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Old 01-05-14, 11:36 AM   #26
sstorkel
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Originally Posted by xybaby View Post
Thanks! That's great! But do you feel any slight rubbing with 34t? In my case, the whole drivetrain will exceed the max sprocket and total capacity requirement of the 105 component. I just feel it will be harder to adjust it properly.
I, personally, wouldn't try to use a MTB 11-34 cassette with a 105-series RD. I don't like huge jumps between gears, which you'll end up with when using an 11-34 cassette. In addition, I can't imagine a 105 RD handling an 11-34 cassette without shift-quality being compromised. Since I shift the RD 10-100 times more than the FD I'd want shift performance in the rear to be as good as possible.

For those reasons, my tendency would be to make gearing adjustments at the front rather than the rear. If I were you, I'd buy a $10 chain keeper (Dog Fang, Jump Stop, etc) and a $20 24-tooth chain ring and see how far that gets you. If you're somewhat fit, not planning to tackle any huge climbs, and carrying a reasonable load (~40lbs) it may be all you need.

If you can't get the 24/39/50 combo to shift properly or the gearing isn't low enough, consider swapping cranks. I'd look at a 9- or 10-speed 26/36/48 trekking crank or 22/32/44 MTB crank. The Shimano M590 trekking crank is available for around $120 (including bottom bracket) and works very well. I'm using an earlier version of the Shimano crank (26/36/48) on my touring bike with an otherwise Ultegra 10-speed triple drivetrain.

If you need even lower gearing than a 22/32/44 crank and 11-28 cassette provide it's time to do some training rides, reduce your load... or start mucking around with the rear derailleur and cassette.
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Old 01-12-14, 12:15 PM   #27
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Thanks so much! Will the 9 speed MTB crankset work with 10 speed drivetrain? Should I also change FD?

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Originally Posted by sstorkel View Post
I, personally, wouldn't try to use a MTB 11-34 cassette with a 105-series RD. I don't like huge jumps between gears, which you'll end up with when using an 11-34 cassette. In addition, I can't imagine a 105 RD handling an 11-34 cassette without shift-quality being compromised. Since I shift the RD 10-100 times more than the FD I'd want shift performance in the rear to be as good as possible.

For those reasons, my tendency would be to make gearing adjustments at the front rather than the rear. If I were you, I'd buy a $10 chain keeper (Dog Fang, Jump Stop, etc) and a $20 24-tooth chain ring and see how far that gets you. If you're somewhat fit, not planning to tackle any huge climbs, and carrying a reasonable load (~40lbs) it may be all you need.

If you can't get the 24/39/50 combo to shift properly or the gearing isn't low enough, consider swapping cranks. I'd look at a 9- or 10-speed 26/36/48 trekking crank or 22/32/44 MTB crank. The Shimano M590 trekking crank is available for around $120 (including bottom bracket) and works very well. I'm using an earlier version of the Shimano crank (26/36/48) on my touring bike with an otherwise Ultegra 10-speed triple drivetrain.

If you need even lower gearing than a 22/32/44 crank and 11-28 cassette provide it's time to do some training rides, reduce your load... or start mucking around with the rear derailleur and cassette.
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Old 01-12-14, 01:30 PM   #28
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Thanks guys! It looks like I should change my mind and keep the drivetrain. If I plan to switch the rear cassette to 11-34t 10 speed one, will 105 handle it well? On shimano website, the max for 105 RD is 28T.
Try the OEM 105 RD first, if it doesn't clear the 34T use any 9S mountain group RD. The 10S mountain bike RDs have a different pull ratio and may not work with the STI shifters as I understand it... gurus will correct me if I'm wrong.

Brad
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Old 01-12-14, 05:14 PM   #29
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Thanks so much! Will the 9 speed MTB crankset work with 10 speed drivetrain?
As I said in my reply: I'm using a 10-speed Ultegra drive-train with a 9-speed MTB crank. It works very well.

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Should I also change FD?
Not unless it gives you problems. In my case, the 9-speed MTB crank came with a BB and several spacers. When I installed all of the spacers as indicated in the instructions, the road FD wouldn't shift to the outermost chainring on the MTB crank. I removed one 2.5mm spacer from the drive side of the BB and then everything worked. I did have to lower the FD to match the profile of the smaller chainrings on the MTB crank and I had to adjust the limit screws so that it shifted properly.
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Old 01-12-14, 08:39 PM   #30
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If your 105 rear derailleur doesn't shift onto the 34 tooth buy a Shimano Deore M591 rear derailleur. It's a 9 sp mountain derailleur derailleur that works perfectly with 10-sp 105 and 10-sp Ultegra STi shifters. These can be bought new for about $50. I bought 2 on Ebay for less than $30 new. They work perfectly, just as good as my Ultegra stuff!
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Old 01-20-14, 10:29 AM   #31
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Another solution is to tour LIGHT. There are threads on this-- and whole forums focused on backpacking light. 30/28 is pretty decent at 28.3 gear inches or so. I mean, you can always walk that one insane hill on the tour. You don't have to tell us about it.

If you need lower gearing, swapping the RD out and getting an 11-36 10 speed cassette takes the gearing down to 22 g.i.
I upgraded an old non-suspension steel-frame mountain bike for touring. I found that 22 gear inches works well for me while climbing steep hills even carrying a total load (bike, cargo, racks, etc., everything except me) of 88 pounds. I'm 69 years old and not a lifelong bike rider, so if it works for me, it should be fine for you, too.
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Old 01-20-14, 10:40 AM   #32
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Yea The MTB compact cranks get you a 22t 3rd chainring for hauling your home on the road , up hills

you can get a reasonable function , as Bar end shifter is not indexed , on the Left side.
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