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  1. #1
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    What's your ideal Velocity touring wheelset?

    Hi guys (& gals), we're looking at providing some "stock" touring builds here at Velocity/The Wheel Department and wondering what you all are looking for. As always, we can customize any build, but I think that consumers often like the convenience of being able to order a wheelset with a single click.

    My inclination is to offer disc/non-disc options, steel freehub body hubs, and 130/135 options (disc would be 135 only), DT brass nips and DT double butted spokes. We'd still have the option of building to other hubs if you provide them.

    Any favorite rim choices from our lineup? Off the top of my head I was thinking the Dyad and Cliffhanger would be the two best choices for lighter/heavier duty options.
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

  2. #2
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    Too late as I've already had my dream wheels built.
    In my defense I did steer towards Velocity as I grabbed Dyads for my Surly Ogre and Extra-wheel trailer build.
    The front wheel and the trailer wheel are twins in that they both have Son28 dynohubs with 36 CX-Ray spokes and Dyad rims.
    The rear is a Rohloff 14 speed IGH, again with 36 Sapim CX-Ray spokes and Dyad rim.
    I went with Dyads as they are the 700c extrusion of my Moulton bicycles 20" (406) Aeroheat which have never given any trouble.
    They have a reputation for a strong light'ish rim and I hope utilising them with the strong but again light Sapim CX-Rays I've made up a little ground weight-wise after choosing to go IGH and dynohub.
    I went with polished unpainted hubs, the CX-Rays are stainless steel and the Dyads are silver, all amalgamated together hopefully offering a somewhat classic look to my black frame and stainless steel Gilles Berthoud fenders.
    I think the nipples are called Polyax and are aliminium whilst the disk rotors are 160 and 203mm respectively.
    The bike has just cracked the 500km mark with no issue from the wheels.

    If the Dyads fail to live up to expectation then I'll be considering either the Cliffhanger or some Chukkers



    Last edited by rifraf; 12-17-13 at 08:40 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member bhchdh's Avatar
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    Dyad 36h, 700c, XT hubs, 3X lacing, rim brakes
    Last edited by bhchdh; 12-17-13 at 08:49 AM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhchdh View Post
    Dyad 36h, 700c, XT hubs, 3X lacing, rim brakes
    That's what I built up for my touring bike, although I used a DH-3N72 dynamo hub for the front. For the spokes I used DT Swiss double-butted, 14/15.

    I've only built a few wheelsets, so I'm certainly no pro, but I built these carefully in 2010 and have not had to touch them since. They've seen decent use, the most notable of which was a fully loaded cross-country tour.

  5. #5
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    I have Sturmey Archer 90mm hubs. Heavy as a brick but plenty quick.
    I used black Dyad rims, WH13 heavy spokes, locking brass nipples with Schwalbe marathon plus 35 mm tires, schrader tubes. Why don't Dyads have a color choice ???
    6000 miles and not a speck of wobble. All my other stock wheels needed truing every time I had the tire off.
    I bought a third rim in case I need a Rohloff. I always found unpainted rims to be impossible to keep looking good.
    I didn't really like any of the other rims.

    There is zero chance I would ever leave home with any finicky derailleur.

  6. #6
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    I am heavier than most, and have had wheel problems in the past. For myself, I had a set of wheels for rim brakes built this way:
    White Industries 40 hole hubs, 135mm rear
    Dyad 700c rims
    DT spokes

  7. #7
    Senior Member robow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhchdh View Post
    Dyad 36h, 700c, XT hubs, 3X lacing, rim brakes
    Look great to me, if you need 130 in the rear then I would suggest 105 36h hubs for a great bang for the buck.

  8. #8
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    Built 2 Surly LHT this Fall and the wheels I built were 26" AreoHeat rims. I have been very happy with the choice.

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    I would think the NoBS and Cliffhanger over the Chucker and Dyad given that many people like wider tires on their touring bikes. LX instead of XT. No 32 spoke rear wheels unless it's 26".

    Ideal kind of implies cost secondary, my $.02 is that durability and value over ideal is preferable. Folks who want an ideal set of wheels will have them custom built.

    The market I'd be looking at is affordable, durable replacement wheel for hybrid, mtn and touring bikes not ideal touring wheel.

