raybo

I have plane tickets from SF to Milan for a 3 week loop starting and ending at the airport (I likely won't even go into Milan--been there already). It heads east along the southern parts of the lakes to Vicenza and then north and back west through mountain valleys and the northern parts of the lakes.

Here is a roughed out route. Note, there are lots of waypoints and the map can take a while to load.

I am slowly adding details to my tour plans and would be very interested in any comments or ideas.

Much of the route was found on this fabulous touring in Italy website.

I arrive in Italy April 8. It is a bit early and it will likely rain some of the time. I have added a couple extra days to account for rain delay. I am staying below 1200 meters in an attempt to avoid snow. Should the weather be good, I might try some higher passes.

indyfabz

Why that side of the Brenta SE from Trento, especially below Primolano? That's a divided highway. The other side is much nicer and has popular trail portions. It passes through nice towns and has great views of the river.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/davez2...57633982080965

https://www.flickr.com/photos/davez2...57633982080965

https://www.flickr.com/photos/davez2...57633982080965

https://www.flickr.com/photos/davez2...57633982080965

raybo

First off, nice photos!

The route is a first approximation as the mapping site I am using won't follow bike paths that aren't roads. I see the path on the other side of the river and will ride on it, if I can find it.

Thanks for taking the time to check it out.

indyfabz

It's combination of roads and paths. This is some of it:

BASSANO BIKE ROUTE - Ospedaletto, TAA

When we rode up that way we would cross back over the river as shown on at the southern end of the map. I recommend doing that and then working your way into Bassano. That's because, if you keep going south on the west wide of the river, the road gets busy and it's not that bike friendly. Going between Borso and Bassano I remember taking that road at the very end of the map (Via Rivoltella) and then working my way into the center of Bassano using some smaller roads to a main one.

You will see that further up there appears to be a section that shows no road or trail. There is a connection there. You can see it on StreetView but it seems to have got left off the map so I just drew a straight line through the area.

kpfeif

I did something similar, but shorter, last summer. One thing we did was take the train from Tirano to St. Moritz in Switzerland, to save a couple thousand meters of climbing. There's a narrow gauge rail with an open viewing car; it was a pretty fun alternative to riding it. Then from St. Moritz you stay mostly pretty high on the way over to Livigno and on to Bormio. You should try to make time to climb the Stelvio!

It was super cold and rainy last July, although I've become soft after the last three years of California drought.

spinnaker

The hostels at Verbania and Mennaggio are excellent.

Looks like you will be riding near the Cento Valli An excellent ride and alternative to the shoreline. There is a narrow gauge railway that goes up to Re if you are feeling lazy. Re is at the top of the pass. You can actually catch a train at the southern end of Maggiore.

It is a real toss up of what way to go, both are beautiful.




If you do decide to ride the Cento then don't snap any pictures at the border on that road. There is a military base nearby. I snapped a photo and was met by several young men with automatic weapons. Apparently photos are forbidden. Thank goodness for digital photos.


This place gave me a good chuckle.



I don't know if the ladder is still there.



The road between Lugano and Meganggio is an excellent ride. But there is also a ferry that takes you to Porlezza. I have done both and both are good options though you could probably ride it faster as the ferry makes plenty of stops along the way.

If you are going counter clockwise that climb out of Menaggio up to Cardano is a long steep one so be prepared. Porelezza to Cardano is not all that bad for some reason. I have done both directions.

Consider staying a day in Menaggio and take the ferry over to Belllaggio for the climb up to Ghisallo de Madonna. There is also the Villa Balbianello which appeared in Casino Royale.

I have been in the area twice and both times did not make the climb due to heavy rain!

A little bit off of your route but the Brenner Pass into Innsbruck is awesome. If you have some spare time, you could take the train from Trento up to the top to the Brenner then either ride back or make the ride into Innsbruck. There are some excellent bike paths up that way. One from Innsbruck to Landeck then another one from Nauders to Trento. I took the bus between Landeck and Nauders but wished I had ridden it, . The valley is so beautiful.




To start your ride, I would suggest staying at the Tres Lenoi in Somma Lombardo. They have a shuttle and garage to store your bike box. They should store for free but make sure you get that in writing. There was a bike shop right around the corner. There are a couple of restaurants nearby and a castle and cathedral to explore if you have time to kill

spinnaker

Also don't know if it can be done from Luganno to Porlezza but certainly Porlezza to Lugano, there is a military base that looks like a tunnel, so be careful not to roll in like someone else almost did.

There is a tunnel bypass for bikes only just outside of Porlezza on Luganno. And there is another bypass up in that area but can't remember exactly where. Just when coming to a tunnel look for options, there might be a bypass.


And don't go blowing right through Polezza or you will miss this:

On of my favorite little villages.

Just remembered you are a veggie, but these are my favorite places for lunch. Not sure if you have been to Italy before or have noticed but most towns have markets that open early, I would grab some chicken but there are plenty of fruits and veggies to be had.

spinnaker

Looks like you will be going to Bormio. Not too far from the Stelvio.



Not sure if I would have the guts to ride than one.

spinnaker

Check out Warmshowers for Itay. There is a real nice family in Cologne, you will be passing just north of them outside of Bergamo, and there is anther nice family in Trento, looks like you will be passing through.

raybo

Bruce (Spinnaker),

Thanks for the detailed comments. I will print them out and try to work them into my route.

I will be riding counter-clockwise from Milan. I riding along the southern part of the lakes east and then into the valleys coming back west in the hope that my legs will be better able to handle the climbs later in the tour.

I am hoping to ride to Bormio, but I would be there in mid-April and there is likely to still be snow in most, if not all, passes. I'll be more adventurous if the weather is good. I like the idea of busing to the top and then riding down!

spinnaker

I would highly suggest clockwise from Milan unless you already plan on using trains to start out your trip. That area south of the lakes is an awfully boring ride with lots of traffic.

Varase is dismal and there is no reason to go there unless you have friends or something. In fact for some reason most of the towns around the airport have a completely different feel from towns in the rest of Italy. They are just too modern. Pretty much describes Somma Lombardo but the advantage of staying there first night is that you can get pretty much anything there. There is even an American style mall walking distance from the hotel.

Como is a little better but overrated IMHO. I think most of the reputation comes from the lake itself which is gorgeous.

If you went clockwise, it would allow you to make up time using trains which are plentiful south of the lakes. And you would not be missing all that much except maybe the occasional castle.

raybo

Bruce/Spinnaker,

Thanks for the feedback. I'll check out your recommendations.

I am basing my route out of Malpensa on this site: Lakes of Lombardia and Piemonte - Overview - Italy Cycling Guide . I have read some journals and know that the area north of Malpensa is urban and not very interesting. This is why I hope to ride up the the Ticino River (or the canal next to it) to the route and then follow it as best I can.

The truth is that much of northern Italy is urban (especially around the larger towns) and it will take a while to find the pretty spots.

spinnaker

I don't think that bike path goes very far north of Malpensa. It does go south all the way to Pavia (a very pleasant ride) which is a very nice little town in the north, along with Cremona (my favorite), Modena and a few others. I do prefer the lakes and north.

That road from Malpensa to Maggorrie is not all that bad. The lake shore roads were not all that bad and never felt uncomfortable. Garda is supposed to be bad but never actually rode it and took a ferry at warning of our Warmshowers hosts. Doesn't look like you are doing Garda anyway, as shame because it is really impressive. The problem is there is just too much to see.