"Dear Carleton"
#1926
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The skinsuit looks like it would be annoying to pee with, but if that's not an area of concern for you, then I don't see any other noticeable downsides.
/notcarleton
/alsonotactuallyfamiliarwithskinsuits, just making an observation
/notcarleton
/alsonotactuallyfamiliarwithskinsuits, just making an observation
#1927
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No problem!
Yeah, the one-piece suits are tough in the bathroom. But, the Castelli is a 2-piece suit which is just like a normal kit. Just the jersey is tight.
Yeah, the one-piece suits are tough in the bathroom. But, the Castelli is a 2-piece suit which is just like a normal kit. Just the jersey is tight.
#1928
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The weight thing is because I just didn't know if that was some testimonials from fanboys. since bikes in the same price range (on <$3000 models) seem lighter most of the time. I think their sub $3000 road bikes teeter in the 20lb range, where the cheaper madones and similar bikes are 16.5-17lbs and that just stood out to me is all.
#1929
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Dear Carleton,
I've been riding my road bike for the past weeks and I think I've got the fit down perfect. My question is can I get my track bike to be as comfortable as my road bike? Road bike has a 57.5cm top tube and a 120mm -6 degree stem, 73 degree st/ht, 190mm head tube. Track bike is 57.5 tt and +10 120mm stem, 160mm head tube, and 74.5 st/ht angles. I have the saddle set further back on the track bike to mimic the road bike's setup, but I still feel like I'm putting way too much pressure on my hands. Can my track bike be as comfortable for the road as my road bike or should I htfu? BTW road bike obviously has road drops/hoods and track bike only has road drops.
thank you
I've been riding my road bike for the past weeks and I think I've got the fit down perfect. My question is can I get my track bike to be as comfortable as my road bike? Road bike has a 57.5cm top tube and a 120mm -6 degree stem, 73 degree st/ht, 190mm head tube. Track bike is 57.5 tt and +10 120mm stem, 160mm head tube, and 74.5 st/ht angles. I have the saddle set further back on the track bike to mimic the road bike's setup, but I still feel like I'm putting way too much pressure on my hands. Can my track bike be as comfortable for the road as my road bike or should I htfu? BTW road bike obviously has road drops/hoods and track bike only has road drops.
thank you
#1930
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I was just shopping for a new road bike and tried a Madone 5.X with H2 geometry, a 6.x with H1 or H2 (they were fuzzy about it), a Giant TCR Advanced (I have the track version and like it), a specialized Roubaix, a Gary Fisher Cronus, and a BMC RaceMachine. All were new except the BMC, which was a year old but very lightly used by someone I know and in mint condition. I bought the BMC because it handled the best of all of them and felt to me like the most comfortable ride. The 6.X felt and handled a lot like the old OCLV 5000 that the new bike replaced. The Roubaix felt like a really upright cruiser. The TCR was nice, but a little twitchier than I like in front, though it was probably the best price/performance except for the BMC (which cost more than the TCR, even used).
Dear Carleton,
I've been riding my road bike for the past weeks and I think I've got the fit down perfect. My question is can I get my track bike to be as comfortable as my road bike? Road bike has a 57.5cm top tube and a 120mm -6 degree stem, 73 degree st/ht, 190mm head tube. Track bike is 57.5 tt and +10 120mm stem, 160mm head tube, and 74.5 st/ht angles. I have the saddle set further back on the track bike to mimic the road bike's setup, but I still feel like I'm putting way too much pressure on my hands. Can my track bike be as comfortable for the road as my road bike or should I htfu? BTW road bike obviously has road drops/hoods and track bike only has road drops.
thank you
I've been riding my road bike for the past weeks and I think I've got the fit down perfect. My question is can I get my track bike to be as comfortable as my road bike? Road bike has a 57.5cm top tube and a 120mm -6 degree stem, 73 degree st/ht, 190mm head tube. Track bike is 57.5 tt and +10 120mm stem, 160mm head tube, and 74.5 st/ht angles. I have the saddle set further back on the track bike to mimic the road bike's setup, but I still feel like I'm putting way too much pressure on my hands. Can my track bike be as comfortable for the road as my road bike or should I htfu? BTW road bike obviously has road drops/hoods and track bike only has road drops.
thank you
Yes
My brain isn't powerful enough to process all of the measurements and give you the new bike settings to make you comfortable.
Start with these tools:
- Level
- Measuring Tape
- Bike trainer (in front of a big mirror if possible)
- Borrow as many stems of different sizes/angles as you can.
- Video camera locked in one place. Either a camera or video camera on a tripod would work well. You will use the video and screen caps of the video to see minute differences.
- Photoshop to line up the screen caps. Layer up all screen caps around the BB as the center point...which not coincidentally is the center point of your bike fit.
It's a bit tedious, but it's effective.
#1931
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If you are able to dial your road bike in then it wont be any harder to dial in the track bike.
#1933
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Carleton,
Any exercises you can recommend to strengthen the muscles involved in resistive pedaling/braking? I know it sounds kind of silly, but I'm riding brakeless on the street, and would like to be more effective at slowing myself down without skidding.