    As an aside I'm wondering if the NoBS rims can handle wide tires at higher pressures better than the Dyad or if the sidewalls are thicker for rim brakes.
    Last edited by LeeG; 12-17-13 at 11:21 AM.

  10. #10
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I built up my touring wheelsets before I ever heard of Velocity as a company.

    what I did use is probably not where you wanted the thread to go.



    but the investment in a Rohloff hub in the long run is a good one.

    CC, QR type, external shift box is easy to remove wheel for flat tires,
    and the future option of a disc brake is still good to have..
    now for 36 hole rims too.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 12-18-13 at 10:25 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeG View Post
    I would think the NoBS and Cliffhanger over the Chucker and Dyad given that many people like wider tires on their touring bikes.
    It seems to me that for those choosing 700c wheels, the Dyad would be in the sweet spot in terms of width.

  12. #12
    mev
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    I used Cliffhanger rims on recent (supported) tour across Africa. I had some issues with rim splitting which velocity was kind enough to take care of under warranty.
    Still think Cliffhanger is reasonable rim though am also curious on comparison with NoBS as far as being most rugged wheels.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derailed View Post
    It seems to me that for those choosing 700c wheels, the Dyad would be in the sweet spot in terms of width.
    Agreed, I think I just got confused which rim was which. Just the same it would be interesting to A/B test a Nobs rim and Dyad with max sized tire at max inflation and see which lasts longer in rim brake application.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Konasutra's Avatar
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    Just had a set of 36 hole Dyads laced up with 36 hole XT disc hubs. Have not even mounted them with rubber yet. Have a new pair of Schwalbe Marathons for them.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by seely View Post
    Any favorite rim choices from our lineup? Off the top of my head I was thinking the Dyad and Cliffhanger would be the two best choices for lighter/heavier duty options.
    I built wheels for my touring bike using the Synergy OC rim front and rear. I went with 700c rims, 36 spokes, disc hubs, and brass nipples. The Synergy OC is wide enough for the tires I use (700x35), a smidge lighter than the Dyad, and I like the fact that the off-center drilling leads to very even spoke tension across the wheel...

  16. #16
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tandem Tom View Post
    Built 2 Surly LHT this Fall and the wheels I built were 26" AreoHeat rims. I have been very happy with the choice.
    Good to hear -- I've got 26" Aeroheats on my MTB tourer as well as a pair of Cliffhangers I built up yesterday -- the Aero's probably have about 1,800 trouble free miles so far.
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

  17. #17
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    Appreciate the input everyone, its very helpful, and I'm glad to see the interest in the NoBS/Atlas rims. I think for a touring bike either one makes a solid choice.

    Any thoughts on loose ball vs. cartridge bearing hubs? I know in the past many touring cyclists seemed to favor loose ball, but I'm wondering with the quality of cartridge bearings these days if that has changed at all.

    For what I'm thinking right now is we'd offer in 26" & 700c:

    -Aeroheat/Dyad & Cliffhanger in disc w/ non-MSW and MSW
    -NoBS/Atlas (non-MSW only), disc or non-disc
    -Hubs would be our standard cartridge bearing ATB disc (135) or our new road hub (130), which has a steel freehub body with cartridge bearings
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

  18. #18
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rifraf View Post

    If the Dyads fail to live up to expectation then I'll be considering either the Cliffhanger or some Chukkers
    That's a sexy build for sure -- I doubt the Dyads will give you any trouble, but if they do I'm really liking the Cliffhanger lately. The extra width and thicker sidewalls are great for larger volume tires at higher pressures.
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

  19. #19
    Senior Member robow's Avatar
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    In this day and age, I vote for cartridge for sure. Life is too short to spend the evening with flashlight in hand searching for that bearing that you just dropped in the grass. Errr, not that something like that has ever happened to moi.

  20. #20
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Any thoughts on loose ball vs. cartridge bearing hubs? I know in the past many touring cyclists seemed to favor loose ball, but I'm wondering with the quality of cartridge bearings these days if that has changed at all.
    Shimano is a loose ball type , they dominate the market. if you crash or otherwise trash a wheel ,
    the spares, in shops will be shimano hubbed ,

    when would you foresee a field overhaul of a Hub? , do the service at home
    and it will be fine for a couple years at least. .

    some cartridge hubs Chris King, Phil wood every thing is premium level..

