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Thread: Fit Check

  1. #1
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    Fit Check

    Can I have a fit check? I only have 2 stems at the moment so I've taken pictures of both in positive and negative positions.
    longnegative.jpgShortNega.jpgShortPositive.jpgShortNega.jpg

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    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    It's really difficult to see the differences.

    What stems do you have?

    Also, plug in the numbers here to see the results of A:B comparisons of the stem swaps: Stem Chart

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    Side view short vid of a rev-out on rollers would be best as far as giving people a fair look at your position.

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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    It's really difficult to see the differences.

    What stems do you have?

    Also, plug in the numbers here to see the results of A:B comparisons of the stem swaps: Stem Chart
    Thanks for the calculator
    I had a feeling it might be difficult. I was struggling to see any differences when I was taking the pictures.
    100mm Dont know angle possibly 6 or 8

    130mm +/- 6deg

    Quote Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
    Side view short vid of a rev-out on rollers would be best as far as giving people a fair look at your position.
    Unfortunately I'm living between 2 homes at the moment and my rollers and track bike are not together. If i get the opportunity I will. Thanks for the advice.
    Last edited by Banchad; 04-27-15 at 12:13 AM.

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    Senior Member catonec's Avatar
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    frames too small for you
    2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
    1997 Trek ZX6000, 6061w/manitou spyder, xt/xtr, time atac

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    Quote Originally Posted by catonec View Post
    frames too small for you
    Its the biggest frame size they make =/

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    Senior Member catonec's Avatar
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    you look all cramped up.
    2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
    1997 Trek ZX6000, 6061w/manitou spyder, xt/xtr, time atac

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    Quote Originally Posted by catonec View Post
    you look all cramped up.
    Probably going to happen on almost any bike I get unfortunately. I'm about 6'1. When I had a bike fit for another bike I was told I had a longer torso than proportional as well.

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    Senior Member wens's Avatar
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    I think the frame size looks OK, knee looks like it would be just about over the pedal spindle if you had cranks level, and arms are extending about 90 degrees relative to the torso.

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    If you post new photos I suggest you wear cycling kit and clip-in your cycling shoes. Also position your bike and camera in the same position for each photo and position the camera about level with the TT (use a cameratripod would be good).

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    Senior Member Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by catonec View Post
    frames too small for you
    Quote Originally Posted by Banchad View Post
    Its the biggest frame size they make =/
    Than get a frame made by someone else, if you think it feels too small.


    The 130mm stem, turned upwards, looks to me like a decent fit, though.

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    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by catonec View Post
    frames too small for you
    +1

    Quote Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier View Post
    Than get a frame made by someone else, if you think it feels too small.
    +1

    There aren't very many off-the-rack frames that come in a true 60+ cm TT. The Hoy track bike does. But, it's only available as a complete bike. But the price is unbeatable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    There aren't very many off-the-rack frames that come in a true 60+ cm TT. The Hoy track bike does. But, it's only available as a complete bike. But the price is unbeatable.
    You reckon I need a proper 60cm tt for a proper fit then ?

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    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banchad View Post
    You reckon I need a proper 60cm tt for a proper fit then ?
    I think spending a few bucks at a bike fitter will give you piece of mind with a new frame purchase.

    You can go to any proper bike shop and say that you'd like to buy a new frame but you want to see what its geometry feels like before purchase. They will then put the geometry numbers into their fit bike and let you sit on it. This *should* be cheaper than a standard bike fit being that it's a much shorter process (a few minutes) as opposed to a full-on bike fit which can take 1-2 hours.

    This is the opposite of a bike fit, where they manipulate the fit bike and come up with an optimal position then find frames that have those dimensions. I'd be reluctant to do that unless the bike fitter were an actual trackie. Every bike fitter will say, "SURE we can fit you for a track bike, no problem..." because many assume that a track bike is just a road bike without a cassette.

    I'm 6'1" and kinda long in the torso. I used to ride the 58cm Planet X and now I'm on a 61cm custom steel frame. Custom steel because I wanted to give a 61cm TT a try and there were 0 available off-the-rack in any material with a proper track geometry. There were a few street bikes with a TT that long, but they have slack head tube angles and low bottom brackets.

    I set the geometry myself (every measurement ) Compare this geometry chart to that of your Planet X. Take particular note of the "Reach" value. This is how far the steerer tube is away from the bottom bracket. This is what Top Tube Length attempts to measure, but can be affected by Seat Tube Angle. Using Reach is a better way because it (unlike Top Tube Length) is not affected by Seat Tube Angle.

    My frame has 3cm more reach than the Planet X. That's significant. That's 1 or 1.5 sizes up, without getting the associated taller head tube. So essentially, my bike is stretched horizontally, not both horizontally and vertically was would be expected with a larger bike.

    My bike (this makes the head tube look longer because it is measuring with headset as well:


    My bike (measuring without headset. sorry for the road accessories, that's part of the CAD software ):


    Planet X Track:
    Last edited by carleton; 04-27-15 at 10:39 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    I'm on a 61cm custom steel frame.
    Do you mind me asking how much that cost?

