Straps for SPD-SL Pedals
#1
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Straps for SPD-SL Pedals
After reading several posts by the good by members about adding toe straps to their clipless pedals, I decided I would experiment with an pair of Dura-Ace pedals. As far as parts are concerned, I ordered a pair of double toeclips (Origin8) and had some funky toestraps that i found on ebay last year. My original plan was to use the Shimano reflector bracket and bolt the toe clip to the pedal, but I couldn't get the alignment how I wanted, so I resorted to zip ties, which looks to work. Is this a bit too much vs. just using zip ties? Probably, but I think there are two advantages: 1) You can use two straps per pedal and 2) By putting the strap through a slot, the position of the buckle can be adjusted easily.
Step 1 Assemble the parts
Step 2 Hacksaw off what you don't need
Step 3 Assemble
Step 4 Try a single strap
Step 5 Try a double strap
I haven't tried these on my bike yet, but I don't think I'm strong enough to really test this out... yet.
Step 1 Assemble the parts
Step 2 Hacksaw off what you don't need
Step 3 Assemble
Step 4 Try a single strap
Step 5 Try a double strap
I haven't tried these on my bike yet, but I don't think I'm strong enough to really test this out... yet.
#3
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I was on mobile before and couldn't see the detailed pics. I can not.
A few things:
This is a problem:
1: The tabs will start to bend upwards after the first time you cinch them down tightly. Then your straps will start to scrunch up where they go into the eyelets.
2: The strap is not against the pedal. The force is used to pull the cage against itself. Not ideal. Not worth it.
Straps:
These straps appear to not have a laminated center. It appears to be a solid strip of leather (like a belt). And as you know, leather belts stretch and thin as they do so. Toshi and Kashimax straps are two thin strips of (suede-ish) leather sandwiched around a strip of laminate. This serves 2 purposes. The leather allows the teeth of the clamp to get a firm bite and not let go under force. The laminate keeps the leather from stretching under force.
With the straps you have above, the "snakeskin" will probably allow the leather to slip through the clamp. And the non-laminate center will certainly allow the straps to stretch. The combination will leave you frustrated I've seen it happen.
Further:
1 strap is enough. Make sure it's on the rear (behind the pedal spindle, not in front), though.
You may be able to use these cages if you shift them forward on the pedal such that one strap is on either side of the spindle.
A few things:
This is a problem:
1: The tabs will start to bend upwards after the first time you cinch them down tightly. Then your straps will start to scrunch up where they go into the eyelets.
2: The strap is not against the pedal. The force is used to pull the cage against itself. Not ideal. Not worth it.
Straps:
These straps appear to not have a laminated center. It appears to be a solid strip of leather (like a belt). And as you know, leather belts stretch and thin as they do so. Toshi and Kashimax straps are two thin strips of (suede-ish) leather sandwiched around a strip of laminate. This serves 2 purposes. The leather allows the teeth of the clamp to get a firm bite and not let go under force. The laminate keeps the leather from stretching under force.
With the straps you have above, the "snakeskin" will probably allow the leather to slip through the clamp. And the non-laminate center will certainly allow the straps to stretch. The combination will leave you frustrated I've seen it happen.
Further:
1 strap is enough. Make sure it's on the rear (behind the pedal spindle, not in front), though.
You may be able to use these cages if you shift them forward on the pedal such that one strap is on either side of the spindle.
Last edited by carleton; 02-10-16 at 10:49 PM.
#4
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To preface the points below, the way LOOK-style pedals keep the cleat from releasing during a normal pedal upstroke is with the spring-loaded clamp on the back.
The user puts the nose of the cleat into the rigid nose of the pedal and the clamp attaches to the lip on the back of the cleat when the rider puts their weight down and momentarily wedges the clamp open. If that lip is worn, the jaw is worn, or the spring tension is too light for the rider, then the pedal is subject to release the cleat during a strong upstroke.
Twisting your foot dislodges the clamp from the ledge of the cleat thus releasing the back of the cleat allowing the foot to easily back out of the front of the pedal.
OK.
