Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1
    senile member
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Taiwan
    My Bikes
    1 mtb converted for commuting (actually, collecting dust in the garage), a LHT with "durable components"
    Posts
    351
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    LHT with cargo, problem?

    finally after 9 hours of working i got my lht (54cm) assembled and yet i encountered another problem: the tubus cargo (26ī) doesnītīfit to the eyelets on the seat stays, i have to stretch it open wide enough to let it "clamp" on to the eyelets, i wonder if anyone who has the same setup faced with similar problem? and if i do it this way will it damage the rack or frame?

  2. #2
    Along for the ride.
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    140
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Wrestling with racks to get them on is a time-honored tradition for tour bike builders. My Americano has a 145mm (tandem) rear spacing, and an oversized rigid front fork. I won't recount the exact words that were uttered while bending and "reasoning with" the racks to get them installed, but it wasn't G-rated.

  3. #3
    Immoderator KrisPistofferson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    POS Tennessee
    My Bikes
    Gary Fisher Simple City 8, Litespeed Obed
    Posts
    7,596
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It IS a tradition, I reckon. In my opinion, even dedicated touring models don't have enough eyelets, for the most part. Trying to squeeze fenders AND a rack on one eyelet sucks, and it just isn't as strong or stable, as far as I'm concerned. I guess it's just one of those things to BS about with other tourers!
    Quote Originally Posted by Bikeforums
    Your rights end where another poster's feelings begin.

  4. #4
    totally louche Bekologist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    A land that time forgot
    My Bikes
    the ever shifting stable loaded with comfortable road bikes and city and winter bikes
    Posts
    18,026
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The tubus stays are bendable aluminum, I'd bend them. But did you loosen the allen bolts that hold the stays to the rack? these let the stays out quite a bit. Also, the brackets can be reversed, holding the stays either in an inboard or outboard position, try flipping the brackets so the stays are to the outside.
    Last edited by Bekologist; 02-23-05 at 11:24 AM.

  5. #5
    Banned.
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    4,418
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Bekologist
    bendable aluminum, I'd bend them.
    Famous last words.
    "Let me just bend my aluminum seatpost/frame/etc. back....."

  6. #6
    Has opinion, will express
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    12,705
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I don't think aluminium. Tubus are CroMo tubing, and the hardware would not be a lesser metal.

    Agreed about the time-honoured tradition. You may need to get some new stays made. However, I would have thought that the rods and clamps on the rack (I presume there are the ones on the rack) would have allowed enough adjustment. Is it because they aren't long enough with the 45cm chainstays, or you can't spread them wide enough for the braze-ons on the seatstays?

    Maybe an email to Surly AND Tubus detailing your problem may provide an answer -- such as a special piece of hardware.

  7. #7
    senile member
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Taiwan
    My Bikes
    1 mtb converted for commuting (actually, collecting dust in the garage), a LHT with "durable components"
    Posts
    351
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Rowan
    Is it because they aren't long enough with the 45cm chainstays, or you can't spread them wide enough for the braze-ons on the seatstays?
    ah sorry folks, my mistake, i meant the 2 legs that connect to the chain stays. i tried to fasten them from the inside, but that does seem to interfere with the chain so i had to bend the legs wider to fit to the frame.

    good to know that itīs a long held tradition.

  8. #8
    hello roadfix's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles
    My Bikes
    thank you for asking
    Posts
    18,502
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Schumius
    ah sorry folks, my mistake, i meant the 2 legs that connect to the chain stays. i tried to fasten them from the inside, but that does seem to interfere with the chain so i had to bend the legs wider to fit to the frame.

    good to know that itīs a long held tradition.
    There's enough latitude there for the rack to accomodate different dropout widths.
    .cinelli.olympic.surly.long.haul.trucker.kona.ku.surly.steamroller.
    .litespeed.classic.litespeed.firenze.bianchi.pista.dean.colonel.plus.more.

  9. #9
    Has opinion, will express
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    12,705
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Cro-Mo won't mind the odd bend or two -- now or in 15 years' time. Happy touring. I'm jealous (about the Tubus, and maybe European touring... well... yes that too).

  10. #10
    Older I get, Better I was velonomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Schenectady NY & Wilmington NC
    My Bikes
    a bunch of them, most made by me, a couple made by others
    Posts
    1,630
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If you haven't already done so. You also need to put loctite (blue) on all the rack fasteners good idea to do on waterbottle cage mounts also. Put a drop on each fastener and allow to dry ( about 20 mins) this will save you much aggravation later

  11. #11
    Has opinion, will express
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    12,705
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by velonomad
    If you haven't already done so. You also need to put loctite (blue) on all the rack fasteners good idea to do on waterbottle cage mounts also. Put a drop on each fastener and allow to dry ( about 20 mins) this will save you much aggravation later

  12. #12
    totally louche Bekologist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    A land that time forgot
    My Bikes
    the ever shifting stable loaded with comfortable road bikes and city and winter bikes
    Posts
    18,026
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    For those of you without a Tubus rack yet, they rack seat stays ARE solid aluminum rods, and meant to be bent if need be.

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    My Bikes
    2003 Trek 520, 80's Openroad, 1975 Schwinn Suburban.
    Posts
    129
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ah...putting a rack on? No problem.. Let me just grab a few tools... Let's see...

    Allen wrenchs. Dremel. Hack saw. Pliers. Hydraulic jack. Heavy Chain. Duct tape. Crowbar. Hrm...this chainsaw might come in handy, too.

  14. #14
    dangerous with tools halfbiked's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    minneapolis
    My Bikes
    fat, long, single & fast
    Posts
    4,502
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    abbub- a chainsaw will make a horrid mess of things. What you need is an angle grinder and/or oxy-acetaline torch. In the event that neither of these tools are available metal cut-off wheels are available in 7" sizes for circular saws.

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    My Bikes
    2003 Trek 520, 80's Openroad, 1975 Schwinn Suburban.
    Posts
    129
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    OOOOOoooohhhhh....a TORCH! I knew I was forgetting something.

  16. #16
    senile member
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Taiwan
    My Bikes
    1 mtb converted for commuting (actually, collecting dust in the garage), a LHT with "durable components"
    Posts
    351
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by velonomad
    If you haven't already done so. You also need to put loctite (blue) on all the rack fasteners good idea to do on waterbottle cage mounts also. Put a drop on each fastener and allow to dry ( about 20 mins) this will save you much aggravation later
    iīve already did and then out of uncertainty i unfastened it and found that half the threads of the screw were gone by 50%, so does the threads in the eyelet, i wonder if this will make the rack less stable under weight?

  17. #17
    Pedalpower clayface's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    368
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Schumius
    iīve already did and then out of uncertainty i unfastened it and found that half the threads of the screw were gone by 50%, so does the threads in the eyelet, i wonder if this will make the rack less stable under weight?
    From the image, I assume it's the left dropout, so I think you could use a longer screw and a locknut on the other side. This will prevent the screw from getting loose and will give you peace of mind.

  18. #18
    senile member
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Taiwan
    My Bikes
    1 mtb converted for commuting (actually, collecting dust in the garage), a LHT with "durable components"
    Posts
    351
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    alright, cool, i canīt believe it didnīt occur to me, thanks!

  19. #19
    Member hakka_lugi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    25
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    1st: I'd try to thread a brand-new button head bolt from the inside of the frame outwards. If you can do that then leave it in there and you can do the outter lock nut jimmy rig and be fine.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •