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  1. #1
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    Removing old tubbie glue down to bare rim

    Kill me now, is there a good way to do this?

    I'm putting new tires on my track training wheels, and I've had to switch glues from Panacement to Vittoria Mastik 1 as Panacement seems to have become unavailable in the US. I knew I was gonna have to do this sooner or later.

    I have actually never done this job before, and **** me that glue does not want to leave! I started off by attacking it with a brass brush on a drill, but that was surprisingly ineffective and seemed to be taking as much of the rim material (Araya Gold's) as the glue. I then sat down with a rag and a can of acetone. If I continued that way I'd be elderly and divorced by the time I was finished.

    Suggestions? I've assumed it's necessary to remove all the glue as I'm switching, but maybe it's not? Help.
    Last edited by Baby Puke; 02-08-14 at 03:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Quinn8it's Avatar
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    I just did 4 sets of wheels last season- as I switched from Continental to Mastik 1..

    The best thing I found was "Vm&P Naptha"
    http://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-VM.../dp/B001G9TGQI

    This stuff works better than all the other solvents I've tried (orange degreaser, acetone...)
    The issue is they are not bringing it into California anymore. My Home Depot had some on hand- so once I realized how amazing this stuff was I went back and stocked up.. I'm on my last can now..

    The way I got the best results was:
    Put a lot of it on a rag- with the wheel in a truing stand turn the wheel while wiping with the rag.
    I found it went better if I didn't scrub super hard in one spot- but just keep the rag soaked and apply pressure while spinning the wheel..

    Once it starts to dissolve- focus on smaller areas....

    You need to wipe the rim with acetone after, since the Naptha leaves a residue..

    I'd say it takes about 25minutes a wheel- not really hard work... But it's time consuming.

  3. #3
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    On metal rims a heat *** can soften the glue so it wipes off. Then chemicals to do the final cleanup with chemicals. If you are just cleaning excess the remainder is usually a nice thin layer ready for new layers.
    For acetone laying a soaked rag on the rim lets it soak into the glue before evaporating.

    The heat *** and acetone soak are both questionable on carbon rims.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys.

    Any thoughts on combining the old Panacement with the new Mastik 1?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Quinn8it's Avatar
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    Don't

  6. #6
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    Dammit.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Quinn8it's Avatar
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    I look to Matchsprint@FGF for pretty much all technical/mechanical issues..

    he recommended the Naptha and he recommends not mixing glue..

    find the Naptha.. its the only way to go

  8. #8
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    How about on carbon? The race wheels will need this eventually.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Quinn8it's Avatar
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    same

    of the wheels i did last season- 1 set was aluminum the others were carbon

  10. #10
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    Seems like naphtha is basically gasoline. Anybody use that? This is getting fun. <eye roll>

  11. #11
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    Why didn't I think of this before? WD-40= 60-80% naphtha!

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

    Edit: Naphtha also seems to pretty much be lighter fluid. I think you'll be ok after your stash runs out, Quinn.
    Last edited by Baby Puke; 02-09-14 at 12:42 AM.

  12. #12
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    Lacquer thinner works well but extended use will result in a second head growing. Tip is to get the slow thinner which evaporates a bit slower.

  13. #13
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    Front wheel done. WD-40 is not a magic bullet. Used a screw driver to scrape off the majority (there was a lot of build-up), then it was a hand-held wire brush alternating with a scotchbrite pad between applications of WD-40 via rag. Finished up with three acetone cleanings, then applied base layer of glue. That took a good 3 hours. Much less build up on the rear wheel so hopefully that won't take as long. Jeez.Lesson to others: Start with Mastik from the get go!

  14. #14
    JMR
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    My brother is a mechanic... I take the wheels to him and he uses a high speed air grinder tool with a soft (copper) brush head on it to get the glue off.

    Comes off like butter! You have to be careful not to go down the side of the rim though... it'll take decals off or leave a good mark down the side.

    JMR

  15. #15
    Senior Member Quinn8it's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
    Front wheel done. WD-40 is not a magic bullet. Used a screw driver to scrape off the majority (there was a lot of build-up), then it was a hand-held wire brush alternating with a scotchbrite pad between applications of WD-40 via rag. Finished up with three acetone cleanings, then applied base layer of glue. That took a good 3 hours. Much less build up on the rear wheel so hopefully that won't take as long. Jeez.Lesson to others: Start with Mastik from the get go!
    Sounds way harder than it should be.

  16. #16
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    Seemed that way too!

    I need this done now or I'd go hunt for legit naphtha. They don't have it at my local hardware store.

  17. #17
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quinn8it View Post
    Sounds way harder than it should be.
    It is harder than it should be, but since that's the way it is, maybe it's fair to say that it should be that hard. Circular reasoning, I know.

    I think removing glue isn't really important until the buildup is so thick that you fear that it will come apart under tension or pressure. I don't know when that is. Has anyone ever had that happen?
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    It is harder than it should be, but since that's the way it is, maybe it's fair to say that it should be that hard. Circular reasoning, I know.

    I think removing glue isn't really important until the buildup is so thick that you fear that it will come apart under tension or pressure. I don't know when that is. Has anyone ever had that happen?
    The concern is that certain glues are chemically incompatible with other glues. It's difficult to know when this is the case, so it's safer to just remove it all when you are switching glues, as I am now. I have seen incompatibilities before, notably with Soyo glue.

  19. #19
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Well, that's a scary thought. What happened with Soyo glue?
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    Well, that's a scary thought. What happened with Soyo glue?
    Nothing bad, actually. While living in Japan I was given a pile of basically new pro keirin take-offs, all of which had been glued on with Soyo. When I'd get a flat and put on another one, I noticed that the spots where the old Soyo had stayed stuck to the base tape had not stuck on well to the rim bed (I was using Panacement). But I never had an issue. The tires were on good.

    Those keirin tires were sweet! Very light, no coating on sidewalls, fat and lively. I miss them. Funky old british valve was a pain, though.

  21. #21
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    It sounds like you're saying the glue could have separated from the rim if you had done something, but I don't completely follow. Do you think it could have happened if you had used a continuous coating of the glue?

    So far, I haven't seen any reports of glue coming undone due to a thick buildup. Has anyone?
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
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    Employer: Larry's Freewheeling, 301 W 110 St, New York, NY 10026
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  22. #22
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    Again, different issue.

  23. #23
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Maybe I didn't word my question well. Who has had a problem of any sort from excessive buildup?
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Employer: Larry's Freewheeling, 301 W 110 St, New York, NY 10026
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  24. #24
    Senior Member Quinn8it's Avatar
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    I said "it sounds harder than it should be"
    because with an optimal solvent this job took me 30min and not much muscle.. As apposed to 3hrs..

    as for combining different glues-
    the issue is not about "build up" it's about the glue on the tire not adhering to the glue on the rim..

  25. #25
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    If you apply glue to both tire and rim, won't the two layers stick together?
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Employer: Larry's Freewheeling, 301 W 110 St, New York, NY 10026
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

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