Lightest "Theft-Proof" Lock?
#1
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Lightest "Theft-Proof" Lock?
Yes, I know there's no such thing as "Theft-proof."
I want a lock for the following:
-Locking the frame and both wheels (front wheel removed) to a post. ~8-12 inches clearance should be enough for this.
-Protection from hand saws, basic lock-cutters, lock picks, and leverage-based breakage
What I DON'T need:
-Protection from massive bolt-cutters that are impossible to conceal
-Protection from power saws
What's the lightest package for this? Is something like the mini 21" chain locks from Kryptonite my best bet? Here's one.
I want a lock for the following:
-Locking the frame and both wheels (front wheel removed) to a post. ~8-12 inches clearance should be enough for this.
-Protection from hand saws, basic lock-cutters, lock picks, and leverage-based breakage
What I DON'T need:
-Protection from massive bolt-cutters that are impossible to conceal
-Protection from power saws
What's the lightest package for this? Is something like the mini 21" chain locks from Kryptonite my best bet? Here's one.
Last edited by mdilthey; 07-12-13 at 10:28 AM.
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I have a really, really thick cable lock. It's flexible enough that it's hard to saw (moves with the blade) or snap with a lever, and too thick for even a 24" bolt cutter to span. It's not light though, probably about five pounds.
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I like the Abus Bordo GraniteX
Not too heavy. Very compact. And nearly as good of protection as the top of the line U locks.
But the other bordo's (not graniteX) are lighter, but easier to get through.
Not too heavy. Very compact. And nearly as good of protection as the top of the line U locks.
But the other bordo's (not graniteX) are lighter, but easier to get through.
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Yes, I know there's no such thing as "Theft-proof."
I want a lock for the following:
-Locking the frame and both wheels (front wheel removed) to a post. ~8-12 inches clearance should be enough for this.
-Protection from hand saws, basic lock-cutters, lock picks, and leverage-based breakage
What I DON'T need:
-Protection from massive bolt-cutters that are impossible to conceal
-Protection from power saws
What's the lightest package for this? Is something like the mini 21" chain locks from Kryptonite my best bet? Here's one.
I want a lock for the following:
-Locking the frame and both wheels (front wheel removed) to a post. ~8-12 inches clearance should be enough for this.
-Protection from hand saws, basic lock-cutters, lock picks, and leverage-based breakage
What I DON'T need:
-Protection from massive bolt-cutters that are impossible to conceal
-Protection from power saws
What's the lightest package for this? Is something like the mini 21" chain locks from Kryptonite my best bet? Here's one.
Anti-Pick Rotary Disc Cylinder
Bump Proof
Environmentally Robust
ART® Certified
…delivers the holy grail of locks – strength and lightness…”
wired.com
One-third the weight of a common U-lock.
TiGr® can lock both wheels and frame on most bike racks and posts
TiGr® Lock is the elegant
security system for your bike.
Intelligent design
#5
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TiGR looks good, but I wonder at how difficult it is to find a suitable pole for weaving in there, and how it does with things like oversized bottle cages. Anyone have any experience?
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What about the Axus ring lock with the plug in chain?
Or two Palmy's spray painted* black? Who's gonna know they are aluminum and not a generic u-lock?
* Use the BBQ hi-temp stuff, it sticks very well and is less likely to abrade off.
Or two Palmy's spray painted* black? Who's gonna know they are aluminum and not a generic u-lock?
* Use the BBQ hi-temp stuff, it sticks very well and is less likely to abrade off.
#8
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For your stated parameters, an inexpensive Ulock should be fine.
Last edited by tcs; 07-13-13 at 07:42 AM.
#9
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Last edited by tcs; 07-13-13 at 07:41 AM.
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Yep, they certified it, all right. The larger TiGr was ART Certified as a "2" on a 1 to 5 scale - about what a ulock with a street price of 10% as much might rate. Note: TiGr's own videos compare their lock to very humble ulocks. It is what it is: light, expensive, modest security.
#11
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I have a ring lock on the frame, mounted front side of seatstays, and a plug in chain 1.4mm long..
the combination works in town..
On a bike tour I bring a superlong, but fairly thin cable, to attach the bike to trees at my campsite, and
Picnic benches , and so forth..
the loops can be captured , in closing the ring lock hasp.
KNOW ANYONE CAMPING IN THE WOODS WITH A BOLT CUTTER?
fixed that for you .. Axa NL, Abus De.
NB I never remove my front wheel to lock up, my touring bikes
because of their low rider racks and Mudguards , only remove when punctures require.
or knocking down to box up for travel ..
the combination works in town..
On a bike tour I bring a superlong, but fairly thin cable, to attach the bike to trees at my campsite, and
Picnic benches , and so forth..
the loops can be captured , in closing the ring lock hasp.
KNOW ANYONE CAMPING IN THE WOODS WITH A BOLT CUTTER?
What about the AXA ring lock with the plug in chain?
NB I never remove my front wheel to lock up, my touring bikes
because of their low rider racks and Mudguards , only remove when punctures require.
or knocking down to box up for travel ..
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-15-14 at 03:09 PM.
#12
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My front wheel has nothing mounted to it. Fenders are a band-aid for inevitable mud that I would rather not use (personal preference) and I only need two Ortlieb back-rollers to carry all my stuff.
So, I guess a Kryptonite U-lock is my best option, since it's much stronger than a chain lock at similar weight. So be it. I even already own one.
