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  1. #1
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    Help me build my Felt TK2

    I just bought a Felt TK2 frame and fork, and plan to build it over the next few weeks. Iím a roadie, and itís my first track bike. I will be using it for training, and the occasional trips to the Frisco Superdrome and the Alkek in Houston. What suggestions do you have for components?

  2. #2
    Mitcholo CrimsonKarter21's Avatar
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    I'll be the only one here to reply I guess.

    If I were you, I'd go with Dura-Ace 7700 hubs, the high flanges are the easiest to get and are cheaper than the small flange usually. They've got AWESOME bearings and are super-smooth. Either get them in 28 hole or 32. 28 spokes should be fine unless you're heavier or more powerful and think you need the extra spokes. Lace them to the tubular Velocity Pro Elite tubular rim, it's a little hefty, but is 30mm deep. Whatever spokes you use should be fine.
    Also, use high-quality cogs, like Dura-Ace, Phil Wood, or EAI, they're all pretty expensive, but worth it.
    I use a Dura-Ace 7700 Octalink crank, but a Sugino 75 is the norm for track bikes, the FSA stuff, no matter how enticing it is, isn't too amazing, and the regular Miche Primato crank has a wierd BCD. Look for 144BCD on the track cranks because it makes finding rings easier. Miche also just started making a 144 crank that's supposed to be pretty good.
    An Izumi chain is what I use, along with Dura-Ace rings, which are amzing, I can cut through my other rings with them, and the D-A's won't even take a scratch.

    For the cockpit, if you're using a 1 1/8 threadless steerer, either get the Deda Pista stem/bars which are a 31.75 clamping diameter, they're really stiff. Or use the Nitto CrMo threadless stem and their CrMo track bars, which are insanely stiff and won't break no matter what. Pro's use both combo's. If you're threaded, use a Nitto stem and bars.
    And for the saddle, use something classic and kind of clunky.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Dubbayoo's Avatar
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    Cane Creek Volos Track Wheels

    They come in clincher and tubs. 21mm deep, 24f/28r. You can find the tubs lightly used because they come on new bikes that many people turn into road fixers. Those guys swap them out for clinchers.

    Lots of crank choices; just get one that you can easily find rings for. If you're going to train on it just use an old road bar/stem if you have one. I The Deda is good but you don't need it until you start racing hard.

    Don't spend a lot for a first bike. You can always upgrade later.

  4. #4
    Mitcholo CrimsonKarter21's Avatar
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    Yeah, the Volos are a good option, too. If you want to get accustomed to tubulars or just want some training wheels, there are some Mavic Reflex/Formula hub wheels out there for $150.

  5. #5
    Senior Member CafeRacer's Avatar
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    You guys all missed the point on that one.... IF your not going to race alot or at a high level yet . You can get away with cheap wheels. Alot of shops now have access to pre built flip flop track wheels built with clinchers on formula hubs. They work great. You could get a pair of wheels for the same price as a pair of Dura-Ace 7710 hubs. (Yes I know the 7710's are cheap)

    Cranks: Make sure you buy a real track crank. If you use a road crank it makes finding chainrings a pain in the ass to make the roll outs you want. The FSA one is pretty cheap and pretty popular with mass start guys. If you want to spend a little more look at the Sugino 75's World Records are held on those crank arms. Chain rings arent somthing you need to spend a crap load on either. FSA ones do the job just fine, buy a 47,48,49 to start. Cogs are an investment. If you buy cheap ass ones they wear out. Shimano ones have a great price and last forever. Get a 14,15,16.


    The chain is the easiest bit. A mid level BMX chain will last you forever.

    For bars and saddle get what you ride on the road. At the same time set up the fit of the bike just like your road bike.

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