Track Racing Frames and Complete Bikes
#151
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Having never seen that All City in person- it actually doesn't look half bad for a frame on that price point..
Geometry looks decent- and I like that it's low/long like most carbon frames instead of the old Square Geo so many steel/alu frames go with..
Geometry looks decent- and I like that it's low/long like most carbon frames instead of the old Square Geo so many steel/alu frames go with..
#152
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lol. i as well see a lot of these bull**** statements tacked on to products (can't help it, imma machinist). i attribute it to separating the 'design team' from the actual end product until it arrives off the boat.
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Not sure if it is the case with this manufacturer but with others where ive seen smooth welds referenced it just means a filler has been put over the top of the weld and then sanded down to make for a smooth finish. The actual welding process is the same though!
you can see it on this Boardman TK20
you can see it on this Boardman TK20
#154
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perfectly smooth welds are just sanded, you shouldn't need a secondary filler, maybe a high build primer?
Giant and Felt weld beads have the "stack of dimes" look that people associate with AL welding
Specialized and Low have a flatter bead, you can get it pretty easy by using a smaller filler rod slower movement.
Thats assuming they're even hand made, machine welds are usually constant feed and will be perfectly uniform with no dime look.
I weld, I prefer the flat un-sanded beads like Low and Specialized. Sanding, at least in the racecar/performance welding world, is usually to hide something that didn't get welded great.
Giant and Felt weld beads have the "stack of dimes" look that people associate with AL welding
Specialized and Low have a flatter bead, you can get it pretty easy by using a smaller filler rod slower movement.
Thats assuming they're even hand made, machine welds are usually constant feed and will be perfectly uniform with no dime look.
I weld, I prefer the flat un-sanded beads like Low and Specialized. Sanding, at least in the racecar/performance welding world, is usually to hide something that didn't get welded great.
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I've read of manufacturers using some filler, not sure what it is though. Sanding welds perfectly smooth tends to remove some of the parent material at the toe of a fillet.
#156
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FINALLY, someone at Fuji fell on their head and obtained some aesthetic sensibilities!
From this:
To this:
Not perfect, but MUCH better.
From this:
To this:
Not perfect, but MUCH better.
#157
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i wanted a moots track bike to match my moots road so i contacted them. they said they would make a track frame and it would cost about $4000 hahahaha...
they use the compact frame w/ a tapered ht and track drop outs. they said they use "track geo" but i didn't ask for details.
heres a photo from their IG account showing a track build (no photos of the full build)
they use the compact frame w/ a tapered ht and track drop outs. they said they use "track geo" but i didn't ask for details.
heres a photo from their IG account showing a track build (no photos of the full build)
Last edited by Impreza_aL; 12-11-14 at 06:31 PM.
#158
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I was going to grab one so I can turn my current bike into fixie nerd bike. Value is pretty solid compared to everything else.
#159
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i wanted a moots track bike to match my moots road so i contacted them. they said they would make a track frame and it would cost about $4000 hahahaha...
they use the compact frame w/ a tapered ht and track drop outs. they said they use "track geo" but i didn't ask for details.
heres a photo from their IG account showing a track build (no photos of the full build)
they use the compact frame w/ a tapered ht and track drop outs. they said they use "track geo" but i didn't ask for details.
heres a photo from their IG account showing a track build (no photos of the full build)
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#161
VeloSIRraptor
Ti is a bad material for track racing dropouts in general - but that's some of what you pay for when going to a non-track specialist manuf... oh well. I bet it'll be a great looking bike that is loved and ridden plenty. It'll be better looking than my scratched up Giant, and it'll also get ridden more than said Giant
#162
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my money is that anyone who is "buying a moots track to match moots road" is rolling "ratcheting socket style" anyway?
Ti is a bad material for track racing dropouts in general - but that's some of what you pay for when going to a non-track specialist manuf... oh well. I bet it'll be a great looking bike that is loved and ridden plenty. It'll be better looking than my scratched up Giant, and it'll also get ridden more than said Giant
Ti is a bad material for track racing dropouts in general - but that's some of what you pay for when going to a non-track specialist manuf... oh well. I bet it'll be a great looking bike that is loved and ridden plenty. It'll be better looking than my scratched up Giant, and it'll also get ridden more than said Giant
Tiemeyer and Felt TK1 use Ti dropouts and I never needed a chain tensioner for either one, even during standing starts.
