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Old 07-01-11, 11:50 AM   #1
dtao819
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Track Frame Sizing

Hey everyone! A buddy of mine has two Fuji Track Pro's (49, and 52) and he is willing to sell me either one. The thing is that I don't really know what is proper fit.



My buddy mentioned that if I were to choose the 52, I would have to cut the seatpost more and that might look a bit weird. Having the size 49 would allow me to have the seatpost about an inch taller compared to the 52 and I can compensate with a longer stem. What is everyone's opinion? I plan on riding using this mainly as a weekend bike on the road. I am 5'6 1/2" and have been told that I have a longer upper torso. Wouldn't the 49 look and perform more aggressively?

My feet were 6 inches apart and I was against the wall. My girlfriend pushed a book up towards my crotch and stopped at a comfortable position. At 29.5 inches, the book was slightly pushing against my crotch. I wear 30x30 jeans, but I often fold the bottom up because it is a tad bit long. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 07-01-11, 12:39 PM   #2
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DO THIS then decide ... track fit tends to be 1-2 CM smaller than your road fit so subtract accordingly on the top tube meas
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Old 07-03-11, 09:10 PM   #3
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DO THIS then decide ... track fit tends to be 1-2 CM smaller than your road fit so subtract accordingly on the top tube meas
This is not true.
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Roadies can run tempo all year as that's what humans were designed for. If you want to be a cheetah, lay around and lick your paws more.
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Old 07-04-11, 07:17 AM   #4
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Here is the size chart from Fuji off of Evan's Cycles.
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File Type: jpg size chart.jpg (70.9 KB, 25 views)
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Old 07-04-11, 07:48 PM   #5
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This is not true.
yeah, generally it's best to start with something as close as you can get to your road position and tweak from there as you get experience riding.
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Old 07-05-11, 05:30 AM   #6
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This is not true.
explain why it isn't Carleton. I have had been told this by a few frame builders and couple of old track guys. So I'm not making this up on my own here. Interested to know the contrary logic, because typically your saddle to handle bar drop is significantly more on a track bike, same applies when fitting a TT bike. And let me clarify that the the TopTube being slightly shorter is the concern here, perhaps I should have been more clear there. Also, seat tube length is nearly a non-important measurement these days with sloping top tubes so I'll leave that be, were not talking about square geometry here. Please explain.
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Old 07-05-11, 08:03 AM   #7
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explain why it isn't Carleton. I have had been told this by a few frame builders and couple of old track guys. So I'm not making this up on my own here. Interested to know the contrary logic, because typically your saddle to handle bar drop is significantly more on a track bike, same applies when fitting a TT bike. And let me clarify that the the TopTube being slightly shorter is the concern here, perhaps I should have been more clear there. Also, seat tube length is nearly a non-important measurement these days with sloping top tubes so I'll leave that be, were not talking about square geometry here. Please explain.
I don't have much time now to explain, but unless the OP is interested in sprinting, his track bike will fit very much like a road bike. It doesn't sound like the OP is interested in sprinting and the Fuji Track Pro doesn't have sprint bike geometry. So, the best advice is to size it like a road bike.

Here is Jackie Simes IV, probably one of the best coached (and fit) track racers in the US. He also races 6-days in Europe


Notice that his position is much more like a road position than the much too stereotypical track sprinter position of high saddle + low bars.

I would venture to guess that the geo on this bike is very similar to his road bike.
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Old 07-05-11, 10:06 AM   #8
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Carleton,

I agree mostly here for longer distance events. In all fairness there are too many peculiarities in regard to fit for diff track events to debate it extensively and going 1 CM smaller isn't widly wrong either; keeping in mind the avg rider can't swing owning a sprint frame, pursuit/kilo and a madison/six day bike. So my logic on this is go 1 cm or so smaller disregarding stand-over and leave your self some room for the option to throw on some aero bars and not be stretched out too much. Besides, given the OP's options and fit results he has one choice anyway. Too bad we can't all have Keith Bergeman looking after us and I love my Parlee Z4.

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Old 07-05-11, 10:25 AM   #9
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You have a Parlee? I'm jealous!

The OP has been silent. I wonder if he/she even intends on racing this new bike...or putting risers on it and riding it on the street, which would make this discussion all for nothing.
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Roadies can run tempo all year as that's what humans were designed for. If you want to be a cheetah, lay around and lick your paws more.
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Old 07-05-11, 10:39 AM   #10
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You have a Parlee? I'm jealous!

The OP has been silent. I wonder if he/she even intends on racing this new bike...or putting risers on it and riding it on the street, which would make this discussion all for nothing.
yes indeed. 2008 z4 I grabbed the Frame & fork used/mint off a team mate who worked there for stint, built 10spd Campy record, reynolds dv46C deda zero100 cockpit and seatpost super stoopid light. eeekk!
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Old 07-05-11, 11:12 AM   #11
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yes indeed. 2008 z4 I grabbed the Frame & fork used/mint off a team mate who worked there for stint, built 10spd Campy record, reynolds dv46C deda zero100 cockpit and seatpost super stoopid light. eeekk!
Photo?
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Roadies can run tempo all year as that's what humans were designed for. If you want to be a cheetah, lay around and lick your paws more.
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Old 07-05-11, 12:12 PM   #12
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I'll put some up later in the appropriate thread
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