I'm looking for my first track bike. noob
 

Hey guys,

So, I already have the most important part... a set of excited strong legs.

My goal is to spend as little money as possible until I have decided that this is something I will pursue further.

I have read around this forum trying to gather some info and I have decided that I will be choosing between the Kilo tt, the kilo tt pro, and the motobecane track.

I know that these are not ideal bikes, and I expect to grow out of whatever I start on in less than 2 years. Once I decide weather I will be able to work up to competing at a high level, I will decide weather or not to invest in a better bike. I'm 24 and I would like to be able to travel and win some races.

I unfortunately will be buying via bd

Here are my questions:

The geometry is apparently exactly the same on the Kilo TT and the Pro version, are the upgrades in parts worth the extra $90?
TT
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott.htm
TTPro
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ott_pro_xi.htm

Also, The bottom bracket height is a little higher on the motobecane track than the Kilos, but the wheelbase is a little longer, would that be better geometry? It is significantly cheaper too at $280
http://www.motobecane.com/track/trk.html#geo

The Motobecane does have lower quality parts, but I'm interested in what I can do at first, not my bike. Basically this first bike is coming along for the ride, so I want to know what I can get away with on the price. I just need something that will hold up while I make my attempt to break into the world of track racing.

Thanks guys,
Chris

First, welcome to the wonderful world of track cycling. If there's one thing I can guarantee...you'll love it!

As for the bike: This is my first season as well. Honestly, you want to get the best bike you can afford. I've heard that the Kilos were heavy, which won't help. But as a starter bike you'd be fine. The Motobecane has quite a bit longer wheelsbase than my Felt. I would say go with the shorter wheelbase. I was looking at the same thing (TT Pro) but once I started weighing the options I went with a Felt TK3. I know you said you were planning on buying from BD which limits your options. I believe the Pro has a slightly higher quality crank, different wheelset and tires, and fancier paint job (chrome). Just as a note, there are some good deals on used track bikes.

Just playing devils advocate, if you get more involved in track riding, I'd honestly be surprised if you held onto the bike for close to that long. I like my Felt a lot but as I've been getting more and more into it (new rollers are scheduled to arrive today and shopping for race wheels and such) my plan is to build a bike up for next season. Hence my suggestion to get the best bike you can for the money.

Hopefully through all my rambling I hope I was able to help a little Good luck and keep us posted.

My Kilo TT was lighter than my Felt TK3 I think, not that it matters at all since the Kilo was like a jello blob compared to the TK.

The Pro gets the 130bcd crank and a sealed bearing (formula?) hubs that are pretty nice. If you don't know if its something you're gonna give a **** about then go with the Kilo TT Pro, They don't depreciate at all so worst case you're out 40$ in shipping to realize that riding in circles isn't for you.

I dont know if this is much of a benefit, but I have a SRAM s100 crank on my current fixed gear setup. Is that going to be better or worse than what I would be getting with one of the kilos?

In my first year of racing I couldn’t tell much of a performance difference between the Kilo TT (the original KHS version) and the felt TK3. The felt handled a lot better, but that isn’t something that would make the difference between winning and losing. I rather liked the Kilo/KHS a bit better.

I see people selling the Kilo TT on craig’s list for the same or more than they paid for it.

My suggestions:

- Buy a bike that is better than you are currently. Your skills will grow quickly in the beginning.
- Buy aluminum over steel. Unless it's some really, really nice steel, you will probably want to upgrade to aluminum or carbon very soon. So, maybe go ahead and buy aluminum from the beginning.
- Bikesdirect puts the least expensive components they can find on those bikes. You will likely replace many of them in the near future. Better parts cost more. Buying lesser parts then buying better parts costs even more than that :)

If this is your goal, then see about renting a bike for maybe 5-10 sessions. That will be cheaper than buying a bike to see if you like the sport.

Having just bought a used track bike, I'd urge you to heed carleton's advice. If you really do have a set of "excited strong legs" then I too think the kilo will last you a single season if that. Granted you can normally sell them quickly depending on where you are. So I'd save the money and just rent a bike. Most of the classes you can sign up for will either have rentals, or have the ability to get rentals. Its worth the time spent on a rental bike just to see if you like it. Renting also gives you a little time to save for a better bike you can "grow" into. I just bought a bike that is WAY faster than I am, and I have no need to change a thing on it (save for a better rider of course) for a number of years.

if you must own a bike now, go with the recommendations.

Well the last thing I want to do is rent more than a couple times. But, I will probably do that being that my local bike shop has 2012 specialized langers for 575. I couldn't think of a better deal than that, since the 2012 non pro model is actually build with real track geometry. As a plus, I get to support my local small bike shop. On the down side, I will have to wait to buy it until the middle/end of winter to make the purchase, but they have 3 in my size still boxed up, so I think I will be safe.

I have to ask:
Why alum. vs Double butted ChroMoly frame with a Tripple butted ChroMoly fork? The Motobecane Track uses last years Fuji Frame. The same frame is used on several Fuji models, Feather, Feather CX, Declaration etc. as well as the Wellington "The Hour" etc. The better bikes have the same frame yet better components.
Granted it is not Reynolds 501, 520, 525 and 725 tubes , which by the way is 4130 ChroMoly Steel with out Reynolds name. http://www.brightspoke.com/c/underst...materials.html
It is Fuji's 4130 ChroMoly Steel.
The Track 54CM weighs in at 21lbs. Not a 15lb speedster, yet also not the 25lb commuter bike.