I can't recall about the TK1, but I know that Tiemeyer droputs are replaceable. Actually I bought some extras from Mr. Tiemeyer before he retired.
#164
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There's a good discussion on these MAATs on the facebook tracksprinting group. Some of the Brits use them due to sponsorship and they're not really happy with them
#165
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It lists a 19mm fork offset. Wow. That's the shortest I've ever seen. The Bianchi Pista's 25mm was the shortest that I knew of before today.
#166
Senior Member
Well, I went in and tracked down the post and lo and behold some of the comments are gone. You can see a comment thanking a couple of guys for their input, but the input is gone. I know it wasn't a glowing recommendation because I had a friend looking at getting one at the time and I pointed him to the discussion. Basically they aren't the stiffest things out there, and for the price, there's much better options. I will admit they do catch your eye though!
#167
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Well, I went in and tracked down the post and lo and behold some of the comments are gone. You can see a comment thanking a couple of guys for their input, but the input is gone. I know it wasn't a glowing recommendation because I had a friend looking at getting one at the time and I pointed him to the discussion. Basically they aren't the stiffest things out there, and for the price, there's much better options. I will admit they do catch your eye though!
Expensive cars go faster. Expensive bikes...not so much.
#168
aka mattio
yeah with the MAAT it kind of seems like Pinarello tried to churn out a superbike - or at least sell it like it's a superbike - but without the deep development that's required.
#169
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Make it with:
- Round seatpost
- 74 degree head and seat tubes
- 30-34mm offset fork
- 50mm BB drop
- Strong rear triangle and BB area.
- Long rear dropouts made with replaceable Ti plates
- Ridiculously stiff.
- Retail Price for carbon frame/fork $1,500 with a basic paintjob (one color) (FYI: Some paint jobs add $200 to the price of a frame...I don't need all of that!)
Avoid:
- Aero seatpost
- Integrated seatpost
- Proprietary stem systems
- Really short head tubes. Not long, not short, just normal.
- Charging a absurdly high price for it.
- Logo overload
VERY few bikes match all of the above.
BT Stealth is one that matches most of the specs (besides price). It's so expensive. But, that's probably why they can ask for so much $$ is because they know what they have!
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Also note "Frame CAAD10 Track, SmartFormed 6069 Alloy, BB30 w /threaded adapter"
#174
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Correct. CAAD10 TRACK 1 - CAAD10 - ELITE ROAD - ROAD - BIKES - 2015
Also note "Frame CAAD10 Track, SmartFormed 6069 Alloy, BB30 w /threaded adapter"
Also note "Frame CAAD10 Track, SmartFormed 6069 Alloy, BB30 w /threaded adapter"
I personally don't like it...even for enduros. There are better options out there.
I like the wheels, cranks, saddle and chain. That's about it.
#175
Lapped 3x
The funny thing is, it's not that hard to make a really good sprint bike. Just start with some basic requirements:
Make it with:
- Round seatpost
- 74 degree head and seat tubes
- 30-34mm offset fork
- 50mm BB drop
- Strong rear triangle and BB area.
- Long rear dropouts made with replaceable Ti plates
- Ridiculously stiff.
- Retail Price for carbon frame/fork $1,500 with a basic paintjob (one color) (FYI: Some paint jobs add $200 to the price of a frame...I don't need all of that!)
Make it with:
- Round seatpost
- 74 degree head and seat tubes
- 30-34mm offset fork
- 50mm BB drop
- Strong rear triangle and BB area.
- Long rear dropouts made with replaceable Ti plates
- Ridiculously stiff.
- Retail Price for carbon frame/fork $1,500 with a basic paintjob (one color) (FYI: Some paint jobs add $200 to the price of a frame...I don't need all of that!)
Last edited by taras0000; 01-02-15 at 01:39 AM.