There are 3 methods of retention when it comes to pedal straps on SPD-SL and LOOK style pedals:
1) Keep the foot on the pedal. Meaning strap the foot to the pedal such that it won't lift up and attempt to open the clamp and release the cleat. The clamp never feels any pressure from the cleat. The spring tension on the pedal could be very light or the cleat is weak but if the strap is taught, then the foot cannot come off the pedal.
Giddeon Massie:
Up up up:
(this is the technique I use)
2) Use the strap against the shoe to keep the clamp from being allowed to open up. Basically assisting the spring tension built into the clamp. The clamp feels the pressure, but the combined force of the spring and the taught strap won't allow it to open.
Chris Hoy:
3: DO NOT ALLOW THE CLAMP TO OPEN AT ALL COSTS. Screw the damn clamp shut
Marion Clignet (2004)
The user puts the nose of the cleat into the rigid nose of the pedal and the clamp attaches to the lip on the back of the cleat when the rider puts their weight down and momentarily wedges the clamp open. If that lip is worn, the jaw is worn, or the spring tension is too light for the rider, then the pedal is subject to release the cleat during a strong upstroke.
Twisting your foot dislodges the clamp from the ledge of the cleat thus releasing the back of the cleat allowing the foot to easily back out of the front of the pedal.
OK.
There are 3 methods of retention when it comes to pedal straps on SPD-SL and LOOK style pedals:
1) Keep the foot on the pedal. Meaning strap the foot to the pedal such that it won't lift up and attempt to open the clamp and release the cleat. The clamp never feels any pressure from the cleat. The spring tension on the pedal could be very light or the cleat is weak but if the strap is taught, then the foot cannot come off the pedal.
Giddeon Massie:
Up up up:
(this is the technique I use)
2) Use the strap against the shoe to keep the clamp from being allowed to open up. Basically assisting the spring tension built into the clamp. The clamp feels the pressure, but the combined force of the spring and the taught strap won't allow it to open.
Chris Hoy:
3: DO NOT ALLOW THE CLAMP TO OPEN AT ALL COSTS. Screw the damn clamp shut
Marion Clignet (2004)
Last edited by carleton; 02-10-16 at 10:46 PM.
#5
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That said, and easy mod is to cut off the back set of loops just like I did with the front of the toe clip. After that, the whole assembly could be shortened to just the first set of loops and the cross member and a single set of zip ties.
#6
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@carleton,
Okay you're one tough customer, but since this is only thought exercise for now (never used straps with clipless pedals), I'll give another go with stronger toe straps and a more forward position on the pedal, which to me is a less desirable position on the foot.
P.S. The front zip ties would be optional with this setup.
Okay you're one tough customer, but since this is only thought exercise for now (never used straps with clipless pedals), I'll give another go with stronger toe straps and a more forward position on the pedal, which to me is a less desirable position on the foot.
P.S. The front zip ties would be optional with this setup.
Last edited by dunderhi; 02-10-16 at 11:23 PM. Reason: P.S.
#7
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@carleton,
Okay you're one tough customer, but since this is only thought exercise for now (never used straps with clipless pedals), I'll give another go with stronger toe straps and a more forward position on the pedal, which to me is a less desirable position on the foot.
P.S. The front zip ties would be optional with this setup.
Okay you're one tough customer, but since this is only thought exercise for now (never used straps with clipless pedals), I'll give another go with stronger toe straps and a more forward position on the pedal, which to me is a less desirable position on the foot.
P.S. The front zip ties would be optional with this setup.
This would also work well, just lop off the rear eyelets:
If 1 strap is enough for Hoy and others, it's enough for us
#9
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Anyway, it was only an idea that I had, so I decided to do a proof of concept and share with anyone interested. I just think it's odd people that people are seeking old style pedals just because they know of an existing a tow strap solution.
Last edited by dunderhi; 02-11-16 at 07:35 PM.
#11
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#12
Lapped 3x
Here's a slick solution for anyone using Speedplay Zero's on the track and want straps
the pink hornet: Using The Strap-On In Public
And some others
https://www.flickr.com/photos/903013...57628571061147
the pink hornet: Using The Strap-On In Public
And some others
https://www.flickr.com/photos/903013...57628571061147
#15
Lapped 3x
#16
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