ethman

I'm a roadie who would like to get more into track racing. I've been using loaner bikes at my local velodrome, but realize that I'll need to invest in a bike if I want to take my track racing to the next level (I'm beginning to realize that I don't like the gear ratio on the loaner I've been using, nut that's another story entirely). At this point spending a lot of money is out of the question and seems a little unnecessary given the fact that I just don't know how much I'll get into it. Right now road riding is really where my heart is, but I hope to race or train on the track maybe once a week.

Checking online I've found a couple of used Fuji's listed https://https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160593472631&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1156

and

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_500wt_1156

Obviously they will need some work (removing the brakes and tape), but are they worth it for the price? They're both really cheap which is nice, but will I get upgrade fever really quickly with these? I'm not a huge rider (6', 170) so I don't think I'll be causing any major flex in the frames. Also, what are everyone's thoughts about the Felt TK3? Is this a decent entry level bike? I'm not looking to do anything soon, just trying to get some ideas.

Finally, what concerns do you have to be mindful of for fitting a track bike? My road bikes are both 58, can I assume a track bike should be the same size?

Thanks

carleton

I'd consider the 2nd bike, the one with the brakes. It's hard to say what the final price will be being that it's an auction, but the second one will be a great purchase even for a few hundred more. It seems to be lightly used based on the description.

On the other hand, the TK3 is nice and new for $870 MSRP. That's a good option and it's a much nicer color than before. The white with black letters is a nice look. It's nice and new and you know what you've got. You may outgrow the crankset and BB (or maybe not).

It's sort of a tossup. In that case, go with the one that gets you excited about riding/racing.

You are correct in that your track bike should also be a 58cm.

ethman

THanks again Carlton. What's the deal with the crankiest and BB? Do most riders want something stiffer?

carleton

Since you are a road rider, I'm sure you know that when bike manufacturers are trying to trim the MSRP down, they save cost by choosing budget:
- Saddle
- Bar tape
- Bars (in some cases)
- Bottom Bracket (the basic SRAM BB is not very good at all.)
- Cranks
- Seatpost
- Tires

The same goes for track bikes.

The cranksets are usually fine out of the box. But, as you put more and more miles on them, some of the BBs don't roll as smoothly. Sometimes the Q-factor of the cranks is a bit wide. Sometimes the arms are heavy or flexy. Sometimes they just look butt-ugly

My favorite track cranks are Dura Ace 7710. SRAM Omniums are nice and inexpensive (but you will have to upgrade the BB). They are a good option of your feet do not naturally align outward like: \ / I'm not sure what the technical term is for that. But, that's how my feet align and my heels would clip the cranks at the BB area. To determine this, just jump up in the air and see how your feet are positioned when you land. They will either be: | | or \ / or / \

Then there is crank arm length. Some people can really feel the 2.5mm increments. I can. I'm sort of The Princess and The Pea when it comes to bike adjustments.

ethman

And here I thought owning a track bike would be easier (and cheaper) because there are less moving parts. Why does this sport have to be so expensive? That's good to know that one of these entry level bikes could do the trick for a little while.

carleton

Hahaha...it gets worse