dolan pre cursa
05-07-09, 03:57 PM
#2
Newbie
Join Date: May 2009
Location: LBC
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Bikes: Dolan Pre Cursa 52cm
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I have one and I love it. Watch out for the toe overlap though. I actually replaced the track fork (30mm of rake) with the road for (43mm of rake) and I love it. Quick acceleration and buttery as can be for a true track bike. Actually like it better than my old Surly.
05-11-09, 05:34 PM
#3
Senior Member
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Location: Vancouver
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I posted this in the SS/FG forum, but I'll ask it here as well:
I've seen people recommend the Pre Cursa as a beginner track bike, but the geo is the same as IROs which are usually not recommended due to their "slack" geo.
Here's the dimensions from Probikekit for the Dolan 50cm:
Seat Tube: 50cm
Top tube: 525mm
Head tube angle: 72
Seat Tube angle: 75
Iro Angus (supposedly their "old school track" frame) 50cm:
Size: 50cm
Seat tube (c-c): 46cm
Top tube: 52cm
Head tube angle: 72
Seat tube angle: 75
Is it because of the size that I'm looking at? Or am I just a noob?
I've seen people recommend the Pre Cursa as a beginner track bike, but the geo is the same as IROs which are usually not recommended due to their "slack" geo.
Here's the dimensions from Probikekit for the Dolan 50cm:
Seat Tube: 50cm
Top tube: 525mm
Head tube angle: 72
Seat Tube angle: 75
Iro Angus (supposedly their "old school track" frame) 50cm:
Size: 50cm
Seat tube (c-c): 46cm
Top tube: 52cm
Head tube angle: 72
Seat tube angle: 75
Is it because of the size that I'm looking at? Or am I just a noob?
05-27-09, 07:35 PM
#4
ex DH/FR rider
Join Date: May 2009
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Sorry for the dumb question, but what exactly is the difference between the two forks, other then the price? Is more rake better? Why?
is this the track or street fork?:
is this the track or street fork?:
Last edited by 00o00; 05-27-09 at 07:45 PM.
05-29-09, 07:18 PM
#5
asleep at the wheel
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 976
Bikes: Custom Richie Ditta Track Bike, Eddie Merckx Corsa, Marioni Custom Pista, Dolan Cyclocross
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The main difference between the forks is that the track fork has a rake of 35mm and is not drilled for a brake, the road fork is 43mm rake and is drilled.
The road fork I believe is more curved and so I think the straight fork in the photo is the track fork. Both are nice but pretty different forks.
The rough rule of thumb (not wishing to get into trail digressions) is that the more rake a fork has the 'slower' the handling. So the road fork is going to be slower turning (less twitchy) and it will also not have probably not have any toe overlap. So it will be more suited for longer and slower rides (compared to track racing). On the 'drome, it means that you will have to counter the steering a lot more. Curved forks are also generally better at dealing with vibration, bumps etc.
The track fork is just that, a fork designed for speed on a velodrome. Ideally you should be able to roll around on the stayers line and never need to steer (though tracks and bikes vary wildly). The shorter rake generally quickens the steering at a cost of 'moving' the front wheel nearer the cranks so at certain angles you can get toe overlap where your toes can touch the tires.
If you could buy any dolan track frame with a drilled track fork - I'd buy one in a heartbeat (Need to be able to ride to my local velodrome and its far too far to ride brakeless.) They really are fantastic value for money; the Navigator wheelsets are really decent for the price and saw lots of folks racing them in the UK
The road fork I believe is more curved and so I think the straight fork in the photo is the track fork. Both are nice but pretty different forks.
The rough rule of thumb (not wishing to get into trail digressions) is that the more rake a fork has the 'slower' the handling. So the road fork is going to be slower turning (less twitchy) and it will also not have probably not have any toe overlap. So it will be more suited for longer and slower rides (compared to track racing). On the 'drome, it means that you will have to counter the steering a lot more. Curved forks are also generally better at dealing with vibration, bumps etc.
The track fork is just that, a fork designed for speed on a velodrome. Ideally you should be able to roll around on the stayers line and never need to steer (though tracks and bikes vary wildly). The shorter rake generally quickens the steering at a cost of 'moving' the front wheel nearer the cranks so at certain angles you can get toe overlap where your toes can touch the tires.
If you could buy any dolan track frame with a drilled track fork - I'd buy one in a heartbeat (Need to be able to ride to my local velodrome and its far too far to ride brakeless.) They really are fantastic value for money; the Navigator wheelsets are really decent for the price and saw lots of folks racing them in the UK
Last edited by fixedpip; 05-29-09 at 07:28 PM.
