Sharpshin

Never mind, found it....

Unless otherwise specified, "Road" rear hubs have 130 mm spacing. All fronts have 100 mm spacing.

bradtx

Front hubs are a standard 100 mm wide between the lock nuts.

Brad

Sharpshin

A long evening browsing and googling.

The appeal of hand spun wheels like Universal Cycles and the reportedly flawless construction thereof was decisive.....

OTOH they were fresh out of 36h Velocity Dyad rims and 36h Mavic A 319's.

Ended up pulling the trigger on....

Shimano 105 hubs...
Mavic A 719 36h rims
Wheelmith stainless butted spokes and 12mm brass nipples.

All in black, which seems to be the color scheme the bike is going down

Also bought to go with them an Alivio 11-32 8sp cassette.

The 700x32 Gator Hardshells ain't gonna be cheap either but having run the 27" version of that tire for a few hundred harsh city miles now on the Voyageur I will accept no other.

I expect I'll have a bulletproof wheel/tire combo on this upcoming trip, worth the expense just for the peace of mind.

I am poorer now but life is good.

Thanks all for the advice.

Mike

Sharpshin

The wheels got here this week.

Here's the bike as it was last month on the occasion of that 100 miler......





And here's the way it looked this morning, new 700c wheels installed, Mavic 719 36h rims, 17 ga. spoke, Shimano 105 hubs.....



I have to say I preferred the looks with the 27" wheels and drop bars BUT that 27" rear hub was working loose again already and the new bar arrangement is MUCH better for comfort and range of vision.

The old Shimano XCE rear deraillieur reaches all 8 sprokets on the 11-32 casette but clearance is so tight on the high end that I limited the deraileur to the next highest 13 (??) tooth sprocket, hence I have a seven speed once again but a meaure of my usual moderate pace that even riding the middle 33 tooth crank up front (Nashbar Mountain Bike crankset) I have little use for an 11 tooth sprocket in back... (sorry about the rotation of the pic, a Photobucket glitch)




32 teeth is the largest sprocket the old deraillieur can handle, I may switch it out for something that can handle a 34 tooth and up.


Saddles are going to be a puzzle, currently I'm riding this $16 Wal-Mart Zefal and its fine, but I dunno how it will hold up day after day....



The last mod will be foam grips over the bars inside of the ones I have on, I already have them on hand but this will come last after I'm sure I want to stick with the original downtube friction shifters instead of bar-mounted shifters.

Thanks for all the advice all.

Mike

bradtx

Mike, You may only need a small DS spacer to clear the top cog which may not even require redishing the wheel.

The touring bike framed beater/gravel grinder/loaner outer that I should finish today has an 8S shifter and a 7S cassette. The previous owner simply relied on the spoke protector, which removed itself in pieces when I removed the cassette for cleaning.

Brad

Sharpshin

Not clear on the meaning, by top cog do you mean the smallest 11 tooth or the biggest 32 tooth?

Anyhow, here's the deraillieur on the 32 tooth sprocket, a 34 tooth sprocket actually contacts the chain above the wheel on the deraillieur. OTOH although the derailleur is very close to the spokes on that spocket, the range of motion is absolutely maxed out such that, short of it coming loose, it cannot hit the spokes. Prob'ly I'm going to get a spoke guard anyway.

I guess the real issue is whether its worth buying a newer/different deraillieur.



Mike

bradtx

The RD on my regular tourer is also maxed out as far as inward lateral movement is concerned (7S RD now shifting an 8S.) and it works just fine. Yours will probably be just as good.

I could've worded my reply better, but installing a washer or two between the hub axle's RHS locknut and the chain stay is what I mean.

Brad

lopek77

I bought the wheel set from TreeFortBikes.com 2 years ago. I run 28mm Vittoria Rubbino tires on them. I'm also on heavy side at around 300 with all my gear. These wheels are absolutely bomb proof. They are still true after few k miles. I decided to buy a wheel based on Velocity Dyad rim after I read some great article about the best touring /read heavy duty/ rims. The other choice was Mavic A719 if I remember correctly, both 36h.

Rear 8 speed, 7 with the spacer https://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar...22373102___113
Front https://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar...22373099___113

fietsbob

I note the Ergon grips, on an other wise un taped trekking handle bar..

NB you miss a number of additional comfortable bar grip positions ,
vs having the whole bar wrapped with padded bar tape.

My preference is thickly double wrapping the whole bar ,

and then offering the front back and sides as a variety of places to lay my hands.

Most comfy, rotating the bar relatively flat , laying my open palms on the sides and rear 'corner' ..

precluded by that aluminum clamp, of those grips..


I use Ergon grips on straight handle bars .. there, they are excellent.

fietsbob

BTW , HandSpun is the back room wheel-building part of QBP, so any LBS with a QPB
account can get them shipped there .

Sharpshin

Thanks for the input. I liked the gel tubing grips on my old drop bar and have purchased enough "Grab On" brand "Maxi Foam Touring Grips" to cover this whole new bar. I was thinking these are equivalent to padded wrapping without the hassle of bar tape coming loose. No problems with those Ergon grips but they are mostly uneeded as earlier I was riding on the bare metal top part of the old drop bars without serious problems (with padded cycling gloves).

Anyhow, I was holding off on covering the bars until I knew I wasn't going to switch to bar mounted shifters, prob'ly have the gel grips on by next week.

Mike

Sharpshin

Now that I have some miles on the new wheels, here's something totally unexpectected.... a weird sort of hollow sound resonance off of those new Mavic rims.

The somewhat wide double-wall rim, combined with those 32mm Gatorskins at 100psi combine to amplify road noise: A low roaring sound on pavement, a rain-on-a-tin-roof effect in gravel and dirt roads.

I'm thinking going to thicker thorn-resistant tubes might quiet them some.

Anyone else experienced anything like this?

Mike

fietsbob

Just a bit of personal history .. the Grab On grips, when exposed to sun and UV dries and crumbles ,
and you will have tiny pieces of it come off on your hands ..

80s working in the LBS I saw them thinned to no thickness left where gripped the most often..

But , when wrapped with black cotton bar tape , they were kept in the dark of that tape ,

and would then last almost forever ., just replace the cotton tape as it wears ..

IDK about your specific tire rim combination , did run TR tubes on a 9 month tour of
Ireland And Scotland ,
heavier tires, different rims .

do find the TR tube has to be topped up if rolling resistance has to be minimized,

it will let you know when a bit low, as the effort to turn the wheel is noticeably increased.

cyccommute 

True, they used to do that as did many of the cheap knock-offs. However, Grab On has added UV protectorants to the polymer formulation which slows down the degradation significantly. And the foam is far less compactable. I use Grab-on grips on all of my mountain bikes and have for close to 25 years. I haven't had any grips that have degraded for nearly that long.

Sharpshin

The latest bar set-up as of this morning. Those foam tubes are ridiculously easy to slide around on the bar if one has access to the compressed air of a school auto shop. Note that I can change the grips if needed while leaving the foam tubing in place.



Mike