My specific locking need: I camp every night, so I'm not worried about that. I can hide my bike under a dark green tarp every night of my tour underneath my hammock. However, during the day, I'm going to be using public WiFi to work from a laptop to pay for food, so I need peace of mind while I'm sitting inside a shop with headphones on while my bike is attached to a parking meter or whatever.
Cheers for the advice!
So, I guess a Kryptonite U-lock is my best option, since it's much stronger than a chain lock at similar weight. So be it. I even already own one.
My specific locking need: I camp every night, so I'm not worried about that. I can hide my bike under a dark green tarp every night of my tour underneath my hammock. However, during the day, I'm going to be using public WiFi to work from a laptop to pay for food, so I need peace of mind while I'm sitting inside a shop with headphones on while my bike is attached to a parking meter or whatever.
Cheers for the advice!
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Pitlocks aren't a bad idea either to supplement you U-Lock in that situation
#14
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Suit Yourself..
I've locked my bike to stuff, down the West coast & all over Northern Europe ,
and kept the bike throughout the months of several trips.
Youth Hostels Have racks in Bike-sheds to lock your bike to when you want a Break from camping..
I've locked my bike to stuff, down the West coast & all over Northern Europe ,
and kept the bike throughout the months of several trips.
Youth Hostels Have racks in Bike-sheds to lock your bike to when you want a Break from camping..
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Yep, they certified it, all right. The larger TiGr was ART Certified as a "2" on a 1 to 5 scale - about what a ulock with a street price of 10% as much might rate. Note: TiGr's own videos compare their lock to very humble ulocks. It is what it is: light, expensive, modest security.
You will see that there are no 5-star rated u-locks. There are a few locks in the chain category with a 5-star rating. The 5-star locks tend to be very heavy and designed more for locking up a motorcycle than for carrying around on a bicycle.
The New York Fahgettaboudit, along with a few other u-locks from other manufactures, have a 4-star rating. They are excellent locks.
There are a fair number of locks with 3-star and 2-star ratings, also excellent locks. You can see for yourself what other locks have the same 2-star rating as the 125 TiGr Locks. You don't see lower-end u-locks, or chain or any of the lighter folding locks on the list because they either do not meet all ART standards or because the manufacture has not submitted them for ART certification.
We have not been able to break 1.25" wide TiGr Locks with bolt cutters in our testing. That is not to say there are no bolt cutters in the world than can break it. There may be; we just haven’t found any. The 125 TiGr met the ART Foundation standard for a 4-star rating in their bolt cutter machine testing.
The 0.75" wide versions of the TiGr, which are lighter, more flexible and less expensive than the 1.25" wide versions, are susceptible to bolt cutters because there is a 1/2" less Ti to break. Bolt cutters are efficient machines (although hard to conceal as noted above). Unlike cable, the 075 TiGr Locks are not susceptible to wire cutters or tin snips (hand tools that are easy to carry/conceal), or leverage attacks.
At the end of the day, your bike lock choice comes down to balancing your wants as a rider with your needs for security. You always want to enjoy the ride. Sometimes you need a good lock. At TiGr Lock we want to protect both your bike and your bike riding enjoyment.
Please send a note to info@tigrlock.com if you have any questions for us about our locks. We love to talk bikes and locks and would love to hear from you.
Last edited by TiGr; 07-15-14 at 06:50 PM. Reason: clarification
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I use an M-Wave D 8.6 Combination Lock, it is a combination lock-cable, weighs 2.4oz. For touring, people seem to respect what you are doing. In the past for most of my touring, I used my helmet. Just buckle it through the rear wheel and down tube. It will just stop someone from rolling off with your bike, since lifting it is unlikely. Never had a problem. the M-wave is a huge step up in security for me.
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I went to the hardware store and got 4 feet of light steel cable with plastic coating, steel ferrules and a light padlock and made my own. Granted it is far from theft proof but it at least requires the would be thief to have tools. Since my bike is never far off, it works effectively.
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I agree with this approach. I used 900 lbs test Great White Shark leader, exceptional lightweight for it's strength. Very very difficult to cut ( have you seen their teeth?)
#19
What's the lightest package for this? Is something like the mini 21" chain locks from Kryptonite my best bet? Here's one.
#20
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If I was a thief and I figured out this trick, I'd probably be inclined to steal it on principle.
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Kryptonite U-lock is not a bad choice. Around the city where I'm at and going to LA, I'm pretty comfortable with a kinda weaker Kryptonite U-lock knock-off, and that is an Onguard lock. Thinner shackle, but it's all that's needed. You don't really want to carry around a bunch of weight. At least I don't. I have Kryptonite U-locks and they just stay at home really.
There's lots of sizes to chose from. Get the smallest that you feel would work for what you want it for.
There's lots of sizes to chose from. Get the smallest that you feel would work for what you want it for.
#22
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Certain campgrounds on the Pacific Coast have been raided by bike thieves at night that specifically go after the bikes in the hike and bike sites, along with anything else that's not nailed down--generators are another popular item. Half Moon Bay had a really bad rep for this in the past. Bikes in San Francisco will also vanish, even though locked.
If you have to leave it outside a place with wifi, make sure you can keep the bike in sight through the window. You may also invest in a motion alarm, or at least a fake one with blinking LED that may give a thief pause for reflection.
If you have to leave it outside a place with wifi, make sure you can keep the bike in sight through the window. You may also invest in a motion alarm, or at least a fake one with blinking LED that may give a thief pause for reflection.
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