Carleton & others,
I'm going clipless on one of my bikes (likely getting Zxelliums or similar) -- do you have a cleat/pedal setup that you would recommend for them that won't break the bank?
For road shoes: Shimano PD-R540. $40 on Nashbar.
For MTB shoes: Time ATAC Alium. On sale at Nashbar for $50, not sure how long though.
I saw those and wasn't sure if there was a reason to pay a little more for the 105s or what. It seems like a really popular pedal, thanks for another +1 on it. plus the R540s are prime eligible for $41 at amazon, weee.
thx guys <3
Is your name Alfonso Ribeiro?
It was probably an isolated experience. The tension was probably too low. I've used at least 4 different models of SPD-SL pedals and the clipping in and out felt the same. The newer, wider body is slightly easier to clip into.
Mr. Carleton makes every attempt to answer all questions personally. But, due to his busy engagement schedule he may not answer every one himself. Mr. Carleton is dedicated to answering all questions in a timely manner and sometimes relies on a small staff to help with the process.
Wait I was serious. Are you THE Carleton? i.e. Alfonso? He lifts weights, rides bikes, etc. so you seem to fit the bill
I know this has been asked time and time again but the combination of options I've selected never been asked
I'm going to try clipless for the first time and already decided into SPD to use casual shoes (DZR or MWS). The reason is that I wan't more efficient power transfer and less toe overlap. The ones I've selected are:
Look Quartz Cro-Mo - this is a very lightweight option at 278gr for the pair and the reviews at the link are all good. Some forums say that they unclip more easily than shimanos.
Shimano M520 and Shimano M540. I don't know the difference between these two besides price tbh.
Time Roc Atac and Time Atac Alium. A lot of fixed forums online say good things about Time Atacs. Don't know if it is hype or because they don't unclip as easily as other brands.
Any info/opinion on any of these pedals? Any other reccomendation? And what about DZR and MWS shoes? Also unclipping is a concern when riding fixed? Unclipping would be a very traumatizing experience :-/
Last edited by 8bits; 12-27-11 at 10:33 AM. Reason: added products
I'm going to be buying a trainer shortly to increase my fitness level throughout the winter season. I'm a bit concerned with my tires on the trainer. In your experience, does the steel drum/roller cause the tire to wear funny or become slick? I've noticed Continental sells "trainer" tires, do you think these are necessary?
ALL CITY NATURE BOY
trainers eat tires.
ime continental ultrasport tires last exceptionally long on the trainer and are reasonably cheap.
I have a rear wheel with a conti ultrasport on all the time that I use for my weekday morning workouts before work.
Just don't ride them on the road for too long because they're pieces of crap.
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
The difference between the M520 and M540 is the pedal spindle and probably internal bearings. The 540 is probably lighter, too. But it seems that the clamp is the same.
The LOOK Quartz is cool, but I've never used it. It uses the TIME style two-bar clamp. SPD and Time style pedals behave slightly differently. But, either one will be fine.
If you plan to use the trainer a lot, normal tires will work fine, but a trainer tire will be better. If you can dedicate an extra wheel (any cheap/old functional wheel will do) on which to mount the trainer tire permanently, that would be best. That's what I do.
That makes sense, thanks a lot!
Additional question; I'm mainly looking to get into better shape this winter to make bike riding less tiring and more enjoyable when the weather gets nice again. It seems like I'd spin more on rollers(meaning better cardio?), as well as work on my pedal stroke, balance, etc. Would you recommend rollers over a trainer for my intended purpose? What advantage do trainers really have over rollers, other than size and not needing to balance?
Last edited by ddeadserious; 12-27-11 at 10:51 AM.
ALL CITY NATURE BOY
You can use a trainer without having to worry about balancing, like when reading a book or watching TV. But, many people can ride rollers and watch TV. I do it.
Trainers are coupled better with road bikes because you can vary the resistance with greater range by switching gears. You can also use the road bike on the rollers with a similar effect. A track bike on the trainer can be tough because you'll get stuck in one cadence range. But, you can vary cadences easier on the rollers with a track bike.
I say, if you have a road bike, get a trainer first then rollers. If you have track bike get rollers and not worry about a trainer.
Also, tire pressure is very important on rollers. It directly affects the resistance. I'm a bigger guy, I use 140PSI on rollers. 120PSI is very, very sluggish under my weight, but is fine for normal sized humans.
...also, some trainers are better than others. If you can afford it, buy a nice one. I like:
- TACX Satori magnetic
- Kurt Kinetic Road Machine fluid
I strongly suggest that you try before you buy...any trainer.
Budget trainers feel like crap and would be very discouraging to use.
Great, thanks a lot, that's all very helpful.
ALL CITY NATURE BOY
I picked up a set of Travel Trac rollers from my local Performance Bike. I was pretty concerned with it being rather difficult, but I'm not having much of a problem so far. I do notice quite a bit of resistance, especially since I'm only running 72GI. My tires(Gator Hardshells) are at 100PSI, with a max rating of 120PSI. Would you recommend going as high as 140PSI? I'm somewhere north of 235lbs.
ALL CITY NATURE BOY
2) You can probably get away with going 10PSI over the printed rating
3) Gatorskin Hardshells probably have lots of rubber which adds to the resistance.
I say pump them to 120 PSI for the rollers and see how that feels. It will be a big difference. Much like 120PSI feels super sluggish till I go to 140 on my Conti Supersonics (which are rated to go to 140psi).