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Track Cycling: Velodrome Racing and Training Area Looking to enter into the realm of track racing? Want to share your experiences and tactics for riding on a velodrome? The Track Cycling forums is for you! Come in and discuss training/racing, equipment, and current track cycling events.

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Old 02-19-06, 09:36 AM   #1
dutret
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What do I need?

What collection of cogs/chainrings do you recomend for a beginning track racer?
How much can I borrow?
Will it be easier to borrow 1/8 or 3/32?
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Old 02-19-06, 12:28 PM   #2
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Cogs: 15,16, maybe 14
Chainrings: 47-51

bare minimum: 49x15 or 50x15, then get another smaller chainring for warmups (47 or 48).

Get a 1/8" chain and then you can use 3/32" or 1/8" parts when necessary. Check ebay for deals, and check out fixedgearfever.com for more track information.
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Old 02-19-06, 12:45 PM   #3
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Cogs: 15,16, maybe 14 <-- I say... 14 - 15 -16-17-18, why 18? simply he is a newbie, besides, we dont know how old is he.. maybe he has 16 y/o ... and use 47/50 x 15 snt the ideal for a kid u know....

get chainrings from 47 thru 53, get a 49,50,51 are really hard to find used (im selling a 49 campy (saaverdra 144 bcd) at ebay by the way).

well usualy cogs are 1/8 so ull be using a 1/8 chain anyways... about the chainrings... no matter 1/8 or 3/4 both will work with a 1/8 chain...

Good luck
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Old 02-19-06, 06:25 PM   #4
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I am 25. I currently have a 16t cog. so bare minimum f I was going to buy one cog and two rings I could probably get by with that, a 15t, 47t and 50t at least for the first few weeks of the season until I can afford more?
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Old 02-19-06, 08:38 PM   #5
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50x15 its iideal... 48 maybe.... 16 yes... thats all u need for going to a track dude...not street, track
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Old 02-19-06, 09:40 PM   #6
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How much does going up or down a tooth on the chainring or cog change the chain length? Would it be to the point where after switching out from like a 16 to 15 that I'd have to take out a link or get a half link just to keep the axle centered in the dropouts?
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Old 02-19-06, 10:24 PM   #7
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I was actually about to comment that dutret (or anyone else) should check that the chain is the right length for the range of gears you get. It depends on your dropout length, among other things. If you end up with too large a range, the easiest thing to do is have a second chain (with some kind of quick link for both) for when you get out of range. You can get a decent chain for ~$15-

You'll be fine with a 15, a 47, and a 50. I mostly keep the 15 on the back and switch between 48 and 50 or 51 in front depending on what I'm doing.
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Old 02-19-06, 10:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by votedean
How much does going up or down a tooth on the chainring or cog change the chain length? Would it be to the point where after switching out from like a 16 to 15 that I'd have to take out a link or get a half link just to keep the axle centered in the dropouts?
You should be able to have about a 2-tooth difference in your dropouts. 1-tooth won't make much of a difference in the wheelbase, if you're moving from a warm-up gear to race gear.
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Old 02-20-06, 08:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by votedean
How much does going up or down a tooth on the chainring or cog change the chain length? Would it be to the point where after switching out from like a 16 to 15 that I'd have to take out a link or get a half link just to keep the axle centered in the dropouts?
Adding one tooth to either sprocket or chainring moves the chain forward by 1/8" in the dropouts. Most real track dropouts I've seen have at least an inch of capacity, giving you a possible 6-8 tooth range with the same chain. Your wheelbase will change slightly as you change gears, but I'd be surprised if you noticed this or it was a problem.

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