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  1. #1
    powered by Racer Ex gsteinb's Avatar
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    track position VS. road position

    How does the position on your track bike differ from your road position?
    fore-aft
    height (considering different length cranks)
    drop (considering deeper bars)

  2. #2
    Senior Member melville's Avatar
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    Pretty much the same, when in the drops. Saddle height the same--on the road bike my legs come up 10mm higher.

    In general use, of course, I spend more time on the tops and the hoods on the road bike. When the hammer's down, though, it's all the same.

  3. #3
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    My seat to BB relationship is the same with the seat 2.5mm higher to account for the shorter crank on the track bike. (170 vs 172.5)

    Bars are slightly lower in the drops, but the reach is about the same.

    If you have multiple bikes, the saddle to BB fit should really be as close as possible over all your bikes. Being off can cause odd, unexplainable aches and pains. I've found you can move handlebars around to your liking depending on each bikes purpose without any harm.

  4. #4
    Senior Member bitingduck's Avatar
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    Mine are pretty close to the same, measured from pedal spindle to saddle top, and from the end of the hooks to the saddle, but I do mostly mass start stuff. If you're doing mostly TT or sprints on the track you might tweak the position more.
    Track - the other off-road
    http://www.lavelodrome.org

  5. #5
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    The traditional advice was to imagine the effect of fitting a smaller front wheel: seat height is the same in relationship to the bottom bracket but the saddle is further forward, and distance to handlebars is the same but the bars are lower in relation to saddle height. The shorter the event, the "smaller the front wheel".

    The six day rider and, to a slightly lesser extent, the points and madison rider used a position either identical to or very close to the road position.

    And these days I don't know what the hell is going on, so there you go.

  6. #6
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    Oh, and crank length is generally shorter and also depends upon the specialty and the track. Indoor tracks practically demand 165s or 167.5s at the most, pursuiters excepted. Outdoor tracks generally give more leeway and you'll see points and omnium riders drifting toward 170s. If there is a "standard" it is 165, which works for just about everything but tall roadies attempting hour records.
    Last edited by Six jours; 03-13-09 at 05:38 PM.

  7. #7
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    pretty much sums it up above with the smaller front wheel thing.

    or rolling it all forward a little. Shorter cranks so the saddle up a bit to compensate.

    best thing is to try to match your road bike, eventually your road bike will begin to be more like your track bike set-up. The reach and distance vertically to the drops is almost the same on my track bike and road bike, but it's rolled/rotated forward, saddle higher and more forward and bars lower.

    I ride sprints/team sprint and kilo the most so I am using a deep bar (easton carbon track bar with trad bends). Mt track frame has a 15cm head tube and my road bike 20cm I think, so the track bike with sprint bars has 2 spacers and the stem angled upwards, with aero bars I use no spacers and a flatter stem. I'm nearly 2m tall so I ride a big bike around 62cm , not a weird bike on the road with a super long headtube.

    I actually ride 170mm cranks too, as I ride 180mm on the road, so the more normal thing would be 172.5 on the road and 165 on the track, the top pursuiters can ride 180mm cranks on the track and huge gears sometimes.

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