Speaking of lace up shoes, has anyone experimented with different lacing styles? I used to just criss-cross like standard shoes, then switched to criss-cross with a lock lace, but now I'm tempted to try this style of ladder lace to see if it'll conform to my foot better: The Ladder Lacing: Variant Two

How many extra watts do you get from those socks? :D

One more question for you guys. I'm running a 44x16 gearing on my bike. I'm pretty good at controlling my cadence. However, is this gonna make it impossible to keep up with my group? Sorry for the newb questions....

What group? I've raced 48/16 and won(beginner classes), I've also raced 50/13 and felt spun out most of the race. I would think 44x16 would be pretty small for most racing, but if you're talking about beginner nights or intro classes then it's fine

It would be a "beginner" racing group for a racing series. I did a 6 lap scratch race on a beginner night and placed 5th out of 11. Everyone else was running bigger gears. However, I don't know exactly who is going to be racing on the actual series night. I don't want to have too much confidence then fail outrageously.

44/16 is pretty small for racing. Thats about the size we run out 'learn the track' on. Of course it all depends on the track, type of racing, etc. Getting a 15t on the rear would be an easy jump, or get a 48 for the front.

Thanks for the input. I use my bike as a road bike so I had to keep a gear I could run safely. I actually just ordered a 14t and I will adjust the chain. I've used the rental bikes that are 48x15 and the change doesn't bother my legs much.

Felt's website states the TK3/2 have "cast steel surfaces" on the dropouts. Any reason "cast steel" wouldn't hold up to wheel removal/install/tightening over time?

I'm not well versed in metallurgy.

Because the serrations or knurling on the track nuts, when tightened, can exert localized stresses (deformations) that are above the yield point flat steel. This is desirable to prevent wheel slip. Many bikes use replaceable steel plates to protect the frame material at the drop outs.

this

That's what those are! Thanks Carleton.

Here's a race that took place at my local velo this last season. I don't quite understand what's happening. Why did the woman do what she did? There were no head games and just as she started sprinting she gave up.

Also, aren't match sprints three laps?

Also also, is it just me or is her saddle way too far forward..?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNPU...U4w0w&index=52

This is a bad example of match sprinting in general.

1) It's newbie racing (at least by the rider in blue)
2) Maybe the rider in blue was tired (no turbo boost left)
3) Maybe the rider in blue knew she wouldn't win so just cruised for the loss in order to be fresh for the losers bracket (legit strat)

Yes, her bike fit is awful.

Further, on longer tracks, match sprints can be limited to 2 laps.

Also, on a flat-ish track like Kissena, it usually comes down to a drag race being that there aren't any bankings to work for a heigh or momentum advantage. In a drag race, usually the stronger rider wins.

Hah, you know the velo without me mentioning which one it was. Have you been?

Ok, thanks for the info. From watching more videos a lot of the match sprint races here are drag races.. kind of boring.

^"New York State" in the video title kind of gives it away.

Hahaha, no I've never been, but I've seen lots of photos from there. Lots of really fast riders have come from Kissena over the years.

+1

I notice a lot of entry-level racers doing things without knowing why: "You've got the best sprint in the field - what were you doing on the front with 3 laps to do?" "Uh... I dunno..."

Or, "That's a miss and out. Why'd you attack?" "uh... you know... i don't know."

Some races can look kind of confusing because inexperienced races aren't sure what to do, when.

(also, some sprints are drag races because speed is the best tactic. also some are drag races but there's a ****load of tactical maneuvers happening that are subtle and hard to see for people who aren't elite sprinters)

Hell, that's still my strategy most of the time.

I've been looking at narrow bars (36cm) and was about to buy the nitto b125aa. But then I saw the Alpina 33cm sprint bars are on sale and with just slightly more $$$ and less weight and a preferred 31.8mm diameter, I'm still wondering whether they are a good fit for me, width-wise. My favourite disciplines are sprint but since racing around here is rare (at least for my age bracket and non-elite level) I'm also doing lots of distance at the track because that's what everyone else does with 50+ people there. Will I hate the 33cm for endurance work or should I be okay?

What size Tshirt do you wear? Mens medium, Women's medium etc..? to get a feel for how wide you are.

I'm 5'7" (174cm), 170lbs (77kg) and wear a loose-fit, european Men's Large

Edit: I've been riding a bit with a 36cm deda bar whose width was comfortable

I'd say give them a shot. I've used them in the past and I wear a US XL tshirt. Standing starts feel weird...but, you'll get used to them. I actually used them for a Kilo once in place of aerobars. My time was 1" off of my PB. So, they work :D

i like the 33's... But I also ride Crits on 36's