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Campy's electronic group is supposed to be out soon, MoviStar has been testing for them. According to a local mechanic, the battery mechanism could not be removed and the mechanics for MoviStar had to drag out extension cords to recharge them.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_atrK-jBKJK...iestar%2B1.jpg http://www.campagnolo.com/repository...vistar011p.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_atrK-jBKJK...iestar%2B2.jpg http://cdn.media.cyclingnews.com/201...illeur_600.jpg As for Di2, people are having problem with leakage and an Ultergra Di2 is supposed to be coming out soon; however, the cables and shifter buttons are not interchangeable with Dura Ace Di2 and their battery life is supposedly half of the DA group. One of the good things about Di2, as Carleton mentioned, is the flexibility of shifter buttons placement. Incidentally, the top finishers on this year's Tour de France are on Di2, as are the King of the Mountain and Point Classification. Sprint button for when you're sprinting hard in the drops: http://vuelovelo.com/wp-content/uplo...ter-button.jpg Aero bars button and aero brake-shifter for TT: http://cdn2.media.cyclingnews.future...950_75_600.jpg http://cdn1.media.cyclingnews.future...ters_2_600.jpg Climbing button for long climbs or for races like Roubaix where riders ride on the top a lot: http://cdn.media.cyclingnews.com/201...remote_600.jpg SRAM is staying out of this electronic scene for now because they feel like they could engineer the "best" mechanical group there is but if Campy's electronic group is going to be sold soon, SRAM might eventually step up to the plate. Correction: After a bit of Googling, SRAM had/have a group in 2009 called the SRAM E but I guess it never took off. http://happymtb.org/wp-content/uploa.../03/srame1.jpg http://happymtb.org/wp-content/uploa.../03/srame2.jpg Another correction: That post was just an April Fools joke... PS - BD has been selling their Di2 equipped bike for a while. |
That's an awesome post. Thanks for sharing!
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Thanks Carleton, I guess it's dogma 2 time now.
And Squirelli, you never cease to amaze me, and thank you for the battery leakage part, I knew something was going to strike the first adapters! |
What happens when your battery dies in the middle of a race/ride? I didn't know we were having such a hard time with regular shifters, kinda like when they wanted to do sealed hydraulic systems for mtn bikes.
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Sooo . . . when do we get our "Dear Squirrelli" thread? :D
Awesome post, dude. |
Originally Posted by JesusBananas
(Post 13027468)
Awesome post, dude.
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Originally Posted by vw addict
(Post 13028263)
The one about electronic shifting in the ssfg subforum.....:innocent:
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Originally Posted by vw addict
(Post 13026969)
What happens when your battery dies in the middle of a race/ride? I didn't know we were having such a hard time with regular shifters, kinda like when they wanted to do sealed hydraulic systems for mtn bikes.
What? Battery operated brakes too? |
Originally Posted by Leukybear
(Post 13028528)
Then you will not be able to shift and be stuck in the gear the battery died on...
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Originally Posted by Leukybear
(Post 13028528)
Then you will not be able to shift and be stuck in the gear the battery died on...
What? Battery operated brakes too? |
This guy says it took NINE MONTHS for his battery to die from ONE complete charge.
I was elated that this experiment, one I thought would take me 2-3 months, was actually over and I could report back with EXACTLY what happens to Shimano Di2 when the battery dies. July 9, 2010 – Completely charged my Shimano Di2 Battery. Between July and March 1, 2011 I had ridden an estimated 3200 miles. I don’t have a computer on my bike in the off season (and this was a year long off season) but 100 miles/week is a good estimate. Some weeks I rode >200 miles, other weeks I didn’t ride at all. March 1, 2011 – Finally got the Di2 battery life indicator to go from solid Green (all systems good) to solid Red (battery is getting low <25%). The system still worked fine. I rode a bit more during this time (from March 1 to March 28) and got in about 600 miles of riding. March 28, 2011 – Front Derailleur shut down. The Di2 system knows when the battery is getting really low <10% and turns off the use of the front derailleur – once you shift down to the little chain ring it will leave you there (I suppose if you are a manly man and never leave your big ring then you would be left there). Besides the front derailleur not working, the battery indicator light now blinks Red. You still have full use of the rear derailleur shifting during this time. Since the front derailleur no longer functions, neither does the auto trim feature so you do get some rubbing on the front derailleur. One interesting note is that some of the rubbing of the front derailleur would go away, almost like the derailleur was adjusting itself from the chain rubbing. I missed almost 10 days of riding in this period (March 28-April 21) but was still able to ride about 250 miles (w/out the use of my big chain ring) before the end of the battery. April 21, 2011 – Full system shut down. The Di2 battery finally went into its final death throws. At first the rear shifting completely stopped. About 10 minutes later I got two more shifts and then it stopped working again. This continued for about 30 min (for a total of about 10 shifts) until it finally threw in the towel. |
But things happen carleton; things happen; especially the kind that starts with the letter "s".