I am of the belief that the frame on this inexpensive bike will hold up assuming you don't crash it and you will be able to upgrade it's components as time goes on.
This gives you the freedom to own the bike and do what you want with it with out spending a fortune. It also allow you to start riding today.
Just my $0.02

Alum (or carbon) tend to be stiffer and more responsive than steel. With the accelerations you do in track, you really want your bike to jump with you. Stiffness is critical.

Like Carleton alluded too, upgrading parts on a steel bike is rather a waste of money. A true track bike is much stiffer than a road bike. Putting good parts on a soft frame isn't getting you what you need for track. That is my experience at least.

Thanks for the help guys, I think I'm going to get the Langster unless I find a better deal before I get to buying it.

Why don't you want to rent?

This is looking like one of those: I have decided what I am going to do despite everyone's advice situations.

Bingo.

That's not true at all. I am avoiding renting because it is the same idea as renting apartment vs. buying a house, It is basically throwing away money that could be spent on a purchase.

What you don't know (and I just found out) is that one of the two velos near me has two affiliate shops that provide free loaner bikes for their rider development programs. I will be taking advantage of that for the next 4 Mondays until I the season is over.

Also, I heeded the general advice that I gathered: Don't waste money on a steel frame. So, I will be keeping a lookout for the best deal I can find on a true track bike for under $600 until I decide to pull the trigger on something. As of right now I consider the 2012 Langster to be a pretty good safety net choice. I would prefer to buy new if possible, and I will be checking a lot of shops in the coming couple of months to see if I can find any older models that have been sitting around.

I don't understand how?

EDIT:
I will admit that I may have overlooked some advice, but all I gathered was:
Dont buy steel
Get a bike that is above my perceived level
Consider renting

I posted asking for advice for a reason, and I'm taking all of is seriously

Check out Velodrome Store from uk you can get a Dolan precursa for $585US. http://www.velodromeshop.net/index.php?p=product&id=18

Think of it this way though. You have never raced track before, and may not like it. Renting a bike will cost you at most $20, and you get your feet wet to see if you like it. Compared to spending $400 on a bike that you may end up never using. If you like track racind that $400 will work for a little while, but eventually you will want to upgrade, adn if you don't like it you won't be able to recoupe even half of that on the resale market. But if you take a little time and rent a few times, you will end up "wasting" less money on inferior equiptment/ useless equiptment.

Sir,
That is a fantastic deal. Is it safe to say that that is better than the Langster?

As I said, I will be going to a rider development program for the next 4 mondays, where I will be borrowing a track bike from a local shop for free. I think at that point I will have an idea of how I feel about the sport, and if I am still on the fence, I'll rent a couple of times.

On another subject, as someone who seems to know the sport well, how do you fee about the Dolan that pista posted as a first bike?

The dolan is slightly nicer than the standard langster, and a solid notch below the langster pro. The only thing that would be iffy on that bike is the cranks. So figure in another $100 for that upgrade when making your choice. With the standard langster you can push off new cranks for a while, and if you go langster pro you are just below the top level on the cranks.

I don't understand why you are ignoring that I will be riding on a track at least a few times before purchasing a bike?

Also, I'm not some idiot who just goes and wastes money on a something so expensive without knowing how I feel about it. Are you suggesting that I spend a year renting bikes then spending $1000+ on a bike that I cannot afford? Because, I don't understand your problem.

Calm it down, reread what I said. There was nothing of attack in there.

Yep, I actually did after pressing post... then my computer died. I managed to completely misread that post, and I'm sorry.

Are there any bikes that you know of that would be a better choice under $700. I really don't want to spend that much, but if there is one worth considering, I will do just that.

That is a pretty low ball estimate of what you can get something that will be a worthwhile investment. This is a bit leading, but answering these questions will be very helpful.

Are you in North America?

Do you have a road bike? If so, whats its quality?

Do you have a gym membership, a community gym, or basic weight equiptment?

What is your fitness level right now?

What tracks do you have close?

That is a pretty low ball estimate of what you can get something that will be a worthwhile investment. This is a bit leading, but answering these questions will be very helpful.

-That is more than I have to spend, I'd rather get into the sport with something low end than not get into it at all. Assuming I enjoy it.

Are you in North America?

-Yes, downtown Chicago

Do you have a road bike? If so, whats its quality?

-I don't I use a converted fixed gear to commute

Do you have a gym membership, a community gym, or basic weight equiptment?

-I am a personal trainer by profession

What is your fitness level right now?

-See above. I'm not in the same shape I was when I wrestled in high school, but I am in much better shape than most. I'm working on my flexibility for this more than anything.

What tracks do you have close?

-Chicago velo campus (30min drive) http://www.chicagovelocampus.com/
The Ed Rudolph Velodrome (30min drive) http://www.northbrookvelodrome.org/
Kenosha Velodrome http://www.333m.com/ (for a change in competition, and another perspective when I can make the trip. It's close to my parents house-30 min or an an hour and a half from where I live)