddle spread - up front they have little effect. Tying does control apron spread and reduces saddle sag somewhat too, but it will still sag some even after tying.
Result is that I no longer need to adjust tension on the saddles. Have used them for about two years since the "operation" and they work fine.
03-19-13, 10:14 PM
#34
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Thats encouraging, It looks like I'm going to be equally satisfied after 3 comfortable rides. I used shoe laces as well, they look good, and do not feel them while peddling. I look forward to some longer trips to provide a real test.
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