Any exercises you can recommend to strengthen the muscles involved in resistive pedaling/braking? I know it sounds kind of silly, but I'm riding brakeless on the street, and would like to be more effective at slowing myself down without skidding.
#1935
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Thanks; the Kagero isn't drilled for brakes and I'd rather not drill it. Just want to be a bit better at slowing down.
#1938
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@ddeadserious: https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=3748 Keirin brakes clamp onto the fork.
/notcarleton
/notcarleton
#1940
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#1941
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The problem with riding brakeless on the road isn't so much that your legs need to be strong in order to effectively stop the bike as the effectiveness of rear wheel only braking is limited by the grip between the tire and the road. Building up your legs muscles will only help to a point, beyond which the additional strength will only mean that you will be able to bring the wheel to a skid more quickly. Once the wheel is skidding, there's nothing more you can do to increase the effectiveness of the braking action.
#1942
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The problem with riding brakeless on the road isn't so much that your legs need to be strong in order to effectively stop the bike as the effectiveness of rear wheel only braking is limited by the grip between the tire and the road. Building up your legs muscles will only help to a point, beyond which the additional strength will only mean that you will be able to bring the wheel to a skid more quickly. Once the wheel is skidding, there's nothing more you can do to increase the effectiveness of the braking action.
#1943
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I understand what you're saying, but I don't skid at all. I can't get get these tires to hold a skid for any notable amount of time(meaning I can get them to barely chirp before they regain traction). Since the tires seem to stick to the ground pretty well, and I mostly avoid riding in crappy conditions, I should generally have enough traction to slow myself down appropriately. Even when I rode with a brake, I very rarely used it. I'm not making excuses; riding brakeless is probably not the best idea ever, I'm willing to admit that. I'm still toying with the idea of finishing drilling the fork, I'm just not sure I want to.
Or lower your gear ratio to 48/18 or 19?
#1944
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I've definitely been thinking about grabbing another fork when my tax return arrives. I also was running 46x17 for a while, which was real nice on climbs and road riding, but I was spinning way too much on my rollers. I'm fairly comfortable with my ability to stop appropriately right now, I was just looking for a way(other than riding more, since the weather here sucks) to strengthen the muscles used in "braking", that's all. Appreciate the input.
#1945
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I've definitely been thinking about grabbing another fork when my tax return arrives. I also was running 46x17 for a while, which was real nice on climbs and road riding, but I was spinning way too much on my rollers. I'm fairly comfortable with my ability to stop appropriately right now, I was just looking for a way(other than riding more, since the weather here sucks) to strengthen the muscles used in "braking", that's all. Appreciate the input.
You know, you can always put on a small cog on the flip side of your wheel for roller workouts, right? That just requires you to remove and turn the wheel over. Track racers change wheels, chainrings, and/or cogs several times during a training session. Not a big deal.
#1946
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What gear ratio do you use now? Please answer.
You know, you can always put on a small cog on the flip side of your wheel for roller workouts, right? That just requires you to remove and turn the wheel over. Track racers change wheels, chainrings, and/or cogs several times during a training session. Not a big deal.
You know, you can always put on a small cog on the flip side of your wheel for roller workouts, right? That just requires you to remove and turn the wheel over. Track racers change wheels, chainrings, and/or cogs several times during a training session. Not a big deal.
#1947
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48/17 is too big for riding in traffic. Yes, you can get it moving at a nice clip, but acceleration, and more importantly, braking will suffer.
Remember, roadies started using track bikes on the road to work on their pedal stroke in the off season. They used easy, manageable gears. Although your gear isn't outrageous, it's still too high in my opinion.
Get an 18t. If you want to go fast, learn to spin faster. This will make you a better cyclist.
I don't pay attention to the direction on the threads. I don't think they really do anything. Car tire threads, yes. Bike tire treads, no.
#1948
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I appreciate the input, will definitely look into grabbing a bigger cog for road riding. Thanks!
#1949
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48/17 is too big for riding in traffic. Yes, you can get it moving at a nice clip, but acceleration, and more importantly, braking will suffer.
Remember, roadies started using track bikes on the road to work on their pedal stroke in the off season. They used easy, manageable gears. Although your gear isn't outrageous, it's still too high in my opinion.
Get an 18t. If you want to go fast, learn to spin faster. This will make you a better cyclist.
Remember, roadies started using track bikes on the road to work on their pedal stroke in the off season. They used easy, manageable gears. Although your gear isn't outrageous, it's still too high in my opinion.
Get an 18t. If you want to go fast, learn to spin faster. This will make you a better cyclist.
I don't pay attention to the direction on the threads. I don't think they really do anything. Car tire threads, yes. Bike tire treads, no.
#1950
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If you're that concerned about thread directionality, put the cogs on them such that you're running your trainer gear on there with the tire facing the "wrong" way and the road gear with it facing the right way.
/notcoolenoughtodothecarletondance
/notcoolenoughtodothecarletondance
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