queerpunk

the flip side of this is that it positions your front axle to ding your disc right outside of the hub. non-offset ones can be a tricky but they stack the two wheels axle-to-axle which helps protect them from each other.

my buddy mark has a big, round piece of thick tough vinyl or something. he may have even gotten it from zipp. he puts one on each side of the zipp, there's a hole for his hub, and it protects the surface of the disc.

Soil_Sampler

SuperMoto!

MarkWW

yeah, I protect the surface of my discs with these guys:
Zipp - Speed Weaponry | Accessories | Accessories | Disc protector board set

For $25 a set, it's probably the cheapest thing zipp makes. I don't know why they don't just include them in the purchase of a disc.

Higher Class

Here's a stupid one:

Should I sell my frameset in favor of a frame with steeper, more track-specific geometry?

Current frameset: Cinelli Vigorelli. Purchased new (last year's model) on a whim at a fantastic price. It has a very similar geometry to a road racing bike, but with shorter chainstay/wheelbase. The HT/ST angles are 73/73.5 respectively.

I'm all for the "ride what ya got" motto, but seeing as this thing only has 100 or so miles on it and it's a pretty expensive frame, I could stand to make a slight profit by ditching it for something cheaper. Not so much the case after racing it.

taras0000

If you're looking for a track specific bike, to be used only for track racing, then the "sell for something steeper" option is a viable route. I would say it's dependant on fit. If your body type necessitates a slacker seat tube (longer femurs), then it might be a good bike to keep. Is it an XL model? That one has the angles you listed above. If you find that the handling is sluggish, you can reduce the trail by putting a fork on it with more offset. It's not ideal, as in having a steeper HTa with a tighter fork, but it will quick the steering input a little bit. The only problem with this solution is that the wheelbase gets longer at greater lean angles when you turn. Great for road bikes (feels like you're cornering on rails), but makes for some interesting slow speed maneuvering on the track. It's only really noticeable if you've got quite a bit of experience riding sprint geometry bikes. For a beginner, you might not notice at all.

I would start with figuring out your ideal fit (great place to start - Tiemeyer Cycles, Inc. :: Custom Bicycle Frame Builder).
Then figure out how invested you'll be in track racing, and what type of racing you want to do. Let those two things determine if the bike is right for you and what to do with it.

Higher Class

yes

I've asked this question a few other places and your response has been by and large the most helpful and thought-provoking. Thank you.

queerpunk

No need unless you don't like the bike. Your Vigorelli has track-specific geometry. Some people prefer the 74-degree angles and accompanying low-rake forks that tend to be found on spring bikes, but well-designed track bikes can have a range of angles.

Not the Slowest

Saw this before your post Mark at the Zipp site and that is perfect. However I went a similar way and purchased (Amazing Savings) a padded mat
48" x 96" (aprox) that one would use in a car garage work area but I have used before as a trainer mat. It's about 2.5x as thick as a yoga mat and cost me $16.00 with tax.
Traced the wheel and wallah I have a very serious pair of disk protectors and enough to make another to protect one side. I guess if I was careful I could of gotten 2 sets from the mat. I'll post pics later.
So I have put this for now in a single wheel bag.

Lunchbox27

If one were to sell a bunch of track stuff where in this forum would one post

taras0000

Classifieds section, unless you're just willing to trade for other things, there is a trading equipment thread in the Track subforum. If you are on facebook, then you can try here as well - https://www.facebook.com/groups/buyi...gtrackcycling/

Lunchbox27

Ok thanks. Wasn't sure if there was just a track only classifieds on here

Huskey

Does anyone have any recommendations of where I can get some decent skinsuits online, without breaking the bank?
I don't mind spending money on quality gear, but when it comes to clothing I'm not risking a few hundred $'s to end up with the wrong size or poor quality.
I'd buy local but most lbs have no idea when it comes to track cycling and only stock their own branded skinsuits for TT's. Other than that I can wear the club kit (what I normally wear at events), but it looks terrible.

I've found this --> wiggle.com.au | Castelli Velocissimo Sanremo Suit | Lycra Cycling Shorts
which seems to be what I'm after, but its out of stock pretty much all the time and the yellow one only comes in xxl.
I've tried using the googles but I can only find $400+ fishet speedsuits or $20 ebay knock offs.

