Speedplay feedback request
 

Is anyone using Speedplay with this setup? I plan to use this setup in the future unless I hear that it may be inadequate. I plan to do all types of events but mostly endurance events in the Masters Cats. I weigh only 125 lbs. and don't have massive strength.

I would like to use at least 5 degrees of free rotation. Any comments regarding security of fixed versus float?

Also, might it be necessary to put a toeclip on this setup. I think I can figure out how to do that without too much difficulty. If I put a toeclip on the pedal I would use both the front screw and the back screw to keep the toe clip aligned. I would think that without a clip, the strap might not stay in the preferred position on the top of the shoe. I think it may not feel as secure as it should without a toe clip. Comments? Has anyone used this pedal with a toe clip?

I have read other posts regarding speedplay and I do understand that the pedal axle becomes gouged. I think I'm willing to live with the gouging and replace the axles or pedals from time to time if the pros outweigh the cons for me.

I'm mostly interested in knowing if other speedplay users feel secure with this setup and whether the toeclip is necessary or not.

I see that the X series is not self centering. I want that. Can anyone tell me if the Zero series is self centering or not?

Can anyone who is using or has used Speedplay with straps, this tell me the pros and cons of this setup?

I use a similar setup with SPD-R's but tried this version out on Speedplays a while back, and I've set it up for a couple local riders. If you get a decent (i.e., laminated) strap, it has enough stiffness to stay in place fine, plus you just hold the rail while you pull it up and tighten the straps anyway (I wouldn't recommend such a setup -- on Speedplays or SPD-Rs -- for road use).

I don't feel it works as well as the SPD-R, mostly because the amount you need to move your foot to dislocate from the pedal is quite small on the Speedplays. With the strap clinched down tight, it keeps a twisting release from becoming catastrophic, but if you really tilt your foot hard, you can end up with your foot half-way held by the toe strap but disengaged from the pedal, and at that point the strap tension can keep you from reengaging easily (at least while you're underway). The SPD-R has such a larger platform, plus even if you disengage at the rear in a twist you still usually keep the front engaged. It takes a whopping action to pull your foot all the way out of a strapped-in SPD-R to the point where you don't just automatically reengage again. Unless you're enamoured of Speedplays on the track, I'd think about even doing a Look or Time -- you can attach straps to just about anything with a little ingenuity.

One other issue with Speedplays is that there really isn't any release tension adjustment, akin to what the SPD-R's have in spades. Part of why SPD-R setups with straps became popular is because you can make the release tension in the pedal so high to begin with. You say you don't put a lot of torque onto your pedals, so I'm not sure why you really need to use straps to begin with. I wouldn't recommend the track Speedplays particularly, since all they do is put a sharper angle on the edge of the engagement slot at the release point -- it means that they break free much more unpredictably than with regular Speedplays, which come free with the same force but give you a tiny bit more warning. I'm not trying to recommend one brand of pedal over another, but I do think that Speedplays are a bit overrated for the track. I didn't see a single pair at the World Cup event in LA a couple months ago, and most riders have liberty to pick pedals that work for them.

The reasons I want to use speedplay pedals are:

1) I think that I will be more comfortable with the free float on speedplay as compared to float with friction on SPD-R
2) Stack height seems to be lowest on speedplay with a four hole pattern. It looks like I will have to use a Time compatible shoe in order to use the 4 hole pattern. With a 3 hole pattern, the SPD-R is only .5 millimeter taller
3) maintenance looks very easy on speedplay
4) It looks like a good system for the road and I want to be able to use the same shoes for road and track

If the pedal axles do become gouged to the point of detriment to safety, then maintenance won't be an issue. I'll have to replace the pedals.

I currently use Shimano PD-M505 on my Bianchi Pista, setup as a track bike (no brake). I have the spring tension cranked all the way to the maximum. I don't mind the effort required to get into the pedal but getting out of the pedal isn't always easy. I'm currently using touring shoes. It should be easier to torque the shoe out of the pedal with a stiff soled racing shoe. I do all of my riding on the road right now but next year I will be in NYC at Kissena and T- Town so I am planning my equipment at this time.

The pic that you posted up top is my set up. The reasons that I went and did that were basically because I don't trust just having velcro straps to keep me fixed to the pedal, and I loved the locked in feeling that rat trap pedals give you when you're strapped down. It's a sprinter thing. If you're not that heavy/strong, I wouldn't worry about attaching a strap to any pedal. The regular speedplay X series have great retention, and up to 20 degrees of float. I found that my knees really liked the free float, and with that much float, I've never had an accidental release. Your foot just has way to far to move to hit that point unintentionally. That's just my experience though. I have SPD-R's on my road bike and they work really well for me too, but I had the speedplay X's for the longest time prior to them. I would go with the speedplay system over the spd-r just because of personal preference, but they two are really close. I basically went with the speedplays because I had them first.

The track version of the speedplays are just teh Zero pedal with a stiffer release spring in the cleat body. It's cross section is a lot wider than the road going version. 11.4 is right in that the release is more abrupt, but only slightly more. You need a lot higher force to release from the trackies than the roadies. The shimano's are harder to get out of, but like I mentioned earlier, no accidental releases with either system.

So, if it's a locked in feeling that you value, go with the shimano. If it's free float that you value go with the speedplay. Either system, the X or the Zero is good for someone your size, with the X's being slightly better. Neither brand will accidentally release you, and you won't need a toe clip with either pedal if you use a decent laminated strap.

Iv'e seen lots of riders using them on the track, but most of them arent racers. Espessialy Sprinters. The 3 sprinters Ive seen on them all run a think leather strap around them. A few of the endurace guys are running them sans problems though.

The biggest problem with all speedplays is the groooving of the axle that occurs from the shoe half of the mechanism. I dont plan to be around to see somone snap an axle.

I toyed with the idea since Dura Ace SPD-R is getting harder to come by now, but instead went down the old school road with a pair of DA7400s

I've used the Zero Track pedals for about 3-4 seasons. The axles do not show any signs of a "groove" or other strange wear. For team sprint and match sprints I use regular pedals and double keirin straps (I'm a US Masters Nat's champion), but for all other events the Zeros are fine. I use them on the road too and have never had a release in well over 120 criteriums with them. I have them set for almost zero float. Other people use them with more float to reduce the chance of inadvertant release.

Can you expound a little bit on why the X series is slightly better? You've got my curiosity up on this one.


You guys are giving me great responses, extremely helpful.



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Hey TJ, I'm about your size and I use regular (not the "Track" model) Zeros.

This is my second season on them, and I have no complaints other than it took a bit of practice to get both feet clipped in while at the rail.

Well, they are both really good pedals for you. The reason I would say that the X's are better for you are that they offer more float (up to 20 degrees), and I've also noticed with both sets of my Zero's and X's that the X's are the freeier floating of the two models. My guess is that it has to do with two things: the spring mechanism that holds you in, and the composite pedal body. With the wider range of float, you'll be less likely to relaease, because you have more wiggle room (literally) for your foot. You almost have to have your foot out at a 45 degree angle to unclip from them. Second, if you are concerned about your knees, the freeier moving float will help too. Like I mentioned earlier, I have never inadvertently released from either model. The X's are also the lighter of the two.

If you want a wider range of free float, go with the X's. If you like to dial in your float amount and range, go with the Zeroes. After those two things, they are essentially the same pedal. You can't go wrong with either of them.