Rear rack idea....
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Middle of Montana
Posts: 467
Bikes: 1996 Specialized Stumpjumper
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Rear rack idea....
I've posted on my "new" stumpjumper touring bike and it is now complete. The maiden voyage, albeit short, is complete. I'm now looking into the rack situation. I know there is the OMM racks but to me, they just don't look strong and durable. I understand that they ARE, I just don't like the "one size fits all" design.
What I have done is this: I set the rack in position and realizd that the mounting holes lined up perfectly with my my rear skewer. I had about an inch of room above my tires left too. The upper mounts glide perfectly up to my seat stay and if I turn both upper mounts inward they fit like they were designed for this. My rear fender even lines up perfectly with the fender mounts built into the rack. So why shouldn't I do this? Is there a liabilty issue with mounting the rack BETWEEN the skewer pressure points and the frame? Also, could I use a tandem rear skewer to give me some more bolt length? What about the skewer used for the BOB trailers? Seems to me like it would work. I like how it sits nice and low, without being TOO low, on the 21" frame. I know changing the rear tirre might be a bugger but so what if it takes an extra 10 minutes?
Any input?
I can get some pics of my plan if needed but it's raining like monsoon season here.
On the front rack I am going to use the rack mounts built into the surly 1X1 fork (bottom) and then use the canti bosses for the top with a piece of machined aluminum or stainless bracket. Those boss mounts are perfect for this application since I am using discs up front.
Thanks for any input, I was really concerned about mounting a rear rack on the stumpjumper but it seems, if I'm not overlooking something, that I've got this problem licked.
D
What I have done is this: I set the rack in position and realizd that the mounting holes lined up perfectly with my my rear skewer. I had about an inch of room above my tires left too. The upper mounts glide perfectly up to my seat stay and if I turn both upper mounts inward they fit like they were designed for this. My rear fender even lines up perfectly with the fender mounts built into the rack. So why shouldn't I do this? Is there a liabilty issue with mounting the rack BETWEEN the skewer pressure points and the frame? Also, could I use a tandem rear skewer to give me some more bolt length? What about the skewer used for the BOB trailers? Seems to me like it would work. I like how it sits nice and low, without being TOO low, on the 21" frame. I know changing the rear tirre might be a bugger but so what if it takes an extra 10 minutes?
Any input?
I can get some pics of my plan if needed but it's raining like monsoon season here.
On the front rack I am going to use the rack mounts built into the surly 1X1 fork (bottom) and then use the canti bosses for the top with a piece of machined aluminum or stainless bracket. Those boss mounts are perfect for this application since I am using discs up front.
Thanks for any input, I was really concerned about mounting a rear rack on the stumpjumper but it seems, if I'm not overlooking something, that I've got this problem licked.
D
#2
I ride my bike
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 421
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
well, I had to take my rear tire off 5 or so times on tour (flats) if the rack was flopping around the whole time it may have annoyed me. although I did have to take everything off my rack to do this anyway , so on second thought it may not be too bad. And with MTB tires, I dont think flats will be as much of an issue. (?) If everything else lines up that well, then Id say go for it. If and when you have to change a tire you just deal with it. The racks "leg" where the skewer is going through is made of aluminum? this may deform or squish under the pressure of a tight skewer plus a heavy load and its associated forces. I think on my rack this flattened part doesnt provide the surface area to match my frame or skewer.. this combined with it being made of soft aluminum, makes it suspect.. Id try it but watch it. ride for a week or so before leaving and check it everyday.
I think you'll have to try it and see.
~Steve
I think you'll have to try it and see.
~Steve
#3
hello
I think your idea sounds fine with use of a tandem skewer. Your frame's flush vertical dropout is perfect for this but as Revtor points out, I would be concerned about deformation of the rack legs. The setup is basically similar in principle as the OMM rack. Of course, removing the rear wheel means pulling the skewer entirely out but that's no big deal.
EDIT:....12 hours later.... On second thought, don't do it unless you first mount your rack mounts on small thick aluminum plates. These plates will provide enough secure surface contact area for the skewer to bite into.
EDIT:....12 hours later.... On second thought, don't do it unless you first mount your rack mounts on small thick aluminum plates. These plates will provide enough secure surface contact area for the skewer to bite into.
Last edited by roadfix; 03-28-05 at 10:58 AM.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Middle of Montana
Posts: 467
Bikes: 1996 Specialized Stumpjumper
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Actually the area of the rack that the skewer would go through is substantial. It's not a blackburn knock off with the thinner aluminum "tab".
I'll get picks up today and maybe that'll clear it up a little......
D
I'll get picks up today and maybe that'll clear it up a little......
D
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Posts: 12,948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
If your bike has rack mounting eyelets at the dropouts, use them. Skewer mounting racks are for use when you don't have them.
You can mount the top stays on the inside or outside of the seat-stays. You may get more stability using the outside but I use both ways with no problems.
You can mount the top stays on the inside or outside of the seat-stays. You may get more stability using the outside but I use both ways with no problems.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Middle of Montana
Posts: 467
Bikes: 1996 Specialized Stumpjumper
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by MichaelW
If your bike has rack mounting eyelets at the dropouts, use them. Skewer mounting racks are for use when you don't have them.
You can mount the top stays on the inside or outside of the seat-stays. You may get more stability using the outside but I use both ways with no problems.
You can mount the top stays on the inside or outside of the seat-stays. You may get more stability using the outside but I use both ways with no problems.
Thanks for the input though.
D
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 325
Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I just got some rear OMM Cold Springs for Discs today. Man they are SOLID. When I was thinking of getting them, I was really skeptical like how good could these racks really be? But after reading positive review and hearing nothing but good things, I decided to buy a set; I'd sell them if I didn't like em. They arrived this morning, I mounted them in about 10 minutes and I'm not even worried about them at all now. I have a tendancy to worry about my gear a lot but I don't even give these a second thought once they're on. I guess that's exactly what you want in a rack, not having to worry about them at all (unlike my last rack).
I'm not sure if this means anything to ya. Just giving you another opinion to work with.
I'm not sure if this means anything to ya. Just giving you another opinion to work with.