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Thread: Gearing Q's

  1. #1
    Senior Member ethman's Avatar
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    Gearing Q's

    I tried to do a search to answer my questions, so I apologize in advance if this has been discussed to death already.

    Recently picked up a used TK2. I saw on another thread where Carleton recommended a few chainrings and cogs in different sizes. After looking on Ebay I was pleasantly surprised to see new cogs only run about $20 apiece (finally something bike related that's not too expensive!).

    I have a few questions about finding the right chainrings and cogs:

    Since the Felt website listed the existing cog as being 15t x 1/2 pitch x 1/8 I assume I need to find cogs that are 1/8 wide? I have no idea what 1/2 pitch means.

    The bike has a Sram crankset, do I need to buy any particular brand of chainrings (Shimano, Sram, FSA, Campy)? What about cogs?

    Finally (on an unrelated note), why do track cyclists put tape on their top tubes???

  2. #2
    No matches Flatballer's Avatar
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    1) 1/2 pitch is all they make anymore, so don't worry about that (it's the distance between the links, FYI). Yes, I'd get all 1/8" wide cogs and chainrings to keep it matching and strong.

    2) Brand doesn't matter, I've been buying Sugino 75 because they're cheap for the good reviews they get. You need 144bcd chainrings, not 130.

    3) Because the bars swing around when carrying the bike and can scratch the top tube. Road bikes have enough cabling that the bars don't want to swing all the way around.
    It's a bike race, not a tea party. - GirlAnachronism

  3. #3
    Senior Member Kayce's Avatar
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    Miche and FSA chainrings are the cheaper end but still high quality chainrings. As far as cogs go, Durace is where you want to be.
    If You Meet The Buddha On The Road, Kill Him

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    Senior Member bitingduck's Avatar
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    I've always used a random assortment of brands for chainrings and cogs. I tend to buy the DA cogs, and usually just need 14-15-16, and keep a 17 around for my GF to use on the road. Chainrings I use 48-49-50-51 with reasonable frequency, and keep a 52 and a 53 around for the rare occasions when I know a race isn't going to slow down at all. I also have a 47 that doesn't get used much, and I think a 46 that I've never used that also is kept around for the road.

    I always run 1/8" chain and 1/8" cogs, and the chainrings vary-- some are 3/32 and some are 1/8.
    Track - the other off-road
    http://www.lavelodrome.org

  5. #5
    Senior Member ethman's Avatar
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    Great, thanks everybody.

    Bitingduck- do you ever do Roger's sessions on Tues and Thur nights? I was out last Thur and I'm hoping to start doing those one night a week.

  6. #6
    Senior Member bitingduck's Avatar
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    I've only been to the track about twice since september, but did them at least once a week, plus madison practice on sunday, pretty much since the track opened until then. I'll probably be back out this summer. They're great sessions and if you ride them like he plans them you can get really strong. The motor game is awesome training that you can't easily get anywhere else.
    Track - the other off-road
    http://www.lavelodrome.org

  7. #7
    Senior Member chas58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ethman View Post
    Finally (on an unrelated note), why do track cyclists put tape on their top tubes???
    If you don't put full tape on your handle bars, it will be metal to metal when the bars come into contact with the top tube. Not much of a problem if you fully wrap your handlebars, but it is fashionable in track to only wrap the bottom part of your bars.

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