    Rohloff uses cartridge and needle bearings ,

    my last derailleur touring wheel build was around a Bullseye hubset , they used a drop in standard cartridge.

    we out here, busy summer hundreds touring the coast, would offer to ship your precious stuff home
    or you have to stay for several days if the wheel needs more than a replacement spoke..

    so from the shop perspective , there is the good enough expediency.. to consider.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 12-18-13 at 10:42 AM.

  21. #21
    Senior Member robow's Avatar
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    True, Shimano hubs are cup and cone but you don't need to separate the freehub from the hub body, the bearings being exposed enough when the axle cones are taken out. I like Shimano because they're almost disposable if and when you wear them out. But cartridge bearings are so easy to maintain and last so long, pick your poison.

  22. #22
    The Rock Cycle eofelis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Konasutra View Post
    Just had a set of 36 hole Dyads laced up with 36 hole XT disc hubs. Have not even mounted them with rubber yet. Have a new pair of Schwalbe Marathons for them.
    Those wheels sound familiar
    (My SO built them.)
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by seely View Post
    Appreciate the input everyone, its very helpful, and I'm glad to see the interest in the NoBS/Atlas rims. I think for a touring bike either one makes a solid choice.

    Any thoughts on loose ball vs. cartridge bearing hubs? I know in the past many touring cyclists seemed to favor loose ball, but I'm wondering with the quality of cartridge bearings these days if that has changed at all.

    For what I'm thinking right now is we'd offer in 26" & 700c:

    -Aeroheat/Dyad & Cliffhanger in disc w/ non-MSW and MSW
    -NoBS/Atlas (non-MSW only), disc or non-disc
    -Hubs would be our standard cartridge bearing ATB disc (135) or our new road hub (130), which has a steel freehub body with cartridge bearings
    What is the difference between a NoBS and an Atlas? They weigh the same but there's a $40difference.

    $.02 is to pick a low price point and market it as a reliable value replacement for 29'r and hybrids that were sold with low spoke count OEM wheels. An "ideal touring wheel" is well built and built for heavy use. The market for hybrid and mtn bike replacement wheels is undeniably greater than the touring market.

  24. #24
    Senior Member chriskmurray's Avatar
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    Obviously you guys know your rims well and which ones should handle touring well. I personally have been very curious about rims like your Atlas and NoBS for heavy duty loaded touring. So much in fact I built up a set of NoBS' laced to Deore hubs with Alpine spokes to go on my Xtracycle to try and kill them to see if they are up to the task.

    So far so, lots and lots of miles on them, a bike move, people hauling, grocery getting, getting them really hot descending Pikes Peak, salty winter goo and below 0 temps, wide tires at high pressure. I have really tried to hurt them and they still have not seen a spoke wrench since being built so I think I am finally close to being able to recommend them but to be honest, that fear is always in the back of my mind, that I will send someone on tour with them and they will be hundreds of miles from civilization and have a rim split.

    Don't forget quality spokes if you are targeting fully loaded tourists, I personally really like the Alpine 3's from DT and have always felt good sending people out on them.

    For hubs, most seem to be getting more comfortable with cartridge bearings. I personally prefer them as long as they have a quality freehub. If you can remove the freehub with basic tools like a pair of 5mm allen wrenches that is even better so if one was to break a spoke on the DS, it would be easy to replace on the road. Cup and cone works fine but I personally am a big fan of knowing there is little that can be done to permanently destroy a cartridge bearing hub.
    Last edited by chriskmurray; 12-18-13 at 08:07 PM.

  25. #25
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seely View Post
    Good to hear -- I've got 26" Aeroheats on my MTB tourer as well as a pair of Cliffhangers I built up yesterday -- the Aero's probably have about 1,800 trouble free miles so far.
    +1, for my 26" LHT I have two wheelsets I built a few years ago: 36 hole front/rear, XT hubs, DT Competition spokes, brass nipples, one wheelset has Aeroheat rims, the other has Cliffhangers. Nice wheels.

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