You didn't say whether the hubs were double-sided or single-fixed. If double-sided, you don't want to do any kind of asymmetrical lacing pattern on the rear because when you flip the wheel around, you'll be working around a compromised lacing pattern. Plus, unlike on road hubs, there isn't a lot of dish even on single-sided track hubs, so different lacings don't make too much sense.
You can only lace Araya 16B's up so tight before they start having problems, so there's not much point in going with 1x or 2x lacings on these hubs. On the other end, lacing 4X is nice and durable but actually makes the wheels a bit less stiff laterally so if you're doing sprints and that kind of thing, you will feel the rear wheel flex more. By simple attrition, we're left with 3X both sides, at least on the rear.
On the front, I've ridden plenty of radial-laced wheels. I can't say there's any viable data supporting the argument that radial lacing is more aerodynamic, but frankly it's about whatever you want to do on the front -- whatever floats your boat. NJS standards are 3X or 4X front, and 4X rear, but those are very dated standards and better wheels can be built these days. Realistically, for track racing here in the US, don't get waylaid by Japanese standards set in the '70s. I'd suggest a simple 3X front, but I wouldn't have problems riding 2X, 1X, or radial. If you do build them radial, put the spoke heads on the inside of the flange, just to get an extra few millimeters of effective spacing between spokes and each side. That just gives you a slightly stiffer wheel. While the subject is somewhat polemic, I'd suggest doing 2X or 3X and then tie-and-soldering the outermost crosses. Nothing much is going to change the rotational rigidity of the wheel, but you can do plenty to stiffen the wheel laterally -- which is important on the track.
Hope that works for starters.