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Old 07-13-07, 09:48 AM   #1
Hussy
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steering conversions

hi folks, wanted to ask.can you convert a threadless headset to a threaded set to install NJS drop bar stem and road bars. I cant figure how to, or is it simply.. cut back the fork stem and fit a new head set. Any advice would be cool and mucho appreciated. I did check Sheldons site but cant find the info. XXXXXXXXXXXxx
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Old 07-13-07, 10:09 AM   #2
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You can't really convert a threadless headset to a threaded headset although there may be some adapter so you can use a quill stem with a threadless (although I really doubt it, I don't see how it could work logistically).

That said, why do you want to use a quill stem? You can find threaded stems with a negative rise.
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Old 07-14-07, 05:26 AM   #3
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thanks yoshi, what does that mean with a negative rise?? But I agree, I don't think the conversion is possible either. Thanks for your advice. Stephen
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Old 07-14-07, 03:02 PM   #4
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It is possible. Threading the fork is the problem.

Unless you are on your way to japan to become a professional keirin racer just use a threadless stem.
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Old 07-16-07, 04:04 AM   #5
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You need to get the fork converted if you want a threaded set-up.

Basically it involves cutting the fork steerer off, inserting a plug and then welding a threadable-thickness steerer on top. Bernie Mikkelsen (reknowned California framebuilder) has this pretty much down and I'm sure there are plenty of other framebuilders who could do this for you.

Thats the only way. If you really want some drop on a threadless set-up look at Deda Pista stems or the CKT track stem.

[Just noticed you're in London so you could try Witcomb Cycles or Chas Roberts to see if they would do this for you]
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Old 07-16-07, 06:33 AM   #6
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See, now that there is a possibility to convert to forks to threaded, the challenge seems tantalizing. BUT! I think you are right, unless ya gonna be a keirin racer then wise-up and stick to the original threadless forks with the unattractive A-head stem etc.. so instead maybe I'll come across a new frame in a year or so and start a new build. My existing frame is my pride & joy piece of crap so not worth investing. Thanks for all the advice. One thing that has always confused me and I have until finding this forum been too embarrased to ask. CAN ANYONE TELL ME THE MAIN DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CLINCHER AND TUBULAR?? I have searched to get a clear answer but I think I am missing the point. Is it roll resistance?? What is the best for the streets.
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Old 07-16-07, 08:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hussy
CAN ANYONE TELL ME THE MAIN DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CLINCHER AND TUBULAR??
Main difference between tubular & clincher? Hard to say as theres quite a few differences.

Basically tubulars are lighter and safer on steep banking as they're less likely to roll off the rim when they flat. As tubulars are glued on to the rim, they can be run at much higher pressures (not going to blow off the rim like a clincher) and they tend to have a better 'feel' over clinchers. Tubular rims are also lighter in general.

Big downside for tubs is that they're a bugger to repair when you get a flat (have to cut open the tire casing, fix the tube, sew-the tire back up and remount). It takes some skill to mount a tubular tire properly although its easier now there is glue tape.

Clinchers are the best bet for urban riding precisely cause you can replace the tube or fix the puncture with ease.

With tubs, you have to ride with spare pre-glued tires and hope that you don't get more flats than you have tires to hand. You can't really repair a tub at the side of the road.

Known some folks to ride all the time on tubs without problems, so your mileage may vary. But IMHO you have to be pretty knowledgable to get away with tubs on the street.
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Old 07-17-07, 08:07 AM   #8
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If you want a rant filled discussion of Tubs vs Clinchers, look at this Tubulars Are Way Doper Than Clinchers!
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