Trainer for standing starts/sprints
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Front wheel lift as you describe is often a symptom of still being too far back. This is where you need to be for the first few pedal strokes, with the weight over the rear wheel, but as your speed increases, you need to even out the weight distribution. Shoot some video of yourself from the infield and take not of your position between front and rear wheels during your start. Compare to video of elites and see how you differ.
Frame to small causing skipping is because the front center is too short and you end up leaning over the front wheel too much, threreby taking weight off the back wheel.
Frame to small causing skipping is because the front center is too short and you end up leaning over the front wheel too much, threreby taking weight off the back wheel.
Awesome, thanks. All makes a bunch of sense
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Notice the grip position above the axle.
1) Maybe try a longer stem (2cm?)
2) Maybe you can have a aluminum or steel bike made that matches the LOOK L96's geometry. For a rider of your size, a steel frame will be just as stiff as super high-end carbon. The crazy thing is, if you got an L96, it will likely be too light in XXS and you'd have to ad lead to it to make it 15lbs (UCI minimum weight). If you made it from steel, it would be right at 15lbs. I'm not saying you need a new frame (I don't think you do). But, you have options
I used to coach a rider that rode small frames and she had a steel track bike that was barely 15lbs.
#61
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I try to hold right into the hook/ bend, but prolly still not ideal. I've thought of going 650c.. although that might make the hard task of finding track gear just a little more challenging :-/
The Tieymeyer Calculator puts me at a 522 top tube, but i suspect that is effective tt. Oh and also a shorter seat tube (ha!) and a slacker head-angle of 72.5 deg..
The Tieymeyer Calculator puts me at a 522 top tube, but i suspect that is effective tt. Oh and also a shorter seat tube (ha!) and a slacker head-angle of 72.5 deg..
And how is your flexibility? Would you be able to stretch out to the difference the Tiemeyer puts you at?
I second Carlton's suggestion of mocking up an L96 in steel, or going a similar route.
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Is your 510mm measured along the axis of the tube, or along a level line from where the head tube and top tube intersect, to center of seatpost?
And how is your flexibility? Would you be able to stretch out to the difference the Tiemeyer puts you at?
I second Carlton's suggestion of mocking up an L96 in steel, or going a similar route.
And how is your flexibility? Would you be able to stretch out to the difference the Tiemeyer puts you at?
I second Carlton's suggestion of mocking up an L96 in steel, or going a similar route.
510mm is the effective TT length (level line). I'm pretty flexible, and my previous frame had a slightly longer TT and really was too long.
The comments in this thread have been useful though, thanks for the various input.
my coach used to build bikes; wonder if he can be convinced to make one more ;-)
This is one of his frames from years ago, refurbished:
Anyway, I digress - I've been trying to move my weight very slightly forward in my standing starts, but without really 'leaning' more on the bars, and it is works very well for both the rear wheel skip and the front wheel lift, when i get it just right.
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cmorg21
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06-19-12 05:35 AM