You should buy one of these.
Not a question.
Not a a request.
Oh, and Carleton I know the name is wrong on the card. Yu-Gi-Oh will change it when it's printed.
If that doesn't work, the next step would be to buy a micro adjust seatpost. Basically a seatpost with 2 bolts (front and rear). These bolts oppose each other. To adjust the tilt simply loosen one and tighten the other.
Thomson makes a micro adjust seatpost, but there are many more that are much less expensive.
Also, when you buy a seatpost, make sure to note if you need "Zero Offset" or an Offset (set back) seatpost. The best bet would be to visit a local shop and see if they have some inexpensive options that are micro adjustable.
carleton, not to be annoying but any opinions on the da 7710 low-flange hubs I asked about earlier?
it's kinda a time sensitive question.
hey carleton... Has anyone really been far as decided to use even go want to do look more like?
anything measured by the gram is going to be more exciting than something measured in pounds.
I weigh somewhere between 155 and 170 during the year. The rims would be Mavic OPs.
You're perhaps SSFG's most vocal clipless proponent, can you recommend a solid shoe and pedal combination for a first time user? Most of my recreational riding is in the form of 20 to 30 mile road rides, although those numbers are steadily increasing. I've never raced on a track and most likely will not in the foreseeable future.
EDIT: Forgive me if this extends into the realm of "personal shopping."
Try the shoes on before you buy them. Period. Do not buy from a manufacturer unless you know how their sizes are. Look at this chart and you will see the confusion:
By the way, there are LOTS of great shoes and pedals out there. Shimano is just an easy place to start because they offer a full range of shoes and pedals, from budget to high-end and they can be found at both small local shops and big box shops like Performance and REI.
Thanks for the advice, all...I suppose I'll be hitting up the LBS soon. Although it would be nice to be able to walk around in these, I think I want road shoes. That's where I do 98 percent of my riding, and I'm under the impression that there are power transfer-related advantages over MTB setups. Am I something close to correct about this?
MTB shoes/pedals are the most versatile...if you plan on doing other things besides relatively long distance riding/commuting. Road shoes/pedals are basically useless for walking...but are so awesome for riding.
The value of MTB shoes goes up the more time you spend walking in cycling shoes. But, if you ride from your home to your destination and can either keep shoes in your bag or at your destination (the office), the road pedals are the way to go. It's worth it to carry extra shoes.
Road pedal systems are far more sophisticated the MTB pedal systems in terms of pedaling platform (more of your foot is on the pedal), float (free, untensioned floating), cleat placement (fore/aft, left/right, angle), and adjustable release tension. Road shoes are stiffer that MTB shoes (better for power transfer) because MTB shoes are made to allow for walking, running, and climbing during MTB/Cyclocross racing.
Last edited by carleton; 07-11-11 at 07:47 PM.
This thread has confirmed my suspicions that Leukybear is just a meh-troll. ._______________.
But not to derail; Dear Carleton,
How many times does Will Smith have to punk on you before you retaliate?