bmike

I can charge my iPhone and run my Garmin or GoPro from my dyno. All through USB using a usbwerk (the sinewave would do the same), so, not really sure of your point.

Bicycle365

That is inherently an Apple problem, the iPod/Phone/Pad are far more sensitive to input current than a lot of others. The solution is the same to avoid the cut in/cut out problem , Put a buffer between the source (solar/dyno) and the device. Cheap battery packs cannot accept a charge and simultaneously output a steady current , high quality ones like the Voltaic V15 ( I use a Fuse 6w solar panel and a SON Dyno ) can handle this easily after all its made to take the varying input of the fickle sun. If you want to read more about the Apple issue google "Minty Boost" its a DIY voltage regulator for using AA batteries to charge phones and such It has a whole section about the special circuits needed for charging apple products without cut outs or the annoying " this device is not compatible with your whatever" or something like that. My site has a fair bit about charging and solar/dyno usage including schematics and installation photos. I had to do my homework on this as using a dyno to charge USB devices has the same issues as solar, varying source current as solar does not work at night and dynos don't work when stopped or <3mph.

Bicycle365

The SON 28 Dyno puts out 6 volts AC at 3 watts so that is 1/2 an amp.
I believe most if not all dynos are about the same as that ***output is legally required by German law for bike lights?*** Little sketchy about that but I believe that true.

As for USB the USB standard is for 5volts DC at a minimum of 500 milliamps (or to say it another way,1/2 an amp) Same as the Dyno ! amps is amps is amps ,even after converting . Now most devices will tolerate a little less current before just not accepting a charge or in Apples case popping up an "incompatible message". The trick is to charge a battery in between the finicky device and the source. Batteries don't care how low the incoming current is, it will just take what it can get and be happy commonly called "trickle charging"

J.C. Koto

@Bicycle365 very interesting, thanks for your input!

ModeratedUser

The point is that there seems to be very little on what the hub setup can actually keep powered. sure you can charge your toys, but are you going to have enough charge to keep going? With no specs (amperage) there's really no way for me to judge what I'd actually be liking to use. So far it still seems like a solar panel and nice wall charger is the way for me to go. And I'm planning to also go down south, Mexico.

ModeratedUser

So amperage = watts ÷ volts?

In regards to a using batteries as a "buffer". Yeah from my messing around this looks like what I'm going to do. Your reference to your site is regarding this page right?

Bicycle365

Amperage does = watts/volts correct, and yes that is the correct link to my site. In order to try and explain my thinking and what I have found to work for a similar list of devices I made a YouTube video this afternoon walking through the system. I created a new topic in this fourm with a link to it or you can get to it at YouTube directly from here Bicycle touring charging system walkthrough - YouTube

nun

Here is how I power my electronics. I use a Hyperjuice mini to charge my iPhone, although there are probably better batteries available today and a pack of AAAs for the rest of the stuff. It's lightweight, inexpensive and works well for tours when you expect to be away from a mains socket for periods under 5 or 6 days. I'm repeating myself here, but I really don't understand why people make things so complicated.

bmike

What do you mean 'to keep going'?
I eat. When I turn the pedals and the bike moves I get power. I can use this for lights or for charging. I can top off my Linefuel battery, power the GPS (but AAs last a long time), charge the iPhone, etc.

Have you read thru any of the manufacturers tech specs? I'm sure Peter White will send you whatever you might need regarding the SON hubs.

350htrr

I find it hard to believe that a dynamo hub is as good as a "properly" sized solar panel once you start to add more than a couple of gadgets... JMO

nun

The thing with solar panels is you need the sun and there is a practical limit to their size. With a dyno hub you'll be able to charge an iPhone in about 2 hours riding at 15kph or a big 10000mAh battery in around 12 hours...the numbers are very rough estimates.

Juha

Google StVZO dynamo specification. Or, "Straßenverkehrszulassungsordnung" if you're brave enough . 6V, 3W so 0,5A of current. I also remember reading somewhere that the dynamo must reach the specified output at a fixed (fairly low) speed, something like 12-15 km/h. I cannot find a reference now, so this part may be outdated info.

Many devices prefer more charging current than the 0,5A (or even require more to charge at all). If you look at USB power banks (additional batteries), most are able to deliver 1A, and many provide 2,1A which is very useful for tablets. I agree it would be a good practice to charge a buffer battery in between the dynohub source and the charged device. There will be consiberable losses in the chain (dynohub to buffer battery, buffer battery to decive), but at least you will be able to get the current you need, at a steady rate. Same goes for solar, really.

--J

nun

The variable output of a dyno hub and the advisability of a buffering battery made me realize that I don't need a dynomo (or solar panel for that matter). A 12000mAh battery will recharge an iPhone at least 6 times and will fully recharge in 8 to 10 hours. So one night a week in a motel or plugging in at lunch or at a library every so often will keep the battery charged. If you aren't going to be doing expedition touring why do you need anything other than a mains socket?

Rob_E

I agree that while I want a dynamo charging solution, I have not yet needed it. I carry a battery that gets plugged in at every opportunity, and it's been sufficient. But that means trying to find a restaurant table with a plug under it, or leaving a battery in the campground restroom over night, or just keeping an ever-vigilant eye out for that stray, open socket in a city park. It works, and that's why it makes it difficult to justify an expensive dynohub solution. But I already have the hub. I love having hub-powered lights because I never have to worry about when I last replaced/recharged the batteries. I would love to extend that lack-of-worry to other gadgets as well by knowing that I always have a way to keep things charged. Even when I'm not traveling, just being able to charge my phone when riding around town would be nice. So I wouldn't consider it a need by any means, but there have been a number of times when I would have enjoyed not having to worry about where my next electricity fix was coming from.

milestonerides

I recently wrote a review about the Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus Solar Kit. I'll bring that on longer trips in sunny conditions. On shorter trips and conditions with less sun, I have a battery pack. I tour with my iPad for blogging, iPhone, my mirrorless camera, and Garmin Touring GPS.

bmike

same reason you tour with a transverse saddle bag and I use more traditional bikepacking kit.
different strokes / different folks.

the usbwerk has a small cache battery included with it. its tiny, but buffers the current when the going gets really slow.
for me? its not being tied to sitting in a restaurant or looking for power. its convenient. and while i do carry a small lime fuel as a buffer, it has to be far lighter than a 12000mAh batter.
and, i added a USB rechargeable headlight to the mix, that also doubles as my camp light. while riding in the daylight i can top that off as well.


but yes, in general, a battery pack and access to mains is likely more than enough for most folks.

nun

Agreed......but I still find a pack of AAAs to be the most convenient way to power my lights and radio given that they are so easy to buy at stores. Having a hub dynamo is convenient, but with 10000mAh batteries coming down in price so quickly they are the least expensive and simplest way to solve the power problem.

bmike

I should note that getting out of the disposable battery game was a goal for me. I still use them in the SPOT and GPS, but I no longer need them for bike and headlamp. I can extend the GPS range if I plug it into the dyno. I looked at rechargeable options to run off the dyno for AA and AAAS but haven't seen anything that I think will work.

350htrr

The "problem" with solar panels is that most people don't want to pay, what a good solar panel costs... Not that there is insufficient sunlight on a cloudy day. Believe you me that there are solar panels out there plenty good enough for any bike trip use in any kinds of weather/light...

nun

My goal was to power as much as possible with disposable AAAs so that I can dedicate my Hyperjuice mini to the iPhone. It means that I get maximum charges for the iPhone and minimize my components and cables.