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    Senior Member wens's Avatar
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    Are you a sprinter or enduro type? If you're an enduro you tend to be a lot closer to a road bike without a cassette. Sprinters end up with way more weight on their hands than you'd want for forty or sixty minutes at a time, so they can essentially rotate further forward around the bb.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wens View Post
    Are you a sprinter or enduro type? If you're an enduro you tend to be a lot closer to a road bike without a cassette. Sprinters end up with way more weight on their hands than you'd want for forty or sixty minutes at a time, so they can essentially rotate further forward around the bb.
    Definitely sprinter. Too lazy and fond of food for the endurance training.

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    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banchad View Post
    Do you mind me asking how much that cost?
    His prices are here: The Rage Machine | Snyder Cycles - Handmade Bicycles

    They start at $900USD. If you want fancy bits like King headset or Thomson seatpost, then you'll have to add money accordingly. I chose the Alpina F04 fork because it is a great fork and not nearly as expensive as the Enve.

    If you decide to use Snyder, make sure that you go over the geometry with him. He has a tendency to use really long head tubes and a lower bottom bracket otherwise
    Last edited by carleton; 04-27-15 at 01:15 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    His prices are here: The Rage Machine | Snyder Cycles - Handmade Bicycles

    They start at $900USD. If you want fancy bits like King headset or Thomson seatpost, then you'll have to add money accordingly. I chose the Alpina F04 fork because it is a great fork and not nearly as expensive as the Enve.

    If you decide to use Snyder, make sure that you go over the geometry with him. He has a tendency to use really long head tubes and a lower bottom bracket otherwise
    Thanks for the link dude. Don't think I'll be able to use him though as I'm in the UK and I'd get clobbered by import and vat duties and I simply can't afford that at the moment or in the foreseeable future =( There's some sexy beasts of bikes there. I'm very jealous.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Banchad View Post
    ....... I'm in the UK and I'd get clobbered by import and vat duties .............
    Have you looked at Dolan and Mercian. They both make large track frames.

    Do you live anywhere near the York velodrome? I plan to visit it in two weeks when I'm in the area.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 700wheel View Post
    Have you looked at Dolan and Mercian. They both make large track frames.

    Do you live anywhere near the York velodrome? I plan to visit it in two weeks when I'm in the area.
    Going off geo the TC1 has the same issues as the PX I have (unless I'm reading it wrong) and the alternative DF4 is out of my price range. I don't want a precursa. I live in Swindon at the moment. When I go back to Uni my home track will be Huyton Velodrome in Liverpool.

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    Senior Member taras0000's Avatar
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    It looks like you can move back on your seat, or move your seat back. Your knee looks to me well in front of your pedal spindle. This would gain you some torso length. Best to post pics with your cycling kit as mentioned above. Maybe same pics with one or two more with your seat moved back I would say. I would do it with the stem flipped on it's positive rise first.
    Taras - :noun. 1. Typically an overweight has-been that can sometimes be seen pootling around a velodrome on an old Look KG 233.

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    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    BTW, I want to let you know that your bike is just fine for training and racing. I raced for years on 57/58cm top tubes before getting a 61. Don't get it in your head that your bike is rubbish and you *need* a bigger one now.

    Think of it this way: When it comes time to get a new frame, choose a larger size. But this one is fine for now.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    BTW, I want to let you know that your bike is just fine for training and racing. I raced for years on 57/58cm top tubes before getting a 61. Don't get it in your head that your bike is rubbish and you *need* a bigger one now.

    Think of it this way: When it comes time to get a new frame, choose a larger size. But this one is fine for now.
    Don't worry about that. Can't afford a new frame right now anyway. I'm relatively happy with it as it is at the moment(though give me another 6 months and I might need a stiffer frame) and the point of the thread was to see if there was anything glaringly obvious that someone might be able to see. Thanks for the advice!

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    Best set up for checking bike fit is on a wind trainer I reckon, and if you can be putting 70-80% effort onto the pedals, that's really helpful. We can all sit pretty on a bike fairly easily, and poodle along turning the cranks over, but when you start exerting yourself, that's really useful in bike fit terms, especially for power events.
    We can see your hands have moved a bit, and your back angle has changed, but the best way to fit as far as I'm concerned, is to get the back half of the bike fitted, (seat height, saddle setback, cleat position) then get the bars where they need to be for whatever you're doing after that. You can dump your stem and get a nice, long flat back, but that might close your hip angle too much to get the most power out, and you won't really know what that's going to do till you get your kit on and do some work on the bike.
    From the pics it's impossible to know if the frame's too big or small for you I reckon, so don't get too concerned about that till you've worked on your fit a bit more. I'm 5"11 and a half and ride a 55cm road bike and 57cm track bike, so you're probably in the ballpark for that bike if that's any indication.
    PS I have no idea how Carleton is around an inch taller than me and rides with like, at least 4cm more reach than I do, and a 2cm longer stem than me.
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