Here's the breakdown of the low battery process. http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...Di2Battery.jpg And basically when you run the battery into the ground; you're stuck in the gear the battery dies in technically. |
what's up with the chain at the top of the big ring in that picture? Hooked by the derailleur?
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The outside shield of the derailleur is higher than the inside plate, so it looks like that.
Look: http://cdn1.media.cyclingnews.future...illeur_600.jpg EDIT: I see what you mean, yeah that's pretty weird. |
Full circle. Back to one gear after the juice runs out. That's why I do not pay bills online. Plus, it's an additional reason to get the leg over on hot days.
But Carleton, is all of cycling plagued with mid-section fat? Aside from the 97 pound tour riders, of course. There's a lot of riders that are sleek and toned, with great quads, but then....wah wah, belly. What's the deal? Trying to fight it myself. Leg lifts only exasperate the problem. |
Dear Carleton,
Should I invest in a powertap hub for training purposes? Also, what is your opinion of it? |
Originally Posted by vw addict
(Post 13026969)
What happens when your battery dies in the middle of a race/ride? I didn't know we were having such a hard time with regular shifters
Originally Posted by Leukybear
(Post 13028528)
Then you will not be able to shift and be stuck in the gear the battery died on...
Originally Posted by Squirrelli
(Post 13026438)
PS - BD has been selling their Di2 equipped bike for a while.
Originally Posted by rustybrown
(Post 13032121)
But Carleton, is all of cycling plagued with mid-section fat? Aside from the 97 pound tour riders, of course.
There's a lot of riders that are sleek and toned, with great quads, but then....wah wah, belly. What's the deal? Trying to fight it myself. Leg lifts only exasperate the problem. |
Originally Posted by rustybrown
(Post 13032121)
...But Carleton, is all of cycling plagued with mid-section fat? Aside from the 97 pound tour riders, of course.
There's a lot of riders that are sleek and toned, with great quads, but then....wah wah, belly. What's the deal? Trying to fight it myself. Leg lifts only exasperate the problem.
Originally Posted by Leukybear
(Post 13034509)
Dear Carleton,
Should I invest in a powertap hub for training purposes? Also, what is your opinion of it? The Powertap system is cool. I've used it but I prefer SRM for several reasons. So, if you can get an SRM kit for close to the price of the Powertap, go with the SRM. |
Dear Carleton,
I bought a leader 735tt frame at an absurdly cheap price. http://triathlon.competitor.com/file...eaderframe.jpg I want to make it my short commutes/lock it up at school/running errands bike. So, for this purpose, I plan to build up a pretty cheap bike. I have nearly all of the components I need except a fork and headset. Is there any reason this alpha Q wouldn't work? http://www.cyclingcloseouts.com/Prod...40198510T.aspx I'm trying to keep costs down and I've heard older leader aluminum can be harsh so the carbon should smooth things out. |
He's not a personal shopper.
edit: sorry, I thought you were just asking for a fork, not looking for help with a single one. My apologies. |
Well aware, but thanks for your concern. It's good we have folks like you to add valuable insight to conversation.
I'm not asking him to find me a fork. I just wanted to make sure the one I found and plan to buy was compatible with that frame. Carleton seems to know a lot about frame sizing and component compatibility. I don't understand exactly why a particular rake might work better for one frame compared to another. So, I asked. |
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About batteries - Why can't people just adopt the mentality that when they get home, they plug it in?
I've had friends that buy new iPods because they never charge them and then when they run out blame it on a bad battery :( |
Originally Posted by Sherblock
(Post 13036032)
About batteries - Why can't people just adopt the mentality that when they get home, they plug it in?
I've had friends that buy new iPods because they never charge them and then when they run out blame it on a bad battery :( |
dear carleton,
hopefully this isn't too much of a "personal shopper" question but was wondering if upgrading a GXP bottom bracket is a waste of money. should i just wait for it to poop out. yes... poop. thanks for input. |
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