WhatsYoCadence

What's the deal with that new velodrome in PA? Indoor and wooden with 45 degree banks!? . Anyone raced there?

700wheel

Your post made me do a search and found this:
Facility | Island 200 Velodrome

Unless they hold the Masters Nationals there I doubt if I will ever ride it.

taras0000

The one that's questionably under construction?

brawlo

Check out Sprint Designs for some colourful and plain options SprintDesign® | Cycle and Triathlon Clothing Store | Cycle Wear

gtrob

If you are referring to the pittsburg 200 its been simultaneously "almost ready" and a "barely broken ground" for about 3 years.

Dalai

Not sure what size you are after, but I've been using UNO skinsuits for a number of years. Reasonable at RRP $99, now only $30 each; I bought 5 more pairs earlier this year when they were even cheaper at only $20 a pair!!

Tornado skinsuit for cycling by UNO

wens

Don't forget that nobody can give an estimated completion date for the Pittsburgh track. I'm assuming that project is dead until I'm convinced otherwise by the track opening and people riding it.

JimiMimni

Couple small questions:

Is there a trend toward running HUGE gears all the time? The cat that has been winning everything consistently in my field is turning a 98" for everything. I heard some guys racing in the P1-3 race talking about pushing 100+" in mass start races. Just curious.

Do you guys have a preference about which side to drop the chain when changing rings? I was watching various techniques today and could see benefits to both.

queerpunk

Hmmmm.... there's definitely a trend toward bigger gears for both sprinters and enduros, but that's mostly restricted to high level. In local 1/2 racing I still see plenty of 90 and 92" use, though for more competitive racing, bigger gears come into play for sure.

Chain side - I drape it over the bit of BB shell that is between the downtube and the crank. Otherwise it would just dangle off the bike and get on the ground and whatnot.

Bulldogsprinter

I must admit I use quite long gears. 98" as man one in team sprint, Keirin anything from 104" to 114" (if I where to race an indoor velodrome might use even longer), done match sprints with 99" and still have a really good jump. Still trying to find the sweet spot for flying 200s, too high and top speed is low and too low I run out of steam. With big gears my speed holds better during the 200, but I have a harder time getting atop of the gear.

gtrob

100 is pretty big for a longer mass start race. That means if it dips below 40kmh you are stuck below 90rpm, which is pretty low to respond quickly.

that said if I know its going to be a fast race, 45+ the whole time with a lot of 55+ attacks, Ill go big like 98in which means Im at 110rpm during the fast stuff, 130rpm during sprints which is where I like to be. If you rather cruise at 120rpm and sprint at 150, then go smaller for the same speeds.

Something like elite nationals scratch, yup ill go 102in. Something like tuesday night racing with local bums, probably stay low 90s. We even limit some of those nights to 90in just to keep the speeds reasonable.

Ohbejoyful

Hi friends, small question here: I'll be getting certified at Rock Hill next week and hope to partake of the fall Friday night racing series.

The wheelset that I currently have on my road-oriented track bike is a 36h f/r H+Son with DA-7600 hubs and 23mm Gatorskins. I also have a 60mm tubular front from my road racing wheelset. Lastly, by way of setup, I could get a good deal on a Boyd track wheelset, either 90/90 or 90/disc.

So my question is this: what should I run on the track as a beginner racer? I have reason to believe that I'll be decent at it, enjoy it, and stick with it, so snagging the Boyds is tempting and the 36h clinchers are surely slow as heck, though I also don't want to be that guy who's a fully-kitted noob.

(I already have a skinsuit, good crankset, etc.)

Thanks for your time!

queerpunk

as a beginner racer, run whatchu got - though you might want different tires.

right now, your money is best spent on racing and training as much as you can - and personally i think you should wait until you can be a bit more certain in your ability and the ability of those around you to introduce expensive wheels into the equation.

when you're ready - which is to say, whenever you feel like it - get some carbon tubulars, if you want to. everything you can get is pretty aero, a rear disc isn't necessary (spoked wheels are easier to travel with, if that's a concern), and personally i prefer 60mm wheels to 90mm wheels for outdoor racing.